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  4. Possible e30 rear break upgrade

Possible e30 rear break upgrade

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  • straight6pwrS
    straight6pwrS
    straight6pwr
    wrote on last edited by
    #4

    saying the e30 rear brakes are under-powered is a bit of a internet myth.  with upgraded pads are very capable of locking up the brakes without much effort.

    however, if your rat rod is going to weigh more than a stock e30 its a good idea.  either way, I love creative ideas and will love to see this accomplished.

    Dan
    yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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    • m42b32M
      m42b32M
      m42b32
      wrote on last edited by
      #5

      Interesting idea! It definitely would be a nice option since there really isn't a 'cheap' rear brake upgrade. One thing I would recommend is using some sort of machined spacer/ring to take up the space between the rotor and the hub and properly center the rotor. If you just rely on the lugs you could get some nasty vibration because the rotor won't self center when you have a wheel attached

      1991 318is, 1991 318i, 2022 Bronco

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      • ThatRatRodProjectT
        ThatRatRodProjectT
        ThatRatRodProject
        wrote on last edited by
        #6

        m42b32 said:

        Interesting idea! It definitely would be a nice option since there really isn't a 'cheap' rear brake upgrade. One thing I would recommend is using some sort of machined spacer/ring to take up the space between the rotor and the hub and properly center the rotor. If you just rely on the lugs you could get some nasty vibration because the rotor won't self center when you have a wheel attached 

        I do agree with you on the locating. I believe I had mentioned that I would use the original hole to hold the rotor in location after the lugs are not in place. c5070f94e3eaa68c52bcd92e1ee0f848.jpg yes I will have to add the hole in the correct location

        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        • patsbimmer1P
          patsbimmer1P
          patsbimmer1
          wrote on last edited by
          #7

          I think he's talking about some kind of hub spacer.  Even using the screw to hold the rotor on won't guarantee it's centered correctly.  Honestly, you don't even need that screw in there if the rotor is hubcentric.  Those screws are usually only there for manufacturing purposes so it doesn't hit someone in the head going down the line.  GM uses virgin clips instead of the screw.

          2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

          07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

          97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
          95 325is *sold*
          93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

          BMWCCA #473306

          Instagram @patsbimmer1

          AKA- HALLWAY PAT

          "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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          • ThatRatRodProjectT
            ThatRatRodProjectT
            ThatRatRodProject
            wrote on last edited by
            #8

            patsbimmer1 said:

            I think he's talking about some kind of hub spacer.  Even using the screw to hold the rotor on won't guarantee it's centered correctly.  Honestly, you don't even need that screw in there if the rotor is hubcentric.  Those screws are usually only there for manufacturing purposes so it doesn't hit someone in the head going down the line.  GM uses virgin clips instead of the screw.

            Correct it won't guarantee that it's in the exactly the correct location but I feel confident that it would be with in + or - .010 which will be well within centered.

            I do also agree that the screw is not needed. And is mostly for the assembly line.

            But I was trying to think of options with doing a budget build. The rotor is only about .03 to .04 a side bigger on the hub where it locates so make a spacer would be extremely hard to manufacturer and to ensure that the spacer would be parallel and round. In the event that this does work. Haveing to make a spacer would increase the price of the swap.

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • B
              B
              B C
              wrote on last edited by
              #9

              Have a spacer made. That sort of mass 1/16" off kilter will make a notable vibration

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              • ThatRatRodProjectT
                ThatRatRodProjectT
                ThatRatRodProject
                wrote on last edited by
                #10

                straight6pwr said:

                saying the e30 rear brakes are under-powered is a bit of a internet myth.  with upgraded pads are very capable of locking up the brakes without much effort.

                however, if your rat rod is going to weigh more than a stock e30 its a good idea.  either way, I love creative ideas and will love to see this accomplished.

                They are not under powered but in track use the suffer from heat soke

                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwrS
                  straight6pwr
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #11

                  making a 'spacer' should be pretty easy. think of it as a shim. buy some steel strips of the correct thickness, cut to the correct length (circumference), then just tap it in.

                  Dan
                  yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                  • patsbimmer1P
                    patsbimmer1P
                    patsbimmer1
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #12

                    Fyi, maximum allowable runout is typically .002".

                    2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                    07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                    97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                    95 325is *sold*
                    93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                    BMWCCA #473306

                    Instagram @patsbimmer1

                    AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                    "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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                    • ThatRatRodProjectT
                      ThatRatRodProjectT
                      ThatRatRodProject
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #13

                      patsbimmer1 said:

                      Fyi, maximum allowable runout is typically .002".

                      Run out on the diameter or being true to its self

                      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      • jc43089J
                        jc43089J
                        jc43089
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #14

                        .002 would be side runout spec or axial runout.  Radial runout is not going to be that tight of a tolerance.  It would be easy to use feeler gauges around the hub and lock the assembly screw to hold it in place until the wheel is on.  You would easily be +/- .005 using feeler gauges.  Then you could verify axial runout with 2 lug bolts installed to make sure your rotors are in good shape.

                        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #15

                          Pulley-Runout.gif

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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