E30 M52

[GunMetalGrey]

Mmmmm. Tidy.
Throw the rest of the M3/318 wiring covers on and you've got a tasty looking bay sir!

[m42b32]

That looks great!!

[Earl]

Still in awe that there are 24 valves under that hood

[B C]

GunMetalGrey said:

Mmmmm. Tidy.

Throw the rest of the M3/318 wiring covers on and you've got a tasty looking bay sir! 

Yep, still figuring out how it all needs to be trimmed.

For sure the diagnostic connector hole and the clearance for the manifold, but the uncertainty lies mostly with the main harness connector

[KaiserRolls]

The c101 should fit under the cover

[B C]

I tried the new mounting hole that comes with the cover but that doesnt fit nicely. I will need longer screws to use the stock c101 mounting bracket

[Boris3]

m42b32 said:

That looks great!!

Agreed!!

[B C]

I gave the ol google machine a whirl on cosmoline removal and its comical how many things are claimed to work but dont and everyone’s secret tricks from the gun world

“My granpappy has the secret recipe: ya gotta mix kerosene with marvel mystery oil and acetone and then put it in a garbage bag covered for a few hours, then fire up a steam cleaner and then soda blast it, then it will come right off!” Etc.

I ended up throwing the covers in the dishwasher then when i pulled them out, spent an hour or so with Goof Off, paper towels and elbow grease. As tedious as it was, I was able to get some results.

I think I prefer the look of the engine without the fuel rail cover so I will leave that one off.

I cut a hole in the wiring harness cover for the diagnostic connector and ran a nut and bolt through the battery tray for part of its mounting scheme. That section is now permanently mounted.

Looks like I will have to put a dang corset on the wiring bundle and get all the kings men to tighten it up because there is still some work to do before the main section of harness cover will fit.

[stealthbimmer]

That's a purty engine bay

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

[KaiserRolls]

KaiserRolls said:

The c101 should fit under the cover

I think I’m wrong

[KaiserRolls]

Also cover your nuts

[DrLeadFoot]

Snaps at 24 valves and I'm soon to be at 16 which is oddly setting up 2018 to be the BIGGEST, MOST GREATEST, HUGEST year of all the years combined ever in the history of history.

2018: Making E30s Drive AGAIN!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Jdesign]

[m42b32]

DrLeadFoot said:

Snaps at 24 valves and I'm soon to be at 16

You'll love the M42 swap! It's not too fast, but really fun to beat on

[DrLeadFoot]

m42b32 said:

DrLeadFoot said:

Snaps at 24 valves and I'm soon to be at 16

You'll love the M42 swap! It's not too fast, but really fun to beat on

Lol, can't wait!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[B C]

The wiring harness cover wasn’t meant to be. 2 of the 3 pieces will stay but the main front/center piece just needs more wire bending, squeezing, and smashing than I can feel good about. Braided split loom it is then.

This post from R3V makes me feel better about the struggle

I have also ordered a few misc bits such as the beauty cover nut covers, throttle linkage clip, new rear roundel, aaand the thickest available spring pads for the top and bottom on the rear springs just to give myself hopefully an extra 3/8” or so more height in the rear for a tiny bit more rake.

Not a lot left to do until exhaust parts and brake MC show up

[KaiserRolls]

Snap said:

The wiring harness cover wasn’t meant to be. 2 of the 3 pieces will stay but the main front/center piece just needs more wire bending, squeezing, and smashing than I can feel good about. Braided split loom it is then.

This post from R3V makes me feel better about the struggle

I have also ordered a few misc bits such as the beauty cover nut covers, throttle linkage clip, new rear roundel, aaand the thickest available spring pads for the top and bottom on the rear springs just to give myself hopefully an extra 3/8” or so more height in the rear for a tiny bit more rake.

Not a lot left to do until exhaust parts and brake MC show up

Condom motorsports makes some spring pad risers for the rear

[B C]

Good to know. This old rubber is pretty worn out and permanently deformed so I dont mind replacing it. That may be a next step though

[B C]

Figuring out some of the final details on the exhaust system....its the last significant task left on this swap before the car is drivable

Besides that its just installing the valence+hood and putting a few finishing touches on things

[B C]

In case anyone else here doing a 24v swap, either now or in the future needs a solution for the y-pipe, this is mine.

-Vibrant 10356 Y-pipe (SS), 2.25” ID inlets, 3.0” OD outlet

-Vibrant 63004 3” Flex pipe

-Summit Racing M18x1.5 SS O2 sensor bung (SUM-G2990SS)

-2.25” OD .120” wall (2.010” ID) mild steel DOM tubing

-2.00” OD .065” wall mild steel DOM tubing

-2.00” Band clamps (butt-joint)

-3” SS V-band flanges (piloted!!!)

The rest of the exhaust system is carried over from my turbo setup and is 3” stainless exhaust pipe, a 12” Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, Vibrant Streetpower muffler and actually because a 24v sounds like a bowl of raspberries I will be adding an additional 18” Vibrant bottle resonator.

The y-pipe is decently thin wall at .049” that isnt uncommon for exhaust tubing but considering that the inlets are nearly touching, getting a weld all the way around could be tricky. That isnt my main issue though. The main issue is the header outlets. They are 2.0” OD tubes but strangely one of them tapers down to 1.75” OD. I dont understand why.

I will be cutting the 1.75” section off so I can just have (2) 2” tubes to work with.

To adapt the Y-pipe inlets down from 2.25 ID to 2.0 OD I inserted the 2.25 OD .120 wall tubing in as far as I could (very snug fit, had to heat the y-pipe up in the oven a bit after deburring the edges to get them to slide together)

Once I did this I sawed the tubes flush (see the image below with one sawed off and one just about to be) and ground them smooth.

.

This leaves me with heavy wall inlets that are better for welding and has a 2.010” ID which allows me to telescope the tubes yet again by inserting the 2.0” OD .065 wall tube and weld all 3 tubes together with plenty of space to get a complete weld bead in the middle.

2.0” OD tube inside the y-pipe with the sawed off reducer (the edges are blended so it just looks like one heavy wall tube instead of the .049 wall y-pipe and .120 wall DOM tube together)

Next I will drill the hole for the O2 bung then crawl under the car to take some measurements, then I can drop by our favorite resident bass fisherman for some welding [emoji16]