Joined the Club Today
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I'm excited to see this come together with your spin on it.
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Went to the unit to get some work done. Got less done than I would have liked(shockingly).
Wanted to pull the steering rack from the M3. However, the tie rod end nuts were just spinning after loosening them a bit. Unfortunate, as they are pretty new. So I'll be cutting those tomorrow. With that out should be able to pull the subframe(is it even worth it?).
To not waste the entire trip over there, I started pulling some things(that I could get to) off the motor. Pulled the motor mount arms so I could clean them up and paint them. Pulled the exhaust manifold off, took studs and nuts home to clean(should I get new ones of these or should existing ones be okay to reuse?). Didn't have a 22mm wrench so I will take the O2 sensors off tomorrow.
Hopefully pulling the driveshaft and diff tomorrow.
Just waiting on my ECS order to start replacing some items on the motor.
Also, what fluid am I supposed to using in an orange tag manual ZF trans?? I can find no definitive answer. I can find that it says to just use ATF, some say you're supposed to use a specific kind. BimmerForum thread about it and this BimmerFest thread with C H A R TS
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Trick with the tie rod end nuts is to put a jack under the joint for a little tension --keeps it from spinning enough to remove the nut. Same thing for the control arm ball joint nuts.
The would have been good to know about 3 hours ago haha @SteelBlue
We cut them in half with a Sawzall
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Live and learn lol
I've already got a pair of assemblies in the cart, so not a big deal, but would have preferred to use the ones already there.
Got the driveshaft out today with the help of @ChrisO. Propane torch was very helpful in getting the nuts to loosen. Was in the process of pulling the diff, but we couldn't cut the ebrake cable. Also, the control arm bolts broke at the bottom of the knuckles on the rear. We had enough blade in the sawzall to cut the one of the control arms, but not enough for the second one. Was able to pull the axle out of the diff a little bit on the side we were able to cut, but the ebrake line is preventing it from coming all the way out.
I was able to start breaking down the motor a little bit today as well. @MPW3RLee was able to lend me the clutch fan tool to remove it. Allowed me to pull the thermostat and water pump pulley off. Water pump seems to be seized onto the block a little bit, I removed all 4 corner bolts so it might need some convincing unless there is something I am missing. EDIT: I see you have to use two bolts to back it off. Started removing some off the VCG stuff while I was there as well.
Any recommendations for removing O2 sensors from exhaust manifolds? Would like to use the existing ones and save myself some money, but they seem to be really on there. Can't get a ton of leverage because I can't slip a pipe over the end of the wrench. Maybe just need a bigger pipe.
Motor mount arms and exhaust manifold studs and nuts are getting a CLR bath later.
@MPW3RLee also hooked it up and got my tires mounted on the wheels today. Lookin 乇乂ㄒ尺卂 ㄒ卄丨匚匚
Will probably go a slimmer side wall in the future, but @GunMetalGrey was selling these for cheap.
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Sawzall also works!
Since my go to has often been whaling on things with a BFH, I've been getting better at stepping away and seeking insights from friends/forums as to possible tricks of the trade. Admittedly, I still have several "hammers" and am a work in progress.
Good luck with the project.
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Love those BBS bb
thx
Sawzall also works!
Since my go to has often been whaling on things with a BFH, I've been getting better at stepping away and seeking insights from friends/forums as to possible tricks of the trade. Admittedly, I still have several "hammers" and am a work in progress.
Good luck with the project.
Normally would take my time and do my due diligence, but this car is going to the scarp yard as soon as this diff is out so I've been okay with doing it the hack way.
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So I guess this is the rabbit hole of cars that I've never really experienced.
Trans is gonna have to be disconnected from the motor to get it on the stand to turn it over to do the E34 oil pan modification. If the trans is gonna be off, why not maybe do the rear main seal while it's open? Why not get a new a clutch and fly wheel? Chris had said that the clutch felt good but if I am already in here, it's tempting.
I think I have heard @KaiserRolls talking about Grip Force clutch kits being good? I really don't know the differences between stages, but from some reading, stage 3 seems track oriented. How is this stage 2 kit? This won't be a daily driver, so doesn't need to super comfort oriented.
I was planning to do some of the shifter rebuild stuff while it's exposed, and having the trans off would make cleaning it easier. The motor has 222k, so I feel like I should be doing some of these things, but I don't know enough to judge if it's necessary or not.
Need opinions.
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Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals,
I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them
Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability.
I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving.
Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races.
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Do it all now. At bare minimum do the rear main seal, replace the flywheel and pressure plate bolts, clutch pivot pin, clutch slave, trans input seal, trans output seal, selector and shaft seals,
I did all these things and now my cars nee owner gets to enjoy them
Pretty much any clutch disk with a sprung hub will have very good drivability.
I had a South Bend stage 3 street clutch for my turbo M20 and 24V swap. Its no stock honda civic clutch, but its very good on the street for daily driving.
Avoid 6-puck or unsprung hubs unless you like skid racing and dragon races.
Yeah, it makes sense to just do it now. All added to the cart. When I am selecting the shifter bushing, should I be selecting one for an E36 S52?
Should I be doing the entire RMS assembly? The entire kit or the seal?
Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel?
This is all a first time learning experience so I appreciate the help.
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Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it
The clutch kit looks good to me
(SteveBuscemi.png)
the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install.
While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface.
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Would this be a good option for replacing clutch/flywheel?
I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash
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Im not sure about the shifter bushing on a ZF, but the WIBIMMERS cardinal rule is no Uro brand parts. Uro parts are usually installed with a ban hammer. Chris will let you use his after he is done with it
The clutch kit looks good to me
(SteveBuscemi.png)
the RMS assembly is a convenience. I have always pressed the old seal out, reused the housing, and re-installed the new seal at a slightly different location as there is usually a groove worn into the crank hub. The one on my M52 was the most severe groove I had seen, but offsetting the new seal and using a genuine BMW seal with the seal driver made for a successful install.
While we are on the topic I will mention that there are also Speedi-sleeves that SKF makes in case you find a groove on yours and want to feel better about restoring that smooth sealing surface.
So I should be buying a shifter bushing for a ZF not a 260?
I just bought that exact kit, havent taken it out of the box yet though. I think @AsparagusMike and @KaiserRolls have gripforce setups too, so maybe they can weigh in? I've heard good things considering the price point, just make sure to buy a better quality pilot bearing and throwout bearing because the ones in the kit are apparently trash
@KaiserRolls pls respnd
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you need the shifter bushing specific to the shift carrier. it should be e36 everything for the shifter setup with the ZF trans.
there is a poly(or delrin) shift bushing out there which is a good 'fix it once and never again' upgrade. i wouldn't recommend garagistic, but it was the first i found on a quick search.
Dan
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I have the gripforce stuff in my e30. Toss the TOB and pilot bearing for something of OEM variety (unless they now come with good stuff)
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