Build Thread?

[GunMetalGrey]

Going to drain the coolant out of this and start taking the top end apart so I can replace the head gasket.
That's right, the head gasket. 

FMHG 

Will pull the whole motor on this one though. I don't remember why, but I'm going to.

[GunMetalGrey]

I made forward progress on this! 
I took the radiator out! Even if it was only to put it in another car, it was still one step in the right direction. At least that's what I'll keep telling myself!

[GunMetalGrey]

M42 radiator was removed to make way for the OEM + E36/E30 radiator. This will require me to relocate my oil cooler lines as they had been running under the expansion tank of the m42 radiator. I am looking forward to the increased cooling capacity of this radiator, and relocating the oil cooler to allow me space for a 16" spal pusher. 

Rear subframe was dropped in preparation for 12mm riser bushings. My camber was at a touch over 2.5 degrees as it sat before and I hope to reduce that slightly so when the car squats under power from the reworked power plant I don't lose all of my traction! 
 

I have also been working quite a bit on cleaning and rearranging the shop. It's quite nice!

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

I have also been working quite a bit on cleaning and rearranging the shop. It's quite nice!

This is a key requirement to efficiency. Once I mastered it I became 50% faster fixin stuffs.

[HipMF]

The key to efficiency is to never set anything down. Once I set something down there's going to be 5 minutes of me walking around the shop looking everywhere for it...

[patsbimmer1]

I've got a wooden cart on casters that my grandpa built decades ago that I use as an operating tray to hold the tools I need for the job and nuts and bolts I remove.  It's saved me a ton of time searching for tools!

[GunMetalGrey]

Reference for later
VANOS activation at 1600-1700 rpm and off at 5000 rpm.
Likely ground switched solenoid 
Pin 21 ECU 

Also Fuel load and RPM triggers must be met for it to turn on. <70% fuel load and within 1200-3800 RPM's

[B C]

Glad to assume you are wiring up the MS3 on this

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

Glad to assume you are wiring up the MS3 on this

Of course, I finally have a sort of base tune and need something to control the engine past atmospheric pressure!

[GunMetalGrey]

So I know we have been complaining about Garagistic lately so I figured I would post this for a bit of contrast. 
I order soft brake lines for this, as I will explain in a moment, and went with condor for reasons that I'm unaware of. They made the shipping label on a sunday which surprised me, and got delivered on thursday which was neat. 
Package contained a few extras

There was a steering wheel ad in there too which I didn't take a picture of, and their packaging was nice. Overall they do a great job in my experiences with them.

I was debating changing the brake lines on the rear end of the car (above the fuel tank / sub frame) while the sub frame was still on the floor. I asked a friend to come tell me what he thought about it and he asked me to point out which lines I was questioning. He then grabbed a side cutters out of his pocket and pinched the lines shut lol. 
In all honesty it was a very good thing, but was quite funny at the time. The lines were pretty crusty and the soft lines are quite old. Going to bend up some new hard lines tonight and get the sub frame back in the car with the new brake lines. 

I plan on doing the other lines when I replace the brakes, which I will probably do 2 days before a half mile race, along with painting the calipers and possibly rebuilding them.

[Earl]

Condor is a great company to deal with. I have had nothing but great experiences with them and their customer service. I've been told that Revshift actually machines their UHMW bushings for them but I'm not sure how valid that statement is.

[Jdesign]

someone said:

I asked a friend to come tell me what he thought about it and he asked me to point out which lines I was questioning. He then grabbed a side cutters out of his pocket and pinched the lines shut lol. 

This man earns a gold star for saving you from future brake failures. LOL

[m42b32]

I have had nothing but awesome experiences with Condor, I will definitely continue to order parts from them.

I will be replacing a number of my brake hard lines soon as well (they're fine, I just want to properly delete the ABS), what tool are you using to make the bubble flares?

[GunMetalGrey]

I have a flaring tool but it doesn't work well with US sized brake lines so I am hoping to find something close in size pre-flared at the parts store today.

[HipMF]

I have a spare piece somewhere that I bought for up north. If you can find it, you can use it.

[P_Roloff]

http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-front-to-rear-brake-lines-rear-hard-line-delete-82-91-bmw-e30/

No clue if it's a reputable company, but it's kinda intriguing.

[GunMetalGrey]

Picture of brake lines being replaced (after removal)

After about 3 hours I finally came up with this, and it was stupid. Though in the long run it will be worth it. 

After doing this I went to get the subframe back in and ran into the subframe lower plate (?) not lining up on the drivers side but being fine on the passenger side. Don't know why, and will be looking into it tomorrow.

[KaiserRolls]

Is the diff bolted up in that picture?

Or just say f it, drill new holes and send it home

[KaiserRolls]

(Jk)

[Daggerty]

GunMetalGrey said:

After doing this I went to get the subframe back in and ran into the subframe lower plate (?) not lining up on the drivers side but being fine on the passenger side. Don't know why, and will be looking into it tomorrow.

How long was it on the jack stands?