Build Thread?
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Kind of realizing that I should have went with High-Z injectors, but I got mine for an amazing price, but still had to pay for resistors and whatnot to drive them properly. Maybe I will make an upgrade to High-Z later, maybe with a bigger flow rate for some corn.
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This is the best list i have found, my injectors were luckily listed there. Otherwise random bits of info online from forum users with the same injectors
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As far as break in, what is the correct procedure?
For motorcycles, I always rode them hard and changed oil frequently.
Roommate just rebuilt his 2stroker. And then blew it up two hours later.
Just curious about your turbo'd break in procedure.
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Well I hate that I have to try to tune and break in at the same time.... I am following the "don't be gentle" break in. Load the engine, lots of engine breaking, lots of changing oil (20 miles, 50, 100, 200,500) and it worked very well for tims(deadskittles) fully built s52 so I am following that.
If I cannot get a better tune very quickly I will be dropping a stock harness and ecu and injectors on it (with MAF) to put 100 or so miles on it so I am not abusing the fresh engine.
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Just spent an hour working with tables and smoothing them and reducing them, and pulling more timing out. I did setup the VE analyze live so that I can use that to attempt to get closer and not screw it all up!
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How do I turn it off? I need to anyway for now, I lean out when it hits AE
There is no toggle button....
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I've always wondered how the, drive it like you stole it method for break in worked compared to the taking it easy. I know on the STi's it was a huge debacle. Some said go easy, others said to break it in like how you were going to drive it. I vote for beating it like a red headed step child method. How did you come to your method? Just going of skittles experience? Just curious!
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I was reading an article or two on it, there is a website based on breaking engines in. It makes a lot of good points on engine break in. I am pretty much just going on that. Works well on tims car too.
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http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/gunmetalgrey/th_VID_20140822_162626_968_zps47c5044e.mp4
Little sound clip for the kids, put some miles on yesterday but something just isn't right and I am working on figuring it out. I have way more timing than what I feel like I should, and when doing a "pull" it will feel hesitant, then pull very hard for about 1 second, then go back to being hesitant. Going to hit up the trigger logs, composite logs, because the standard data log didn't show anything odd going on.Β
At this point I am not scared to just mess with things, if the engine got ruined by the tune or not broken in correctly because of that it would have already had the damage done. In the grand scheme of things the engine isn't even expensive, maybe 500 dollars of a many thousand dollar build. It's just very discouraging to not have it working right.
One thing that I was expecting but hoping not to have to do is an oil cooler, after beating on it (staying in boost constantly) yesterday when we stopped the oil was at around 230 degrees. I can't be having that! Unfortunately a legitimate oil cooler setup will run me around $500, but gotta pay to play!
The hood will fit! Put the front lip on too! Have to modify a few things before I can bolt the hood down.
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So nice to see this car making good progress.
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Unfortunately the thing can't hold its fluids. I have a leak from the lower radiator hose, primary chain tensioner, and the diff that the guy said didn't leak leaves a six inch puddle every time I drive it. And of course the input seal is the culprit...
After driving for a bit I found I do need an oil cooler. 220 degree oil is not okay.
Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 2
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No, it wasn't you! Fear not sir Snap!
Its a 2.93 LSD as well
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220 degrees is about the oil temp my 135i stays at once fully warmed up... and it has a baby oil cooler. I know every 135i stays around 230 degrees.
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First link after Googling "average oil temperature" says,
Βsomeone said:
For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (waterβs boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.
As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps.
A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher.
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While I get the points they make in that, but I also have to look at a few other factors.Β
Hydraulic lifters need their oil, very hot oil results in low oil pressure thus starving the lifters
Holset states that max oil temp cannot exceed 245 degrees under any condition
This temperature was achieved after a session that was not too harsh, nor was it that long. I am not making any power right now (less power less heat) and when I finally get things figured out I will be making much more power resulting in higher temps all around.
Coking would also suck, because the turbo is oil cooled and I don't want to put in a new turbo yet.
Side note, the S54 and S52 euro both have oil coolers with a thermostat built into the oil filter housing, this thermostat is set to 180 degrees. I would assume they would not set the cooler up to be detrimental to the engine.
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M50 =/= N54.
Just throwing my possibly useful/useless info out there.
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