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  4. Reverse Bleeding

Reverse Bleeding

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  • CMartC
    CMartC
    CMart
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    My car has been down for a while. Plumbing is a big part of what I have to do to get it back up and running. I have heard reverse bleeding is better/faster/easier. Does anyone have experience with it? Any input on which kit to buy? Will need to do my brake system and clutch.

    Excursion 7.3
    E30 LS1

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    0
    • YoungCRY
      YoungCRY
      YoungCR
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      I just reverse bled my clutch last night. I made a home-made bleeder with a small oil can and some clear tubing. Just attach the tube to the bleeder screw on the clutch slave and pump till you don't see any bubbles. Helps to have a partner confirm there are no bubbles up at the resivioir.

      Can't say I've heard of brakes being reverse bled though. Personally I don't see how it's any more effective and you would likely pump contaminants into the fluid resivioir, which you would then have to clean out. I've always just had someone help me by pumping the peddle. Sometimes you gotta do a second bleed to get good results.

      Chris Young
      BMWCCA #458972
      1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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      • R
        R
        Rowleym
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        I did the clutch in the same manner that he did and man it worked fantastic. 

        My car sat for a while and i'm having A HELL OF A TIME bleeding the brakes currently. I believe it has to do with the ABS. The calipers all bleed great, but there is still air in the system.

        96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

        sk8 or die

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        • patsbimmer1P
          patsbimmer1P
          patsbimmer1
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          DO NOT REVERSE BLEED WITH ABS!  It's the same reason you do not push a caliper piston in without opening a bleeder screw.  You have a high probability of pushing contaminants into the ABS unit and causing more issues than if you just take your time and bleed it correctly.  How do you know there is air in the system?  Is the pedal soft/spongy?  How are you currently bleeding the system?

          2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

          07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

          97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
          95 325is *sold*
          93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

          BMWCCA #473306

          Instagram @patsbimmer1

          AKA- HALLWAY PAT

          "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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          • patsbimmer1P
            patsbimmer1P
            patsbimmer1
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            If you suspect the ABS module to be the issue then I would recommend bleeding the ABS module.  Have someone build pressure like you were bleeding the brakes but instead of cracking the bleeders you'll open up the outgoing lines from the ABS.

            2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

            07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

            97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
            95 325is *sold*
            93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

            BMWCCA #473306

            Instagram @patsbimmer1

            AKA- HALLWAY PAT

            "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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            0
            • CMartC
              CMartC
              CMart
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              My ABS is removed for the time being to get the car up and running. I may reinstall at a later date, but for now It will be without.

              The car sat for months with brake lines unattached, so I am assuming it will not be fun hence wanting to reverse bleed as I have heard people have better luck vs traditional.

              Link to the parts you used for the home made?

              Anyone have thoughts on this unit? http://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1435592408&sr=8-1&keywords=reverse+bleeder

              Excursion 7.3
              E30 LS1

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              0
              • YoungCRY
                YoungCRY
                YoungCR
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                32398-Oil-CanMG8067.jpg

                I'd suggest a plastic machine oil can as my metal one I first used rusted shut. Whatever clear vinyl tubing size they have at the hardware store too that fits snug on a bleeder screw and the nozzle.

                Chris Young
                BMWCCA #458972
                1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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                0
                • R
                  R
                  Rowleym
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

                  If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little.

                  96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                  sk8 or die

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • ClassEC
                    ClassEC
                    ClassE
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    CYoung said:

                    32398-Oil-CanMG8067.jpg

                    I'd suggest a plastic machine oil can as my metal one I first used rusted shut. Whatever clear vinyl tubing size they have at the hardware store too that fits snug on a bleeder screw and the nozzle.

                    If metal -Try to get one that isn't coated/painted red like the one above. The brake fluid will eat away at the cheap Chinese paint and it'll flake into the fluid (like mine did).

                    I tried the reverse bleed when doing my clutch slave and couldn't get the right combo of nozzle/hose to seal tight enough.... So bled it with vacuum bleeder.

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                    0
                    • KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRollsK
                      KaiserRolls
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      I will have to bench bleed slave then bleed some more once I get the crap in the car. I'm not looking forward to that portion of the install.

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                      • patsbimmer1P
                        patsbimmer1P
                        patsbimmer1
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        Rowleym said:

                        my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

                        If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

                        Your pedal is supposed to sink after you start the car, especially if you built pressure in the pedal before starting it.

                        2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                        07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                        97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                        95 325is *sold*
                        93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                        BMWCCA #473306

                        Instagram @patsbimmer1

                        AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                        "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • R
                          R
                          Rowleym
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          patsbimmer1 said:

                          my pedal sinks about 1/4 the way when I start the car. My booster was great before, and I replaced the check valve, and the calipers bleed great, and the pedal is hard when the car isn't on. My abs still works, though, as I tested it..

                          If I bring the pedal up when the car is running, it rolls just fine. When I push it down, they stick down a little. 

                          Your pedal is supposed to sink after you start the car, especially if you built pressure in the pedal before starting it.

                          Is it supposed to sink a bit and stay? The brakes stick a bit unless I pull the pedal back up.

                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                          96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                          sk8 or die

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • patsbimmer1P
                            patsbimmer1P
                            patsbimmer1
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            It is supposed to sink and stay after you start the car.  If  your pedal is physically sticking then it is something mechanical between the master and the pedal.  If you had sticking calipers but the pedal didn't stick then it would be something after the master most likely.

                            2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                            07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                            97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                            95 325is *sold*
                            93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                            BMWCCA #473306

                            Instagram @patsbimmer1

                            AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                            "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • R
                              R
                              Rowleym
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #14

                              the pedal is not returning. The calipers stick until I pull the brake pedal up again. its very easy to pull the pedal up again.

                              96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                              sk8 or die

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • R
                                R
                                Rowleym
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #15

                                patsbimmer1 said:

                                It is supposed to sink and stay after you start the car.  If  your pedal is physically sticking then it is something mechanical between the master and the pedal.  If you had sticking calipers but the pedal didn't stick then it would be something after the master most likely.

                                such as my ABS system?

                                96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                sk8 or die

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                                • patsbimmer1P
                                  patsbimmer1P
                                  patsbimmer1
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #16

                                  No. Your abs wouldnt cause the issue. Thats a hydraulic piece that wouldnt hold your pedal.

                                  2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                  07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                  97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                  95 325is *sold*
                                  93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                  BMWCCA #473306

                                  Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                  AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                  "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • R
                                    R
                                    Rowleym
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #17

                                    Hmm so any ideas? Where would you start.

                                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                    96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg96.jpg

                                    sk8 or die

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                                    0
                                    • patsbimmer1P
                                      patsbimmer1P
                                      patsbimmer1
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #18

                                      Rowleym said:

                                      Hmm so any ideas? Where would you start. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                                      PM'd to prevent further thread jacking.

                                      2011 e90 M3 - DCT, Borla exhaust, BMW Performance Black Grille, ECS Painted Corners, Ziza Angel Eyes

                                      07 335i Stella - sport package, BMS DCI, zhp knob, TMS cf parking brake lever, VRSF downpipes, MHD tune, H&R race springs, other stuff *SOLD*

                                      97 328i Lola - sport package, m50 intake manifold, m50 manifold.com install kit, custom CAI, K&N filter, Borla exhaust, FK silverline coilovers, 25.5mm front sway bar, Powerflex front sway bushings, Turner Radiator, fan delete *sold*
                                      95 325is *sold*
                                      93 nissan 240sx KA-T *sold*

                                      BMWCCA #473306

                                      Instagram @patsbimmer1

                                      AKA- HALLWAY PAT

                                      "burnouts bring babes and babes dont have time for bushings" - Kaiser Rolls

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