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  4. SPAL aux fan help

SPAL aux fan help

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  • K
    K
    Kip
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Today the auxiliary fan in my E34 would not turn on. Previous owner had installed a SPAL fan with a manual on/off switch mounted under the ashtray. Today I was in traffic and went to turn the fan on as a precaution, and it did nothing when I flipped the switch. I got a new toggle switch from Home Depot and connected it to the fan and still nothing. I'm not sure how to diagnose if it's an issue with the fan itself of with the wiring. Does anyone have experience with these fans? The electrical on this car is kind of a mess and I could really use the advice of someone more knowledgeable than I. I don't absolutely need it since the temps still stay right around the middle of the gauge. But I would really like to have it working in case it is actually needed. I'll update with pics tomorrow when it's not dark.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    • KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRollsK
      KaiserRolls
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      PO of my car did the same thing (aftermarket fan switch) snap and I found some "less than ideal" wiring going to a relay. First issue was it wasn't grounding properly. Second issue (and main reason it wouldn't work) is the relay was junk. It had a combo of salt/sand/dust/corrosion and was just junk. I have yet to order another relay though

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      • K
        K
        Kip
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        KaiserRolls said:

        PO of my car did the same thing (aftermarket fan switch) snap and I found some "less than ideal" wiring going to a relay. First issue was it wasn't grounding properly. Second issue (and main reason it wouldn't work) is the relay was junk. It had a combo of salt/sand/dust/corrosion and was just junk. I have yet to order another relay though

        Actually just opened up the little case for the inline 30A fuse and it was fried. Popped a new one in and still no fan. Doesn't help that the PO didn't label the load/line wires so I have no clue what is what. The relay is super clean with nice seals. I'll have to tackle it more tomorrow.

        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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        • jc43089J
          jc43089J
          jc43089
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          If your OE one is junk, remove it and use the wiring from it to your Spal fan, then it will come on based on the coolant temp/AC usage just like the OE one.  Do you have the mechanical fan still?

          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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          • K
            K
            Kip
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            jc43089 said:

            If your OE one is junk, remove it and use the wiring from it to your Spal fan, then it will come on based on the coolant temp/AC usage just like the OE one.  Do you have the mechanical fan still?

            Previous owner got rid of the OEM fan.

            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • jc43089J
              jc43089J
              jc43089
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              Ah so the wiring should be there still, it is usually a 3 wire plug with some pretty large gauge wires going to it, On the e36 it comes up from the bottom of the fan.  The 3 wires are so it can run slow or fast depending on temp, what is the exact model and production date?  I can look at the ETM for it and figure out exactly which wires you would need to use.

              I'm confused about which stock fans you have/don't have?  Stock there is an electric pusher in front of the condenser/radiator AND a mechanical on the water pump shaft.

              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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              0
              • K
                K
                Kip
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                jc43089 said:

                Ah so the wiring should be there still, it is usually a 3 wire plug with some pretty large gauge wires going to it, On the e36 it comes up from the bottom of the fan.  The 3 wires are so it can run slow or fast depending on temp, what is the exact model and production date?  I can look at the ETM for it and figure out exactly which wires you would need to use.

                I'm confused about which stock fans you have/don't have?  Stock there is an electric pusher in front of the condenser/radiator AND a mechanical on the water pump shaft.

                It's a 91 525i but has an S52 swapped in. Electric fan with manual switch attached to radiator. AC compressor is installed but no belts since I don't use it. I just fixed it by replacing the inline fuse holder and replacing the toggle switch under the ashtray. I would still like to wire it to come on automatically though. Add it to the long list of things to work on.

                ejy6ameg.jpge5e7u4ur.jpga3u4adup.jpg

                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • jc43089J
                  jc43089J
                  jc43089
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  Ok, is there another electric fan in front of the radiator and condenser?  I can't see the pics because I am at work and the firewall blocks it.  You would be able to see it through the grill.  On my e36 I swapped the temp sensor located on the passenger side of the radiator with a 4cylinder one which plugs right in.  The temp settings are lower for those.  80/88C vs 91/99C. 

                  If you do not have the factory electric fan up I would just get a working one and swap the temp switch to the 80/88 one, no need for the Spal fan then.  I have been running my e36 for 5 years with the 80/88 fan switch controlling the OE pusher electric fan, and no mech fan and never had cooling problems.  Temps are steady around 195F, sitting in traffic it gets to about 205-210 and the fan comes on and brings it right down.  My temps are measured at the OE gauge sender location in the head. 

                  The reason I went this way is because it is all OEM parts and is really cheap, the new temp switch is 34$ from bavauto.

                  2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                  3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                  '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                  '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                  '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                  '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                  '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                  0
                  • K
                    K
                    Kip
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    jc43089 said:

                    Ok, is there another electric fan in front of the radiator and condenser?  I can't see the pics because I am at work and the firewall blocks it.  You would be able to see it through the grill.  On my e36 I swapped the temp sensor located on the passenger side of the radiator with a 4cylinder one which plugs right in.  The temp settings are lower for those.  80/88C vs 91/99C. 

                    If you do not have the factory electric fan up I would just get a working one and swap the temp switch to the 80/88 one, no need for the Spal fan then.  I have been running my e36 for 5 years with the 80/88 fan switch controlling the OE pusher electric fan, and no mech fan and never had cooling problems.  Temps are steady around 195F, sitting in traffic it gets to about 205-210 and the fan comes on and brings it right down.  My temps are measured at the OE gauge sender location in the head. 

                    The reason I went this way is because it is all OEM parts and is really cheap, the new temp switch is 34$ from bavauto.

                    Yeah the stock electric fan is there in front of the radiator. It works fine. The mechanical fan on the water pump is what the PO deleted. Spal aux fan is attached to the back of the radiator.

                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      In that case you should get the 80/88C fan thermostat.  It should be on the passenger side of the radiator.  Looks like this, but the plastic might be black.  Swap the switch, plug the connector in and your stock electric fan will turn on at a much more appropriate temperature, easy, cheap, and OE replacement parts for a clean look.

                      61318361787.jpg

                      P/N is: 61 31 8 361787

                      It seals with a crush washer so get that too:  32 41 1 093 596.

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • K
                        K
                        Kip
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        jc43089 said:

                        In that case you should get the 80/88C fan thermostat.  It should be on the passenger side of the radiator.  Looks like this, but the plastic might be black.  Swap the switch, plug the connector in and your stock electric fan will turn on at a much more appropriate temperature, easy, cheap, and OE replacement parts for a clean look.

                        P/N is: 61 31 8 361787

                        It seals with a crush washer so get that too:  32 41 1 093 596.

                        You're the man, thanks for all the help.

                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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