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  4. First venture into the world of BMW's, lots of E30 questions:

First venture into the world of BMW's, lots of E30 questions:

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved BMW Discussion
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  • EarlE
    EarlE
    Earl
    wrote on last edited by
    #28

    How much does certifit want? They would definitely be cheaper and would work as long as the fit is decent.

    http://www.certifit.com/Default.aspx?

    museum sig 2earl.jpg

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    • ClassEC
      ClassEC
      ClassE
      wrote on last edited by
      #29

      They only list the 5-Series on their website when choosing your car. I've got a line on one in Minnesota, just waiting to hear shipping info.

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • YoungCRY
        YoungCRY
        YoungCR
        wrote on last edited by
        #30

        If interested I could get you a oem fender for probably $160

        Chris Young
        BMWCCA #458972
        1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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        0
        • ClassEC
          ClassEC
          ClassE
          wrote on last edited by
          #31

          I would take you up on that - but just arranged to have one delivered from Minnesota for $85!!!

          Just got into garage, gonna finish up timing belt install and work on reassembly. Then it's just oil change, fuel filter, plugs and start it up!!!

          If all goes right, I'll make my paint appointment on Monday!

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          • KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRollsK
            KaiserRolls
            wrote on last edited by
            #32

            ^ I like how fast you work!!

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            0
            • ClassEC
              ClassEC
              ClassE
              wrote on last edited by
              #33

              I've got a LONG list for this winter. ;)

              Cam seals and timing belt swap DONE. Started reassembly and called it a night cause work is going to come early tomorrow.

              How we left it, finish reassembly tomorrow night - oil change - fuel filter - and *hopefully* take it for a spin!

              C697B2EA-0C3D-4370-9241-8D66DB60B1AD-603

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              • ClassEC
                ClassEC
                ClassE
                wrote on last edited by
                #34

                Fender will be here at noon tomorrow (how's that for shipping huh!), which means I should have all of the body stuff I need to make the paint shop Monday. Only thing I need is to make sure my guy with the fender roller can make it Saturday to roll the hell outta these fenders!

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                • EarlE
                  EarlE
                  Earl
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #35

                  Making great time=) Wish I was this motivated

                  museum sig 2earl.jpg

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                  • Brian.B
                    Brian.B
                    Brian.
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #36

                    Looking good Collin!

                    instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                    • ClassEC
                      ClassEC
                      ClassE
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #37

                      I'm also whipping through this pretty quick, knowing it's all coming back apart in a month or two anyways. M20 is only staying in this car for this next summer, but I'm still gonna pull everything apart and have it sandblasted/zinc coated/powder coated.

                      I have every intention of driving it this weekend for a bit, maybe even tonight if reassembly goes well. Acouple questions:

                      -Fuel filter: I'm assuming it's an inline filter under the car just forward of either the drivers or passengers rear tire? Standard issues "bung-in bung-out" filter or anything I should know?

                      -I haven't picked up a Bentely yet for this car, anyone have suggestions on an appropriate oil weight to run in this car?

                      -I have never owned a car that needed a valve adjustments (does an M20 have solid lifters - hence the need to adjust?). Any harm in driving the car if it hasn't had an adjustment in years? What should I listen for?

                      Hopefully gonna have it all buttoned up tonight!

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                      • Brian.B
                        Brian.B
                        Brian.
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #38

                        Answers to your questions:

                        inline fuel filter, bung-in, bung-out design

                        oil weight, if not driving in winter, standards 10w30

                        valve adjustments usually only stay "adjusted" for a few weeks, then will slowly settle back into it's prior state. Kinda weird. My M30 does it as well!

                        instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                        • ClassEC
                          ClassEC
                          ClassE
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #39

                          Awesome, thanks Brian!

                          I've got a bit of reading to do on valve adjustments and this style cam/lifter/rocker set-up.... Quite a bit different from all the SOHC VW engines I've had.

                          10-30 huh? Auto parts run over lunch!!!

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                          • Brian.B
                            Brian.B
                            Brian.
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #40

                            Honestly man, I wouldn't really bother with a valve adjustment, UNLESS yours ticks pretty bad. If not, I'd leave it. These old i6's always have a little valve clicking! Unless you feel really motivated to, by all means have at 'er!

                            instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                            • B
                              B
                              Boris3
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #41

                              Oil and the m20 is a topic with everyone having their preferences. Bentley recs are 20-50 summer and lighter for winter 10/15-40 or lower bracket depending on how cold. Some folks argue that the Bentley was written before the modern synth oils so is out of date which leads to more recommendations.

                              My SpecE30 track car likes 20-50 dino, nothing burned no leaks happy car. Too much syrup for winter though. Tried a lighter synth (5-30?) when I first got the car and even with replaced seals leaked all over the place. Cheap horsepower though for some front pack is to run a lighter weight and pour in the quarts between sessions as it burns off.

                              1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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                              • Brian.B
                                Brian.B
                                Brian.
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #42

                                I run 10w40 in the E28 in summer. she loves it.

                                instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                                • ClassEC
                                  ClassEC
                                  ClassE
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #43

                                  I'd like to do one at some point before spring - if nothing else just to better understand the engine. If I'm not in danger of harming anything, I won't do it before theirs snow on the ground.

                                  Paint shop on Monday, then try to get a week or two of driving it in before theirs snow on the ground..... Then the REAL fun begins!

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                                  • ClassEC
                                    ClassEC
                                    ClassE
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #44

                                    I wonder if I'll even be able to find 20-50 locally? This will be a garage kept summer only car - so If I can find a 20-50 I'll go that route, or I'm sure they'll have 10-40 anyplace.

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                                    • Brian.B
                                      Brian.B
                                      Brian.
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #45

                                      You can get 20w50 at oreilly's. you won't have a problem

                                      instagram @howdoyoudrivethat

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                                      • B
                                        B
                                        B C
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #46

                                        My suggestion for an M20 based on the temperature chart in the owners manual is 

                                        20w-50 summer

                                        10w-40 winter

                                        I just buy the cheapest 10w-40 (just in case I absolutely HAVE to run the car) for storing my car over winter

                                        Valve lash that is too loose can increase the chances of a broken rocker.
                                        Too tight on the exhaust side can cause burnt valves

                                        I am wanting to try out 0.008" on the intake side for a bit more performance and a little less noise but just haven't yet. Maybe you could be the guinnea pig :D

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                                        • YoungCRY
                                          YoungCRY
                                          YoungCR
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #47

                                          Valve adjustment isn't too tedious on the m20, I noticed mine ran a little smoother too.

                                          Chris Young
                                          BMWCCA #458972
                                          1986 528e/5  | 1994 530i/5 | 1995 540i/6 | 2013 X5 35d | 1998 C1500 Suburban | 1995 K2500 Suburban

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