the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
-
I had a Renown and it seemed a bit flimsy in comparison to all of the Momos I've had. I also just found out that they're just a rebranded Chinese wheel. Look at Viilante steering wheels on eBay. They're the same wheels as Renown but different branding.
while it definitely could be rebranded, or share overseas suppliers for parts, my renown wheel is not flimsy. i torque'd on it pretty good and felt i was at risk of breaking something in the column else before the wheel was going to bend.
Dan
-
I'm not saying it's flimsy like a noodle but it definitely has more give to it than any of the Momo's I've had, and my Italvolanti. For the price Scott charges for Renown wheels they should be from a better source than what I've come to find out. For almost half of his cost you can get the exact same wheel that just has a different name on it. At the price point that those are sold for, it makes for a decent budget wheel.
-
I'm not saying it's flimsy like a noodle but it definitely has more give to it than any of the Momo's I've had, and my Italvolanti. For the price Scott charges for Renown wheels they should be from a better source than what I've come to find out. For almost half of his cost you can get the exact same wheel that just has a different name on it. At the price point that those are sold for, it makes for a decent budget wheel.
if those ebay wheels are the same thing, that'd be a great deal!
Dan
-
FWIW, VDO does make the appropriate metric threaded sensors
-
The Viilante Leggera is the 130r if you wanted to find them Mike
Thank you for this! But, I think for now tell I can do some more research and make up my mind I'll be running with the original steering wheel.
The threads in the head for the temp sensor are not NPT. It is an M14x1.5 mm straight thread. I don't know what the VDO sensor is but it should not be just cranked in there. The head does not have tapered threads and should seal with a crush washer like the factory sensor, it will not seal otherwise.
I have an Autometer gauge and the sender is 1/8" NPT and I bought an adapter from 1/8 NPT to M14x1.5.
Just so there's no confusion, the threads are actually a M12 x 1.5. The adapters I received yesterday did not come with that size threads (should have double checked before ordering). However, I did get the right one ordered from Auto Meter that should be here tomorrow.
-
What gauge and sensor did you end up buying?
-
What gauge and sensor did you end up buying?
Gauge is a vdo 310105
Sending unit is a vdo 323900 (0-250 degree)
-
Thank you for this! But, I think for now tell I can do some more research and make up my mind I'll be running with the original steering wheel.
Just so there's no confusion, the threads are actually a M12 x 1.5. The adapters I received yesterday did not come with that size threads (should have double checked before ordering). However, I did get the right one ordered from Auto Meter that should be here tomorrow.
Are you installing it where the TB heater nipple came from? I thought that was M12x1.5 and the sensors whether you have 1 or 2 are M14x1.5.
-
Are you installing it where the TB heater nipple came from? I thought that was M12x1.5 and the sensors whether you have 1 or 2 are M14x1.5.
All the threaded holes there are gonna be a M12 x 1.5.
-
Alright, I got me a problem.
Got everything thrown back together on the motor. Went to crank it over, nothin.
No crank just a couple clicks from the abs unit and a humming noise from the IAC valve.
So far I have been able to eliminate the starter and battery from the list of suspects.
Reason for this is because I pulled all the wires off the starter solenoid, pulled the battery from the car and hooked up jumper cables straight to the starter and grounded to the housing. Used the old screwdriver trick and was able to get the starter to spin the engine no problem.
After confirming this I threw everything back together.
Went ahead and pulled the engine ground off and cleaned both sides to confirm a good clean ground as well as all the wires hooked on to the battery cable mounting block in the engine bay and gave it another try, nothin.
Checked power coming to the starter from the main battery cable, got a good constant +12 volts.
Checked power coming to the small post from the ignition wire (black and yellow) while I had a friend turn the key over, +12 volts.
Flipped the relays around between the O2, fuel pump, and starter, nothin.
I'm stumped guys.
-
Here is a link to the ETM. I assume most of the stuff is E30 wiring for the starter anyway. Here is a screenshot, there is no starter relay, if the black/yellow wire at the starter is getting 12V when the key is turned to the start position then there is a bad ground somewhere.
-
did you whisper some sweet nothings in her ear before just sticking the key in?
Dan
-
Here is a link to the ETM. I assume most of the stuff is E30 wiring for the starter anyway. Here is a screenshot, there is no starter relay, if the black/yellow wire at the starter is getting 12V when the key is turned to the start position then there is a bad ground somewhere.
Thank you for this ^
I'll go ahead and check every ground on the car after work to confirm good clean connections.
-
was the car an automatic
-
you started it with the key and same wiring configuration before, correct?
the couple times i couldnt get my car to crank I realized I had the C101 adapter disconnected... oops
-
The car was originally a manual.
-
I never changed any of the wiring up from the last time it ran. Although, nothing was hooked up through the dash for wiring when I started it the first time. Don't know why that would affect it from cranking over though.
C101 connector is hooked up and good to go lol.
-
-
Went through and inspected and cleaned every ground location, turned the key over... nofin.
pulled and tested each of the relays, they are all good.
couple pics of the grounds and wires I checked. I also checked the ground right next to the abs unit and the ground underneath the dash next to the steering colum
Not really sure what to do now
-
Try jumpering pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic connector with a piece of wire. Remember to have the car in neutral and the ignition switched on. Also note if pins 11 and 14 exist in tge connector, they may be bare (this is fine, just explains why jumpering them wouldnt work)
also try jiggling the key as you try cranking to jostle the ignition switch a little bit
-
Does it crank if you use a jumper from the large red wire on the starter to the black/yellow wire? If it does then you know the grounds are all good. If it doesn't then there is a power or ground problem because you said the starter did work when you hooked power directly to it
Next test would be to set your meter to DC volts and put one lead on a body ground and one on the engine block while someone attempts to crank. If you see voltage it means that something isn't grounded, it could be the starter body to the transmission if things are painted, or the engine block to the mount arm that has the ground strap on it.
-
try listing every bit of work you've done since the car was last started. this may narrow down what has changed, and may be causing the issue.
Dan
Hello! It looks like you're interested in this conversation, but you don't have an account yet.
Getting fed up of having to scroll through the same posts each visit? When you register for an account, you'll always come back to exactly where you were before, and choose to be notified of new replies (either via email, or push notification). You'll also be able to save bookmarks and upvote posts to show your appreciation to other community members.
With your input, this post could be even better 💗
Register Login