Shop Life 2.0
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Amen with backpressure, after the primaries and collector, nothing else matters. There is so much obnoxious misinformation in the car realm.
I like your plan using a stock turbo from a larger engine. Stock turbos are normally not top end monsters and on a smaller engine it shifts the useful flow and power to a higher rpm and you end up with a desirable powerband that doesnt fall on its face as much
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Very reliable and cheap turbos. Should be a great choice on there. I’ve used quite a few of them over the years. There are several different turbine housing available. The one you have flows decently well. You can also easily upgrade the compressor to a larger wheel if you end up wanting a bit more. I ran a 20t (upgraded 16t, and a 16t is near identical to the 15g used on the 850 turbo). They continue making power into ~25psi and can run that pressure all day. I ran mine at 27psi for quite a while without any problems after swapping the wastegate actuator out for one from a T3 (looks like you’re already addressing the insufficiency of the original actuator).
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How are the clearneces with the slanted m42? Is there enough room to fit gt30 sized turbski and 3" downpipe?
I want to get rid of my m10t and get 8 extra valves.
It's tight. Bigger turbo and 3" downpipe would probably be do-able, but there's not much room between the engine and strut tower/fenderwell. There are a few places where I've only got about 3/8" of clearance.
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I think ill have to vert mount the m42.
I thought about doing that, but you'll probably have do something with the oil pan as it will sit lower on the driver's side which puts it even lower (already the lowest point on the car). Also means the pickup isn't the lowest point in the pan, which isn't ideal. I'd probably fabricate a custom lower oil pan if I went that route, depending on how far you plan to rotate it.
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No burnout vids, but this car did run yesterday. Haven't really had the time or the headspace to put together any decent posts.
Took a while to get the trigger settings figured out, and I had two wires swapped on 3 out of 4 coils. After fixing that it fired up without much trouble.
It's strange to think about, but aside from not being tuned and some janky vacuum plumbing, it's pretty much a functional car at this point.
Hopefully the clutch works....
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Only one way to find out if the clutch works.
That way is burnoutttsssss -
Only one way to find out if the clutch works.
That way is burnoutttsssss
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The car made it's first boosty noises this weekend. The s.w.a.g. method that I used to build the timing and fuel tables worked well and the car seems to be running great. However, I'm getting some stray voltage on the chassis start/run bus which is causing the engine to continue running after the key is turned off. Also have a small oil leak that I haven't located yet, but appears to be coming from the lower engine area.
I haven't driven it much yet other than some test runs up and down the dead-end road in front of the shop, but it's been quite amusing so far.
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Everything looks beautifully packaged!
I cant say I have ever seen an intercooler downstream of the radiator.
Have you thought about a vent in the hood above the air gap and an an air scoop/shroud directing air between the units from underneath?
I guess it depends on the IAT, I usually saw about 25F-30F over ambient in the summer
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Everything looks beautifully packaged!
I cant say I have ever seen an intercooler downstream of the radiator.
Have you thought about a vent in the hood above the air gap and an an air scoop/shroud directing air between the units from underneath?
I guess it depends on the IAT, I usually saw about 25F-30F over ambient in the summer
Thanks.
The intercooler is mostly below the radiator. The plan is to extend the front valance down and build some ducting to bring fresh air from the front of the car, under the radiator.
Here's a pic from a couple pages back:
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I agree, nice package!
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Oil leak turned out to be a missing o-ring on the cam position sensor, so that was an easy fix.
Went out to do some tuning and the O2 controller promptly shat itself. Reading full lean 100% of the time. The status LEDs indicates that it's stuck in warm up mode. Tried a different sensor but got the same results. Sensor does not heat up; I'm assuming the controller (AEM Yu-Gi-Oh) is DOA. Would take it apart to troubleshoot, but the case is heat-staked together. Maybe it's because my background is in electronics manufacturing, but I'm always surprised by how shitty the quality/yield is on aftermarket automotive stuff.
Since I couldn't really do any driving/tuning without a wideband, I pulled the engine harness again to fix some stuff I boogered together at the 11th hour. Also re-torqued the head studs. Glad I did, because I was able to get ~1/16th turn on most of them.
After missing the picnic, my next goal was to be able to get the car to Iola (next weekend) to show the guys I hang out with up there. Still plausible I guess, but not the position I was hoping to be in as far as drivability goes...
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Iola is a cool show! I'd like to get back there some year.
Feel free to stop by. I'm usually there mid-day Thursday through early Saturday. I spend most of my time at their swap spot, napping/sobering up/day drinking, just SE of the tower. Occasionally I actually walk some swap...
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Currently between shop spaces, so nothing relevant to report. Taking advantage of the extra free time to focus on other things... like "authentic" Mexican cooking.
Picked up a copy of "The Cuisines of Mexico" by Diana Kennedy who lived in Mexico off-and-on and was considered an authority on Mexican food back in the 70s. I feel like my Mexican game was already pretty strong, but I'm starting over with the basics. I made frijoles de olla (beans cooked in a pot) yesterday so that I'd have leftovers to make frijoles refritos (refried beans) today. Both turned out well.
Also:
Last week at work two people got fired from our engineering department (literally half the department). I have a meeting set up Thursday to discuss possibly leaving manufacturing and joining the engineering team.
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