E30 M52
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So what you're saying is we should definitely expect to see this beast at Cars and Coffee on Saturday !
2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
2007 Z4MR
2003 E39 M5
2002 E46 M3
2021 X5 40i -
Condensation on the oil cap is not abnormal. Get the real gauge hooked up before worrying, the stock one is useless. Was the engine from a wrecked car or unknown? If you know it was from a wrecked car I consider that a good thing because it was likely driving fine when an accident happened.
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Take a deep breath. These are minor hiccups. You're at the finish line!
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Died @ the temp gun. I would say 99.8% that your gauge is lying. I experienced the same problem way back when I got my vert. Bad ground or SI batteries.
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🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
A couple years ago I replaced the SI Batteries and cleaned/tightened/re-flowed solder on the gauges. I dont think the battery replacement did anything and that perhaps the SI board itself is bad. As long as my speedometer, tach, and gas gauge work im fine although I need to re-fix the odometer gears. I need to swap in a spare odometer because I think the motor on mine may be burned out.
Gameplan:
Finish connecting the VDO temp gaugeRun a manual over-ride switch to the fan for actual emergencies
Go for a proper shakedown run.
If everything checks out I will drive it to work tomorrow. (30-40 min with stop and go traffic)
Next items on the never-ending list:
-oil dipstick tube mounting bracket
-Shim drivers side engine mount for better booster clearance
-Some ride height leveling with spring pads
-Alignment
-New brakes
-Wire fog lights (still need to find some connectors)
-Install HIDs
- 'is' rear spoiler
-Fix odometer
-Oil distribution block
-New steering wheel
-New front sway bar links (AFAIK they are original, I should have changed them out when I did the sway bars)
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So what you're saying is we should definitely expect to see this beast at Cars and Coffee on Saturday !
Is this the Watertown one?
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A couple years ago I replaced the SI Batteries and cleaned/tightened/re-flowed solder on the gauges. I dont think the battery replacement did anything and that perhaps the SI board itself is bad. As long as my speedometer, tach, and gas gauge work im fine although I need to re-fix the odometer gears. I need to swap in a spare odometer because I think the motor on mine may be burned out.
Gameplan:
Finish connecting the VDO temp gaugeRun a manual over-ride switch to the fan for actual emergencies
Go for a proper shakedown run.
If everything checks out I will drive it to work tomorrow. (30-40 min with stop and go traffic)
Next items on the never-ending list:
-oil dipstick tube mounting bracket
-Shim drivers side engine mount for better booster clearance
-Some ride height leveling with spring pads
-Alignment
-New brakes
-Wire fog lights (still need to find some connectors)
-Install HIDs
- 'is' rear spoiler
-Fix odometer
-Oil distribution block
-New steering wheel
-New front sway bar links (AFAIK they are original, I should have changed them out when I did the sway bars)
You can do it
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P_Roloff said:
Did you end up driving it to work today?
DOH! someone followed up with last nights goals!
No, I didn't and I feel bad because a guy at work brought donuts in thinking I would bring it (he is a BMW guy and is excited to see it)
I had some family things to do last night, so as soon as those were done I spent from 8P-10P in the garage working on some wiring
-Repaired the 12V outlet that had stopped working some years ago.
-Bypassed the window circuit breaker switch and recommissioned it to be a fan manual override switch
-Moved the VDO coolant gauge to the far right spot so its in better view since when it was in the far left spot my hand/steering wheel blocked its view and now that it is the primary coolant gauge I need to see it easily at all times.
-Completed the connection from the VDO temp sender in the head to the gauge.
Tonight I have between 5p-7p to button it up and test it out. I really just need to run one more wire through the firewall , put the HVAC panel back together, and try it out. As long as the temperatures stay below 200F on my test drive I will be taking it to work tomorrow.
. After that its just worrying about scraping and ripping my exhaust off on unexpected bumps.
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After that its just worrying about scraping and ripping my exhaust off on unexpected bumps.
i really want to be in the car with you the first time you make solid contact with your skid plate.
you:
Dan
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No, I didn't and I feel bad because a guy at work brought donuts in thinking I would bring it (he is a BMW guy and is excited to see it)
You have an awesome coworker!
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DOH! someone followed up with last nights goals!
No, I didn't and I feel bad because a guy at work brought donuts in thinking I would bring it (he is a BMW guy and is excited to see it)
I had some family things to do last night, so as soon as those were done I spent from 8P-10P in the garage working on some wiring
-Repaired the 12V outlet that had stopped working some years ago.
-Bypassed the window circuit breaker switch and recommissioned it to be a fan manual override switch
-Moved the VDO coolant gauge to the far right spot so its in better view since when it was in the far left spot my hand/steering wheel blocked its view and now that it is the primary coolant gauge I need to see it easily at all times.
-Completed the connection from the VDO temp sender in the head to the gauge.
Tonight I have between 5p-7p to button it up and test it out. I really just need to run one more wire through the firewall , put the HVAC panel back together, and try it out. As long as the temperatures stay below 200F on my test drive I will be taking it to work tomorrow.
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That’s an excellent idea, wiring the window lock to the fan. I hope you don’t mind if I copy the idea lol, I’ve currently got the fan wired to a toggle under the dash but I really don’t like reaching under there every time I want it on.
I might’ve missed it earlier, but where are your auxiliary gauges at?
Hope the test drive goes well!
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I might’ve missed it earlier, but where are your auxiliary gauges at?
Who needs radio?!?
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Want me to get you one?
I have been fighting whether to put a nice 6 button OBC back in that spot, a clock, or a blank plate (booo)
let me know what you can get them for. I may be interested, I think it would need to have a harness pigtail too
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Shakedown run:
Coolant temp on VDO=GOOD! temp stayed between 190-200F, given it wasnt a hot day and it wasnt a hard drive, but im not concerned with it anymore until a hard run on a hot day I guess.
The bad news: that cutting out issue happened and kept getting worse and is now debilitating. It stalled the car while driving once, gave me zero throttle response multiple times with a light lean pop out the exhaust, and I had to pull over twice until I had enough luck for it to start responding again.
It wouldnt accelerate anymore and I had to pop the hood and disconnect the MAF sensor to regain enough response to get the car back home.
Its not a mechanical issue because it runs perfectly when its not doing this.
My guess is that the used MAF I picked up is no good.
I have a spare TPS to try and Saturday I will try another testfahrt with the other TPS. (Im not expecting it to be the TPS but its a quick thing I can try)
Once it starts refusing to have throttle response I will unplug the O2 sensor and see how that goes. I honestly dont remember what car I bought it for (95 M3? 95 325i?) they really shouldnt be different.
Does anyone have a spare E36 OBD1 MAF I can try?
Im also going to email Sssquid and verify the MAF curve on this tune.
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