The little V8 that could: 530i Daily Log

[Jdesign]

Nice to see you guys finally have a lift!! Good progress and you can always give me a shout when you plan on turning wrenches, I would love to come help!

[straight6pwr]

you've had all the classic e34 crap. nickel and dimers, for sure. what will come next: some of the 100 steering arm joints will go. door lock cylinders will all fail. and sagging headliner. PS leaks. window motors/regulator. rusty door corners.

love it in white!

did you notice a power band shift with the 4.0 intake? to me, it pulls a bit better up in the higher revs like an i6.

[YoungCR]

straight6pwr said:

you've had all the classic e34 crap. nickel and dimers, for sure. what will come next: some of the 100 steering arm joints will go. door lock cylinders will all fail. and sagging headliner. PS leaks. window motors/regulator. rusty door corners.

love it in white!

did you notice a power band shift with the 4.0 intake? to me, it pulls a bit better up in the higher revs like an i6.

Thanks guys! Yeah the power steering is leaking but surprisingly this car steers like new still, only a matter of time like the rest of those issues haha. Yes I did notice the small power shift, it gives the exhaust note a little more grunt too. Eventually I'll find a early intake like you and install that with rebuilt injectors.

[Jdesign]

...

[YoungCR]

thanks for the bump  Forgot to update this a while back but before the last cruise up to RA I had done 1/2 of a 540i brake swap. Thought the rear calipers were going to come with brackets but they didn't. Didn't realize this until I was putting the rear brakes on and I couldn't find the 540i brake cores I had. The rear brakes were ok yet so I put those back on and just ran the new fronts for the cruise. The powerstop front calipers made quite a difference but the peddle pressure wasn't consistent in all types of driving. Gonna perform a full flush once I get the brackets and complete the swap. 

Car has been sitting for at least a month now because the dip stick broke off when I went to change the oil. The parts engine had already been moved to my new storage unit and I haven't had time since to go over and pick that par  Also the plastic drive pulleys are eating the belt now so those need replacement. Gonna order parts tonight for this, its likely gonna be my get away car for the wedding unless I get the E28 in shape.

[YoungCR]

So this didn't end up making it to the wedding either! I ended up replacing the whole dip stick with a used one and changed the oil, and replaced the belt deflection pulley.

Fired her up for a test drive around the block and the brakes felt soft. Started the process of bleeding the brakes. Rear passenger was fine, but no fluid from the rear driver. Took the caliper off to swap with a spare thinking it was seized and noticed no fluid coming out of the rubber line. Nothing changed with the new caliper either and now I couldn't get fluid from the RR side either. Fronts bleed out basically what was in the caliper themselves. So now I have a completely disfunctional brake system as I ripped the parking brakes out think that those were hanging up but in reality the soft lines were swollen. Possibly a crushed line too?

I'm assuming the worst at this point that it will need all new lines and I'll replace the master cylinder as a precaution. I have SS braided lines to replace stock soft sections already and still need to source 540i rear calipers brackets if I don't find the pair I should have in my stash

[Jdesign]

Sounds like a giant PIA. Let me know if you need an extra set of hands in there!

[YoungCR]

Jdesign said:

Sounds like a giant PIA. Let me know if you need an extra set of hands in there! 

Do you have a air powered brake bleeder? Somebody broke my Motive power bleeder and debating if I wanna fix it or upgrade to something that hooks up to compressed air.

[Jdesign]

YoungCR said:

Do you have a air powered brake bleeder? Somebody broke my Motive power bleeder and debating if I wanna fix it or upgrade to something that hooks up to compressed air.

I do not. But I can tell you I have used various types of bleeders. The vacuum bleeders that use an air compressor kind of suck, I have use 3 different types/brands and you end up manually bleeding anyways.

Positive pressure bleeders like the Schwaben or Motive (shown below) are the best. I would suggest the Schwaben as its really high quality, and has the metal reservoir caps

[YoungCR]

Found the motivation to work on this! As suspected, the rear rubber soft lines had swollen. All the brake fittings had shrunk to 10.5mm so I spent the afternoon cutting out all the lines from the drivers wheel well union back. Tedious but doable with the rear end still on the car. I'll have pics of the new lines next weekend when I finish it up.

[patsbimmer1]

Any progress is good!

[patsbimmer1]

Jdesign said:

The vacuum bleeders that use an air compressor kind of suck

I see what you did there...

[Jdesign]

patsbimmer1 said:

I see what you did there...

Almost went unseen. 

[YoungCR]

Thanks for reminding me to order a replacement adapter for my bleeder.

[YoungCR]

I have pics to upload soon but quick update just to remind myself. Replubmbed all the rear brake lines and still can't get fluid to the rear. Front brakes won't bleed either so Master Cylinder is shot or ABS pump clogged? From what I've read it seems that the MC is bad. Brake Peddle is firm after a few pumps but no fluid moving past ABS. Power bleeder holds steady pressure as well without pushing any fluid either.

[B C]

Don't rule out the proportioning valve

[Jdesign]

What style bleeder are you using?

[YoungCR]

Motive power bleeder. I’ve only used it on this car so far and never had any luck with it even before these current issues though.

[straight6pwr]

i've used that style bleeder attached to the brake fluid res on my e34 and it worked fine.

thinking about how a MC works, wouldn't it be hard for it to fail in a way that would block fluid flow? i suppose the ports could get blocked by chucks of the seal if it was falling apart, but that would result in a rock hard pedal, as the cylinder would be trying to push the fluid out, but it would be just compressing it. the normal mode of failure is bad (leaking) seals causing the opposite problem of no pressure.

i'd think the ABS unit would be more suspect. I've read online about procedures to hot wire the unit to actuate the gates, or possible to tap the unit to try and unstick the gates, but I can't find any to reference at the moment.

B C said:

Don't rule out the proportioning valve

i dont believe the e34 has a valve. the abs unit controls proportioning.

[patsbimmer1]

Take it to a gravel parking lot and slam the brakes about 15 to 20 to activate abs.  You have now completed an abs bleed.