E46 M3 HPDE/Street Legal Car
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OK...the build started here in this thread...
http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index.php?/topic/2851-e46-m3-in-whitefish-bay/
Now...started rear subframe reinforcement. I have a 3" crack on the right front mount sheet metal. Nothing major, still going to just epoxy the reinforcement plates on and call it the day. I do plan to tie in the front and rear mounting points into a tubular reinforcement from the top of the floor.
I think I kind of screwed myself. Took the rear subframe apart and forgot to remove the rear axle nut. So replacing the rear wheel bearing may have to wait.
Also found out my selector rod joint is no good...would explain the poor shifting...part is on order.
The crack.
The other 3 mounts.
And its all broken down.
If you get TC Kline coilovers...a WD40 bottle cap bolted to the top spring mount will keep your spring from falling out when you jack up the car.
Its been a loooooong time since my caliper has been this red!
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Seeing as to how your car is in pieces when is the next time I will see you on the track
Aug 21 at the Milwaukee Mile
Is all of the rear suspension/subframe aluminum?
The E30 subframe with diff and axles was quite the heavy monster to install without helpers.
Nope, the only aluminum is the upper control arms. The diff was pretty heavy but doable with one person. Just need some finesse and got repertoire of curse words.
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Aug 21 at the Milwaukee Mile
Nope, the only aluminum is the upper control arms. The diff was pretty heavy but doable with one person. Just need some finesse and got repertoire of curse words.
The amount of times I've dropped the diff in my E28. I know this feeling all to well. I got my diff swaps down to an hour and a half though. By myself. That was pretty fun.
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The amount of times I've dropped the diff in my E28. I know this feeling all to well. I got my diff swaps down to an hour and a half though. By myself. That was pretty fun.
Nice!
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Nice!
Ask C.young about our first experience. #completehelltrip
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Installed a Momo steering wheel.
And some ricing...I meant racing stripes.
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Yup. Spray painted red. Its a big waste of money but I got it used and cheap. Just make your own.
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Installed some brake ducts. Total cost...$85.
So I got some hose and flanges...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42150/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all42142/overview/
I've had the BW backing plates on...I think they are about $100.
So I basically routed the hoses like everyone else does. The wheel is an Apex ARC8 18x9.5 et 22 wheel and clears the hose at full lock. I got dual outlets on the ducts so I'm using the driver's side as a cold air intake, not sure what I'm going to do with the extra one on the pass side.
So I basically zip tied the flange to the bumper opening. Ghetto? Maybe. Show car quality? Nope. Does it work? We'll see. Then I filled in the gaps with aluminum tape. I do want to plastic weld ABS into the gaps but this bumper is trashed so I'm just going to wait until replace the cover. I wouldn't do this to a DD but, IMO, fine for a track car. No need to spend $300 on a CF duct. $40 works fine.
Here's the cold air intake
A front end pic.
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The OE ducts have a similar route to the air filter so it shouldn't be a huge issue. Most of all this car isn't really driven on the street much.
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COOLING
First time I've been able to really tax the cooling system since I've done all of the upgrade...or decontenting. Right now, I've got an OE cooling system. The goal is to provide enough cooling that will keep temps in check (260 oil, 220 water) during a 20 minute HPDE session. The only upgrades are:
1. Deleted the aux and mech fan
2. Installed a SPAL fan controlled by the OE aux fan controller
3. Oil diverter valve
4. A/C deleted
5. 100% distilled water with 1/2 bottle of water wetterAmbient temp was in the mid 80s and the humidity was atrocious. The OE oil gauge stayed right at 255 and the OE water gauge never went above the 2/3 dot. I forgot to monitor water temps in the OE cluster but I was at 180f at the end of my cool down lap. Pretty happy but I think I am still going to install a 25 row Setrab cooler mounted in front of the OE radiator. Then I will just replace the radiator and water pump (maybe) with an OE part. With the A/C out...I don't see much of a need to replace the radiator for an HPDE application.
BRAKE DUCTS
The seemed to work pretty well. I ran stoptech street pads instead of my usual SR34 race pads. The street pads did OK. They will usually overheat and then just have zero bite and generally suck. Last night I think the ducts kept the pads cool enough so they had a consistent feel throughout the night. No "OH S$@!!" moments!
Here's a video from last night at the Milwaukee Mile...really liking the Evolve tune! Finally it feels like it has a little power! I do need to replace my front tie rods...the are seized and won't adjust. My alignment, in general, is shiet. I have to look at my UUC DSSR...3rd and 4th is tricky to get into gear. I might have it backwards (not upside down). I think I can easily break 1:18 with an alignment and clean shifting.
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I just checked to see if you could use an EMP/Stewart water pump, unfortunately it says it fits m50/52/54, but only s50/52. I have one and it is very high quality.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=145
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I just checked to see if you could use an EMP/Stewart water pump, unfortunately it says it fits m50/52/54, but only s50/52. I have one and it is very high quality.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=84&product_id=145
I had one in my 330...great unit. 80k miles and it looked brand new. Luckily the OEM components on the M3 hold up pretty good unlike the non-M E46s.
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Installed some exhaust wrap on the exhaust where it passes underneath he lower control arm and rear axle boot. Trying to prevent cooking the rubber. I used exhaust wrap ($50), 2 4" hose clamps and some aluminum tape (to prevent the wrap from unraveling. We'll see how it turns out.
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