Running Thread of the Daily: 325XI
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Picked this up from a BMW mechanic's wife.
This picture is after getting new OEM BMW tie rods, boots and an alignment.
Caster on the drivers side is a little off. No ball joints are physically loose but I'll probably replace them in the spring.
Before the snow was flying the rear brakes were replaced by yours truly. All OEM BMW parts
I have an oil pan leak but that is about it for mechanical worries. A rip in the drivers side bolster and two small spots of rust. I'll take care of the little things as time goes on.
@DrLeadFoot
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I wouldn't worry about that caster split. At a degree you'll have a ride control issue but where it's at now you're fine. Just make sure your strut isn't bent or where the strut mounts to the body isn't ovaled or splitting.
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I wouldn't worry about that caster split. At a degree you'll have a ride control issue but where it's at now you're fine. Just make sure your strut isn't bent or where the strut mounts to the body isn't ovaled or splitting.
I'll take a good look. It drives like a totally different car with it being aligned!
@DrLeadFoot
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I keep on getting a PO430 & sometimes PO420 codes. The light will stay off for 400+ miles or come on in 50. What gives?
Post cat O2s or replace the cats?
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@DrLeadFoot
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if the P0420 was related to poor running then I would expect a misfire or rich codes to be stored also. If it was my car I would test the coolant temp sensor resistance, replace the upstream O2 since without records it can be assumed it is original, and the downstream sensors as well to ensure that the car isnt lying to you.
Correct or not, this is just how I would handle the situation.
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Or you could back probe the o2 and see if it's functioning. Even easier would be to hook up a scan tool and watch live data. You should see it fluctuating rapidly between .1v-1v, if it's stagnant then you either have a bad o2 or your car's not warmed up. If it is fluctuating then cause a vacuum leak and see if the o2 reacts accordingly to the lean condition.
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First make sure you don't have any broken wires, this is more common than you might think. The wire doesn't even have to be broken all of the way through but if it's open or corroded you've got resistance where it shouldn't be.
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The engine light has been staying off. I filled up the gas tank with regular the past two times from this local station. I wanted to join in on the low gas price fun with regular and it seems to be working. How does Kaiser say it? "Save BIG Money!"
@DrLeadFoot
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Got da whip washed and waxed before the snow came.
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@DrLeadFoot
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The engine light is not on and passed 160k miles. That's about it.
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@DrLeadFoot
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Washed and waxed!
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@DrLeadFoot
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Got some new shoes for the whip!
18" SSR
255 rears, 285 front Hoosier slicks.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I demand to see launches!
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This really helps with my work schedule. I don't have to brake into any corners.
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@DrLeadFoot
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@DrLeadFoot
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The wheel set ups are 18x8 Et47 with 285s up front and 18x8.5 et50 255s in the rear.
The story is Bimmer Bob (?) did an experiment to try and counter act the understeer the e46 chassis by putting big rubber up front. These were modified Evo wheels machined to an e46 set up.
The seller said the car would get squirrely in the rear under hard braking.
I wanted some quality wheels that could work on the m3 down the line.
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@DrLeadFoot
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I hope it doesn't rain while you've got those on! I still demand a launch video.
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