The "Random E30 Questions" Thread
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\Im posting this image explicitly because of the note on it where "JHZR2" claims to have copyrighted the image and I felt like making "unotherized use" of it because im going to profit so much by posting it.
When its below 40F consistently I run 10w-40
When its above 40F consistently I run 20w-50
Rear diff:
Some are regular hex head drain plugs, others are male hex (10mm?) nothing special here, just fill until it starts pouring out of the top drain hole. I like the soap dispenser type bottle pumps for this and also remember to use diff fluid with an LSD additive. (If you dont have an LSD then freaking get one)
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SEM trim paint looks great and is high quality and matches the OEM trim look. however, like most paint, your trim that has been on the car in the sun for 30 years won't really match anything perfectly if you are trying to touch it up. repaint whole pieces for the best effect.
Dan
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I use 10W-40 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer. Stock M20. Seems to do fine, although you can tell the difference in how the engine runs when that 20W-50 starts getting cold around early November. Will change sooner this year.
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On my old 2.7i m20 (eta motor with the i head) I ran 20w-50.
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@DrLeadFoot
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SEM trim paint looks great and is high quality and matches the OEM trim look. however, like most paint, your trim that has been on the car in the sun for 30 years won't really match anything perfectly if you are trying to touch it up. repaint whole pieces for the best effect.
Planning to do the whole lip, just want to be close in color/texture to bumper rub strips.
Is SEM a brand? Never heard if it - will try to find locally.
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It is a brand. It is one of the best trim paints. It is lacquer based so it is thin and will be the same texture as your lip is now. O'Reillys is a supplier for it but they may need to order you a can. I had them order it for me when I was working on my hatch trim.
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Acouple more:
-I see people referencing "early" and "late" model taillights. Is the split on the taillight style the same as the bumper change from metal to plastic? Any overlap?
-Are the rear parcel shelves the same between the 2-doors and 4-doors?
-How do I reset the "oil change" interval LED thingy in the cluster?
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I would assume the parcel shelves should be similar between two and four doors.
Edit: just browsed realoem. Looks like the 2dr and 4dr window shelves have the same part numbers
And I think you need a tool to reset the SIL in the dash
-or jump some pins
http://www.beckerelectronics.com/BMW/servicelightreset.html
Just don't jump the wrong pins.
Fwiw, mine are on, I try not to look at them
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Do people typically not over bore their m20 when rebuilding it for boost? Is it safe to do an overbore for boost?
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Well, this is probably the place to ask this (oil questions again):
I need to change my oil again (e30 318is, 1000 miles of driving will be occurring in the next 10 days) and I don't know what oil I should use because there is no concrete answer for m42 cars. I don't want to go to a full synthetic because I don't want any more leaks to develop. I currently have castrol gtx high mileage 10w-40 and it was pretty good in the colder weather but I have been noticing a lot more audible ticking at lower RPM's (possibly due to the oil being too thin?) recently as the temperatures have been steadily 65+. Would changing to 20w-50 (probably castrol gtx high mileage again) be a good choice for the summer or would it put too much strain on the pump/not flow well on startup/etc in WI summer temperatures? This weight seems to be the consensus on m20's but for the m42 I can't find a consistent answer.
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