Hello. My name is Dan, and today I doomsday prepped
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has the zf310 w/2.93LSD - perfect combo. I had the zf310 w/3.25LSD in my m50 car, and it was great for that extra acceleration, but highway rpms were a bit much.
no power adders. exhaust is nice stainless headers + no cats, so it flows well but is way too loud. engine fan and ac deleted which helps free a couple ponies.
handles like a dream even on 185 snow tires, but didn't go too crazy as I just wanted to make it home in one piece. has a z3 steering rack w/power steering as well.
Dan
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Hooray for another s50 car!! I have the same trans/diff combo. The only thing it's good for is cruising, but it does it well. What kind of coilovers?
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Hooray for another s50 car!! I have the same trans/diff combo. The only thing it's good for is breaking axles, but it does it well. What kind of coilovers?
I fixed it for you.
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Stoked theres another E30 in the neighborhood. Congrats on the purchase.
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thanks guys, can't wait to have it driving around. it needs a couple things before I will be comfortable on Milwaukee streets (skid plate, quieter exhaust) but hopefully that can happen before snow hits.
the coilovers are BC. 6k/8k. it rides nice, but I need to tinker with heights, dampening, and I think it needs some shorter springs or better arrangement of all the strut components for better tire clearance (some rubbing presently with stock wheels/tires).
Dan
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parts starting to roll in, and found a parts car on craigslist with a nice seller who pulled some of the small bits for me.
brand new BMW front valance, can't believe the cheap price on these things ($200)
some of the random crap - most of this is actually completely missing on my car
oh, and in case you ever have the urge, yes an e30 hood will fit entirely inside the back of an e34 touring.
also scored a non-damaged alpine rear bumper (seen barely here)
Dan
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For serious those are $200?! I need a new one as mine is dented and rusted.
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a half day at work killed my fall drive today, but i was able to get a few things done on the car anyhow.
the front coil springs were rubbing all over the tire (stock weaves + 185 tires) so i knew something was wrong. turns out the spring perches were set wrong, or just spun down over time as they were just hand tight. well, there was a lot of crud there so I clean it up and spun the perches up another 1.5". i need to find out if BC offers the same spring with a shorter length, that would give even more tire clearance.
after
P.O. had some interesting taste....i pulled off a little on my road trip so I could actually see the trip meter, but had to finish this asap
much better!
The hood has been replaced/painted at some point, and I think without either version of the hood insulation it just looks unfinished. the guy parting an e30 that i bought some stuff from had a damaged hood so I was able to salvage the liner from it and amazingly not break any clips in the process. Before:
After:
The rear bumper had some damage, and I wasn't planning on addressing this till later on, but again the parts guy also had a alpine rear bumper so I jumped on it. The offensive bumper:
Nice and fresh bumper:
Lastly, I got rid of the 'is' skirts. I'm just not a fan on e30s. I like that the black rocker panels match the rear valance with the black on the bottom as well as the front 'is' lip which I will leave black. Now i just have to find a good shop to fill the holes for me.
Dan
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What I am seeing is you basically raised the front about an inch and a half to stop the perch from contacting the tires correct? Most coilovers make it almost impossibly to run stock wheels while being lowered so you need to slip a small spacer in to give the tire some breathing room.
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Shorter springs would most likely mean stiffer rates as well (?) I believe moving the perch also changes the preload on the fronts
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the BC coilovers have separate adjustment for the spring perch and the ride height. the spring perch should be set in one place based on the length of the spring and then left alone. in my case, someone had set it too low meaning the spring was loose between the upper mount and the perch.
if you look at the picture there is a collar on the bottom against the strut tube - you loosen this collar then you can spin the entire upper portion of the unit (spring, strut, perch) either in or out of the strut tube to lengthen or shorten the entire strut assembly, which raises or lowers the car. you get to keep full suspension travel and not add or remove preload no matter how high or low you are.
now, the lower you go you end up moving the spring and perch closer and closer to the hub, meaning possibly contacting the wheel/tire. to combat this, getting a shorter spring will let you lower the car more but keep the same clearances. the spring rates would be the same, but i would lose a little travel. i don't know if I will need to do this until I pick a wheel/tire combo. my goal is to plan the wheel/tire combo so I don't have any problems in the first place, but who knows.
Dan
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I know how it works as my airlift struts are the same concept
It just seems like someone had the car lowered by lowering the spring on the body instead of shortening the length of the assembly. Did you snug up the spring to the upper mount and then shorten the body to match the height it was at before?
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the BC coilovers have separate adjustment for the spring perch and the ride height. the spring perch should be set in one place based on the length of the spring and then left alone. in my case, someone had set it too low meaning the spring was loose between the upper mount and the perch.
if you look at the picture there is a collar on the bottom against the strut tube - you loosen this collar then you can spin the entire upper portion of the unit (spring, strut, perch) either in or out of the strut tube to lengthen or shorten the entire strut assembly, which raises or lowers the car. you get to keep full suspension travel and not add or remove preload no matter how high or low you are.
now, the lower you go you end up moving the spring and perch closer and closer to the hub, meaning possibly contacting the wheel/tire. to combat this, getting a shorter spring will let you lower the car more but keep the same clearances. the spring rates would be the same, but i would lose a little travel. i don't know if I will need to do this until I pick a wheel/tire combo. my goal is to plan the wheel/tire combo so I don't have any problems in the first place, but who knows.
Right. This is exactly how my fortune autos operate, with the bottom collar for adjusting ride height. The top two collars adjust pre load on the springs I believe, i understand those are not for ride height.
I think BCs awful translated crap wants like a 4-5mm preload on them so the spring doesn't flop around .
As far as different length springs, a higher spring rate will raise the maximum low ride height. I had this issue when trying to source a 12k option for the rear. I forget what your rates are but I'd keep it in mind so the car doesn't end up riding like crap if you change the rates and stuff
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I know how it works as my airlift struts are the same conceptB)
It just seems like someone had the car lowered by lowering the spring on the body instead of shortening the length of the assembly. Did you snug up the spring to the upper mount and then shorten the body to match the height it was at before?
This what you're referring to?
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good information there, thanks. i was getting a binding 'pop' sometimes so the loose spring was probably it!
so yes, I snugged to the springs to the upper mount, and gave it maybe 1/16" of preload (however tight I could do with my hand, as the PO did not have the coilover wrench with the car when I bought it). before i did this there was a gap of 1.5" between the spring and the perch. the picture doesn't show it because the spring falls down to the perch with the car lifted.
i didn't notice the car sitting higher due to giant snow tire sidewalls, but i guess this would have raised it.
Dan
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