My name is Earl, and I have a Stainless Steel bolt fetish =)
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I got out to the shop yesterday=)
I started off the day mounting the motor on the stand.
I then removed the coolant lines and sensors from the intake side.
At this point I got a phonecall from a potential buyer for my wheels. I meet him and his grandfather in a grocery store parking lot, and arrived back to the shop with this.
I spent some on gas=) It was $1200. I just wanted them gone to fund building the Breytons. I also took that picture because it is obligatory when you have trap house money.
I then returned to the shop and Jake had arrived. He got to cleaning the block a bit more and I tackled removing the rear subframe.
Diff looks like it was leaking a little 0_o Jake also only took one picture of the motor. The other side is clean too...
I will hopefully be dropping the subframe on Wednesday. All that is left and the lower subframe mounts.
Tah Tah for now.
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Yesterday proved to be a successful day at the shop. (for how little time the girlfriend let me stay there)
I got the rear half of the driveshaft off and started to drop the subframe. I took an hour working from side to side, pounding the subframe down with a hammer and woodblock. The bushing sleeves weren't stuck, but the subframe was at a slight angle so they didn't want to just slide down=) All of that work provided me with this:
I then removed the diff, trailing arms, and brakes from the subframe. That took a while, since I couldn't figure out how to keep the diff from turning while I removed the axle bolts.
I also tried removing the axle from the hub, but couldn't get a socket to sit on the nut far enough. I found out after I got home that there is a locking plate that goes around the nut......I felt stupid, but will be removing it today.
The diff was definitely leaking. Hopefully it is okay. That will get cleaned up today, as well as many other things=)
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Snap Understeer said:
Very nice progress!
What was your method for removing the diff mount.
Did you mark the front half of the driveshaft in relation to the rear before separating them so that it will still be balanced when reassembling it?
I did not......hopefully I'll be okay.
I just pushed the bushing out by hand. lol It seperated from the metal sleeve. You can still see the steel sleeve in there. I tried hammering it out with a chisel with no luck=(
Edit: I just remembered that PO replaced the guibo. He would have had to remove the front half to do so. Hopefully his marks are still there. I never had any vibration issues. How much does it cost to get rebalanced?
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Earl said:
I did not......hopefully I'll be okay.
I just pushed the bushing out by hand. lol It seperated from the metal sleeve. You can still see the steel sleeve in there. I tried hammering it out with a chisel with no luck=(
Id recommend finding the balancing alignment marks (painted dots, sometimes a sticker with arrows on a reman. shaft) sooner than later. There may be grease, scrapes, or some other clue that will help you line them back up/make your own balancing marks now before the driveshaft gets moved around/wiped down etc. just in case the factory balancing marks are gone.
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I removed the front Sunday I believe. Put it on the ground, picked it up, and set it over by my transmission. I did the same thing with the rear yesterday. So I know I didn't wipe it off if it is there=) I will look. I reckon getting it rebalanced is costly ?
Edit: I felt so proud of myself removing all of this all alone. Now you make me feel stupid=P By the way, do you like being called Snap, or by your name? Your name is Brian (sp) right?
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Earl said:
I removed the front Sunday I believe. Put it on the ground, picked it up, and set it over by my transmission. I did the same thing with the rear yesterday. So I know I didn't wipe it off if it is there=) I will look. I reckon getting it rebalanced is costly ?
Edit: I felt so proud of myself removing all of this all alone. Now you make me feel stupid=P By the way, do you like being called Snap, or by your name? Your name is Brian (sp) right?
Not sure about the cost of rebalancing. I bought my reman driveshaft from a company in IL that is known for doing BMW driveshafts properly (Wholesale Import Parts or something like that). For ~350 IIRC. If you cant see any alignment marks or clues of how it goes back together then, as annoying as it would be, you could keep re-installing until its right
Call me whatever... Brian, whiteboy, snap, lurp, T-Bone (Seinfeld reference)
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drive axles mount up any which way. I even swapped sides (left side is now on the right side) to help even out any wear the ball+cage has had from shock loading in the one direction (weird paranoid engineer overthinking type logic). The inverted hex bolts used for the axles like to get greasy threads so make sure they (the threads) are very clean before re-installing them and use blue threadlocker to prevent them from backing themselves out. It happens more than youd think after someone removes/replaces an axle.
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You're talking about the e-torx bolts right? I was thinking of switching the axles to the opposite sides too=) I will definitely be rebending all new brake lines for the subframe though. There are lots of bubbles at every bend=/ I now need to go through underneath and see if any others need to be done. All of the lines in the bay are being re-ran to put them out of sight=)
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