Lifted E30 V2

GunMetalGrey

HipMF said:

Regardless, I think you should challenge yourself to actually find the problem here and fix it instead of throwing your hands in the air and giving up.

Well @HipMF now that I've completed my problem solving of the M20's running issues I'm free to do as I please again, right?

Welcome ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the next chapter of this cars existence.

GunMetalGrey

Also, what's up with all of the lifted cars having mouse nests in them?

When changing the blower motor I had to vacuum out a small city that mice had lived in.
The red one came with free mouse nests and always smelled bad because of it.

YoungCR

M21 manifold?

GunMetalGrey

YoungCR said:

M21 manifold?

Far better my friend.

Earl

Pull that out of a lincoln?

YoungCR

Lol the Bosch sticker is worn out, didn't see that was the dme! That's awesome!

Jdesign

Soooo.. This took an excellent turn. Where did you find the motor?

GunMetalGrey

I went to a friend's place who is always building crazy stuff and he had it sitting in an E46 that he was working on making his commuter but ended up buying an e90 335d instead.

He knew of the lifted E30 and offered me what I feel like was a good deal on the motor along with his assistance and knowledge if needed.

From what I'm learning, these motors are not common stateside and finding parts for them is even trickier, especially if I'm looking for E30 diesel specific parts.

The block is based on an M20 so the large items are simple, motor mounts from the E motor bolted right up, oil pan swaps right over, transmission works, but it's all the little stuff that will be work. The cooling system being the primary difference.

Luckily this example is a fully mechanical injection setup and doesn't need any wiring other than a starter to run, so that helps me out a lot. I will be building a small harness (or modifying an old E30 one) to get coolant temp, engine RPM and other associated things.

I want to make sure this thing runs before I start spending too much money on it, so I ordered a new timing belt along with an oil filter and will be starting the motor out of the car to ensure it's good to go, and then it will be a free for all to stuff it in the car and get it running as quickly as possible.

HipMF

GunMetalGrey said:

Also, what's up with all of the lifted cars having mouse nests in them?

Outdoor storage?

So, now instead of calling it "The E", will it be "the D"?

GunMetalGrey

HipMF said:

So, now instead of calling it "The E", will it be "the D"?

It most certainly has been referred to as the D lately

Earl

Have you tried looking for amy weird cult pages for the turbo diesel lincolns? Being that those had this motor, someone might have a stash of parts over here to fix them. Also, did Canada get these? I know they got m51's and some of the other 90's era diesels.

GunMetalGrey

Earl said:

Have you tried looking for amy weird cult pages for the turbo diesel lincolns? Being that those had this motor, someone might have a stash of parts over here to fix them. Also, did Canada get these? I know they got m51's and some of the other 90's era diesels.

I'm hoping I don't need any major parts that aren't available online, though I will say it is amusing searching some of the part numbers from realOEM and getting no results....
I think North America saw about 3,500 524td's per the work of someone on a forum contacting BMW.

I've learned so many things about diesel's and how their whole system works, and I'm quite excited to get this thing running!

There certainly are a few funny things though, like how do you bleed the cooling system of something that won't get to operating temperature while idling?

Earl

B C

Wikipedia shows that it also came in this Bertone Freeclimber

GunMetalGrey

It was a one or two year production in the Lincoln, and the Bertone should be even easier to find

The parts I need for it are chassis specific or stuff that I wouldn't buy used.
Like the water pump, the bearings are pretty bad, but luckily that one is easy to get.
E30 specific radiator hoses are available from ECS as Euro Only, but will run me $75 before shipping.

The timing belt tensioner is slightly rough though, I think the OEM's didn't private label anything due to the low volume of parts, but the genuine BMW tensioner/idler is $100.
Finding parts for the Lincoln appears to be even worse actually.

I'm looking forward to starting attempts this weekend

I also need to remember to buy diesel oil, looks like it's quite different from standard engine oil.

Edit: just found the turbo diesel section of MyE28, this should be quite useful!

Earl

That Bertone is sick=P Couldn't you run those ribbed for her pleasure universal radiator hoses for now?

GunMetalGrey

Earl said:

Couldn't you run those ribbed for her pleasure universal radiator hoses for now?

I think I'll be able to get away with that, yes.

I'm avoiding spending any money on it until I know it runs, which I wish wasn't on my brain considering what I paid for it, but better to know earlier than later!
He was going full speed on his project with it so I'm not too concerned, but it will take what I'm assuming will be another 300-500 to get it fully grafted into the car and I don't want to start spending before I'm certain I can make it work!

Jdesign

I don't blame you for being cautious about spending money on it. Im not sure how that injection pump works, but make sure its bleed properly and cleaned well before you start cranking it over. I know that old mechanical injection diesels wont start with air in the line and old fuel tend to gum up the insides of the pump if it sits long enough.

One thing I would also be cautious about when you do finally get it to start, is it running away from you. Keep something to suffocate that sucker if she takes the "D" and starts screaming.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-pxsViKF88

KaiserRolls

Smother the turbo inlet with something. Properly sized block of wood would probably do it. Don’t use hands though

YoungCR

Yeah I'd read up everything you can about the injection pump. As Jason suggested I'd make sure it's fit for starting first too as that's most expensive and critical part. Fuel filter should be changed and I'd suggest priming it with Lucas diesel injector cleaner after cracking all the injector lines to bleed air out. It surprising how much air can be in there.

As far a maintenance you should always be running a fuel additive too to help maintain the pump seals and keep the injectors clean. For oil, 1 gal of 15-40 rotella is $13.99 at farm and fleet, its what I run in the M20's anyways.

WIBIMMERS

Lifted E30 V2