Lifted E30 V2

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

Now more confused than before.
Collin measured his starter ring gear diameter on an M20 flywheel at a solid 11.5"
This means the m21 starter plate is actually smaller? Going to measure the E46 flywheel and see if it's the same. 
May end up just pulling the starter and making sure it is functioning correctly before taking things too far apart again.  

I bet the diesel starter is a lot different as it would need more torque to turn a higher compression diesel motor? I have had two starters in two different vehicles die in the last two months.

[straight6pwr]

not sure if this helps, but real oem confirms the flywheel and starter are specific to the diesel motor.

[GunMetalGrey]

I actually got a bit of time to work on this Sunday. 

I realized the M21 starter uses a larger diameter gear on the starter so I took a gas starter apart and the spare diesel starter apart in attempt to swap gears / heads but upon removal I found that the diesel starter uses a planetary gear reduction on the 3hp starter motor, whereas the 1hp gas starter motor is direct drive. Impressive stuff. 

I measured the E46 flywheel (that I had been using before) and found the starter ring gear diameter to be the same as the M21 ring gear. It seems odd that they used the ever slightly smaller ring gear diameter for the gas e46, but I guess it works. 

So I started prepping the motor to come back out so I can switch the flywheel/clutch back over to the e46 stuff. 
Guess I won't have a tach in the way I thought I would.

[GunMetalGrey]

Motor is sitting on the ground again. 
I seem to have lost a good bit of motivation on this thing. Hopefully once I get it running again the motivation shall return. 

Anyone have good ideas on how to drive a tach? I really want to use the stock tach yet.

[HipMF]

GunMetalGrey said:

Motor is sitting on the ground again. 
I seem to have lost a good bit of motivation on this thing. Hopefully once I get it running again the motivation shall return. 

Anyone have good ideas on how to drive a tach? I really want to use the stock tach yet.

Shouldn't be too hard. I can rig something up for you.

[YoungCR]

On my suburban the 6.5 diesel tach is run off of the stator output terminal in the voltage regulator.

[Jdesign]

Yeah. It should just be a signal wire from the ignition or charging system. I assume you could use a pick up sensor if need be.

The Auto Meter 2888 and 3788 diesel tachs will work out of the box using a small inductive pickup strapped to the alternator.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhLPAPZxNsM

[GunMetalGrey]

Thanks for the options! I'd love to keep the stock tach if possible, but if not I may go that route.

Made big progress last night. Took the starter off!

[GunMetalGrey]

Put the new motor in last night, but need to open the pump again as it clicks occasionally. Need to determine if that was from my previous work or it was that way when I bought it. 

Old motor got jealous and created a scene. 

[SteelBlue]

What phone do you have again? Either your lighting is really good or the phone has a great camera. Probably a combination of the two. The M3 diff just pissed all over my garage floor as well.

[GunMetalGrey]

SteelBlue said:

What phone do you have again? Either your lighting is really good or the phone has a great camera. Probably a combination of the two. The M3 diff just pissed all over my garage floor as well.

Pixel
The camera does rock, the shop lighting is odd.

[Jdesign]

Yussss

[GunMetalGrey]

Took fuel pump out to diagnose clicking, opened fuel pump, found nothing weird. 

Put pump back together and figured I'd fill it with fuel and see if the clicking stopped. 
Put it back in the car, hooked up the fuel line, got air out, and rotated it. It stopped clicking after a few turns. Cool.

Then it started pouring fuel everywhere again. The nose seal was dumping fuel out of it. 
Disconnected the fuel line, pulled the nose seal, found that the rebuild kit I bought has the wrong sized seal, then lit the rags on fire that were soaking up the diesel.

Until next time. 

I totally took out the other pump too, need to bring that to the shop in GB to have them check it again after having paid them $650 and giving me a pump that still didn't work after they had said it was fine while on their test bench.

[Jdesign]

Seriously? 

WHAT

THE

FUCK.

I would be beyond frustrated.

[YoungCR]

Yeah that’s infuriating. If they won’t back their work then see if Badger Diesel is willing to work on it. They list VW idi injection pump rebuilds on their site for $400. I have over 10k miles on a rebuilt pump from them with no issues.

[GunMetalGrey]

Alright, it seems like there is slight confusion on what pumps are having problems, which is understandable lol.

The leaking pump is the pump that came from the e28 I recently bought, I knew it was leaking fuel, but thought that seal was fine. It wasn't. 
I ordered some standard rotary seals instead of the fancy $20+ bmw part number, because they're the same thing. I likely will have one tonight to the tune of $3. 

I dropped off the pump that I had bought on ebay "rebuilt" (20 years ago) at the shop yesterday, the ones that bench tested it and said it was fine, but didn't work when I tried it. He is going to open it up and see if anything is sticking and test it again. I made it clear that I've already given them $600 to make sure it worked and it doesn't, so I'm not interested in paying to have this one corrected. 

thanks for the badger diesel suggestion!

[GunMetalGrey]

I grabbed one of the seals yesterday from a local supplier, but when I got to the shop I found that the old seal was a double lip, and I had gotten a single lip.
The one I ordered online was a two lip seal, and that shows up tonight. Shall press that in and see if it is leaking from anywhere else, if not I shall proceed forward!

[Jdesign]

GunMetalGrey said:

I grabbed one of the seals yesterday from a local supplier, but when I got to the shop I found that the old seal was a double lip, and I had gotten a single lip.
The one I ordered online was a two lip seal, and that shows up tonight. Shall press that in and see if it is leaking from anywhere else, if not I shall proceed forward!

Ohhh yes! Closer and closer!

 

[GunMetalGrey]

New seal in, no fuel pouring out. 

I am looking forward to going to the shop tonight. 
Need to hook up the oil cooler lines, add the few wires that it needs, time the motor, and then attempt the bleeding process.

Interesting note, the E28 downpipe fits the e30 chassis quite well, so I've got the start of the new exhaust as well!

[straight6pwr]

GunMetalGrey said:

Interesting note, the E28 downpipe fits the e30 chassis quite well, so I've got the start of the new exhaust as well!

Stacks, please.