The "Random E30 Questions" Thread
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I would assume the parcel shelves should be similar between two and four doors.
Edit: just browsed realoem. Looks like the 2dr and 4dr window shelves have the same part numbers
And I think you need a tool to reset the SIL in the dash
-or jump some pins
http://www.beckerelectronics.com/BMW/servicelightreset.html
Just don't jump the wrong pins.
Fwiw, mine are on, I try not to look at them
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Do people typically not over bore their m20 when rebuilding it for boost? Is it safe to do an overbore for boost?
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Well, this is probably the place to ask this (oil questions again):
I need to change my oil again (e30 318is, 1000 miles of driving will be occurring in the next 10 days) and I don't know what oil I should use because there is no concrete answer for m42 cars. I don't want to go to a full synthetic because I don't want any more leaks to develop. I currently have castrol gtx high mileage 10w-40 and it was pretty good in the colder weather but I have been noticing a lot more audible ticking at lower RPM's (possibly due to the oil being too thin?) recently as the temperatures have been steadily 65+. Would changing to 20w-50 (probably castrol gtx high mileage again) be a good choice for the summer or would it put too much strain on the pump/not flow well on startup/etc in WI summer temperatures? This weight seems to be the consensus on m20's but for the m42 I can't find a consistent answer.
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I found this on MyE28.com on how to reset your service interval lights. I am sure it is the same for the E30.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=35609
My best suggestion for anyone working on old BMW's is to get a Bentley Service Manual for their MY car and read the whole thing. Tons of info and tips.
One cool thing I have found out and used is that you can activate the starter with the diagnostic port. Very useful when adjusting valves.
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20w-50 or 15w-50 would be great=-)
That's what I was thinking, I would really like 15w-50 but I can only get that as a full synthetic, so I am really leaning towards the 20w-50.
BMW engines all tick like a sewing machine, I would not be concerned about that. I would also use synthetic but that's my personal preference. I just filled my new to me m20 with 150k on it with royal purple 10w-40.
Its the worst haha, the reason I am putting so much thought into it is that my engine just seems to be louder than my old m42 so I want to see if I can quiet it down. In my old car I switched to mobile 1 full synthetic and I had an oil pan gasket leak pretty soon after so I am wary of accelerating any leaks I already have, has anyone else had that problem?
I found this on MyE28.com on how to reset your service interval lights. I am sure it is the same for the E30. http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=35609 My best suggestion for anyone working on old BMW's is to get a Bentley Service Manual for their MY car and read the whole thing. Tons of info and tips. One cool thing I have found out and used is that you can activate the starter with the diagnostic port. Very useful when adjusting valves.
It looks like a similar process, I've always done the paperclip technique to reset it haha. The e30 Bentley doesn't cover the m42 so I haven't bought it yet, but I do have the e36 Bentley which does. The e36 Bentley recommends 15w-40 for the summer so maybe I will just stay with what I have. I guess ultimately it doesn't make a ton of difference as long as I'm not going WAY far away from the original spec Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
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I run valvoline max life 20w-50. In the m50 though.
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I run 10w-40 Mobil clean 5000 in the spring and 20w-50 in the summer in my m20.
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I run farm and barn 15w-40 dizzle oils in my m20 in the e28 for my first oil flush thing in my super eta that i just swapped in
1984 BMW 528e - SETA and manual swapped! M50 to come!!!
1988 BMW 528e - Need parts?
1991 Chevy C1500 (mighty 350 with TBI and Wisconsin weight reduction package)
1996 Mazda Miata (SOLD!!!)
1996 BMW 325i (Donor car)
1998 Chevrolet Corvette (BEAST)
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (BROKEN)
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The only way synthetic oil can "cause" a leak is by cleaning sludge buildup that is currently clogging a potential leak. Some people think it damages seals/gaskets somehow, this is purely a myth. I prefer to have the inside of my engine look like this, perfectly clean, no sludge anywhere. This is after 5 years/45k after a rebuild. I change the oil with royal purple HPS once a year (about 10k)
I also use Synthetic in my Maxima and Land Cruiser. The Maxima did not start leaking and it had conventional oil until I switched around 170k, it is now at almost 220k. The Land Cruiser leaks alot, but it did that before I made the switch, it is hard to tell if it is any worse so I'm not sure.
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Rotella t 15w40. Its super cheap and im pretty sure my m42 loves it. So did my 1975 honda cb550. I wont use anything else ever
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Rotella t 15w40. Its super cheap and im pretty sure my m42 loves it. So did my 1975 honda cb550. I wont use anything else ever
I second, haven't used it in my bmws yet but my truck has lived on rotella for 250k+. 1 gallon jugs can go on sale for $12 sometimes. Once I have the extra cash I wanna buy a barrel at farm and fleet for $550 haha.
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To those who have installed solid trans mounts in an E30. I just finished installing my solid engine mounts and trans mounts, and took the car for a quick test drive (1989 325IS, fairly stock M20). Engine/trans vibrations are fine, throttle response is great.... but under load between 3k-5k I feel a "rumble" from the driveline. I'm not sure if it's a "trans vibrating tunnel/chassis" rumble or a "Might lose a driveshaft" rumble. Any experience with a similar noise/vibration from others? I'm well aware I'll be feeling more vibrations and such through the car, but this one immediately had me going "uh-oh".
Also - are the OEM trans mounts a "straight through" design? When I removed my original mounts, one mount had the studs a good 1/2" or more "off alignment" from one another. Not sure if the new trans mounts "corrected" this misalignment and is causing a vibration - or if that's totally acceptable.
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This thread will get an up-tick in posts from me as fall approaches.... Time to get some wrenching done!!!
I need to order a CSB and guibo for my car, but after some searching it appears there's different sizes (year/model specific?). Also - everyone says to only get an OEM guibo, but everyone says to get them from different suppliers.
-Pelican or Guten for both parts?
-Best way to ensure I order the right parts?
Thanks guys!
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First of all, im the only one in the world that spells it correctly and I am trying to preach the truth.
G I U B O
I personally dont have an issue running whatever brand giubo that pelican or any other reputable vendor would offer, just not some random Ebay Chinese Lucky-Dragon Brand parts. For the center support bearing I would go with an OE unit for sure. it isn't a fun part to replace and from my perusings on the interweb it seems as if the cheaper ones dont hold up. The non-OE unit on my car isnt noisy but the rubber isolator is already falling apart.
just say no to solid giubos
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You can always email Steve at Blunttech, he is a great guy and emails back amazingly fast regardless of when you email him. He is out of Minnesota so parts come amazingly fast and he is very willing to work with you.
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