Diaries of a Daily Driver
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By reducing exhaust back pressure you will lessen the chance of exploiting a weak spot in the exhaust. Pressure is the resistance to flow
Think of a thin spot in a garden hose, if you plug the end it will bulge at the thin spot (potentially burst), but if you let water flow out it will decrease the bulge and will be much less likely to burst there.While I understand the concept, I don't think it's going to help. The factory exhaust (even with PE mod), is pretty efficient. For example, my free-flowing aftermarket 3" exhaust with a blown-out muffler was still going thru gaskets.
However, I am not against you getting the VRSF exhaust! They sound great and I could even do a vlog about it.
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While I understand the concept, I don't think it's going to help. The factory exhaust (even with PE mod), is pretty efficient. For example, my free-flowing aftermarket 3" exhaust with a blown-out muffler was still going thru gaskets.
However, I am not against you getting the VRSF exhaust! They sound great and I could even do a vlog about it.
Well that's lame to hear lol.
Imagine the YT content bruh, that VSRF content would bring them in droves.
But for real, the quality video's of their exhaust is lacking heavily. Wanna hit em up for the deals? -
Imagine the YT content bruh, that VSRF content would bring them in droves.
But for real, the quality video's of their exhaust is lacking heavily. Wanna hit em up for the deals?Tiago offered a 10% refund on the 7.5" race intercooler once I posted a review of it. I'm sure the exhaust would be in the same ballpark.
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I got beat by an n55 135 that was only utilizing JB4 and the stock fuel system, with a bit of corn.
Time to make this go faster.
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I also installed a hitch receiver.
Going to have to do some work to get the diffuser to fit back under there.The new receiver is nice, but once again the bar that runs front to back on the car doesn't work. The frame doesn't have the holes it says it should. Not sure if I want to drill them considering the most weight this will ever see is 60lb of bikes.
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I opened the garage yesterday and your car looked good from behind. I couldn't put my finger on what was different.
Oddly enough, I think I might like this car more without the rear diffuser.
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I got beat by an n55 135 that was only utilizing JB4 and the stock fuel system, with a bit of corn.
Time to make this go faster.
Just let me know when your ready to go single turbo, that’ll take care of that problem [emoji23]
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I opened the garage yesterday and your car looked good from behind. I couldn't put my finger on what was different.
Oddly enough, I think I might like this car more without the rear diffuser.
You aren't the only one....
I too was walking back to it after class and was pleased with it, maybe it'll stay off for a bit.Just let me know when your ready to go single turbo, that’ll take care of that problem
Current status: Trying not to go down the rabbit hole.
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@patsbimmer1 has gotten out his crystal ball and predicted that in 6 months time I will be going single turbo on this.
The clock has started.Anyone wanna place bets?
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Did some preventative performance this weekend and installed a new pipe from the upper intercooler connection to the throttle body. Apparently these like to blow apart so I figured I may as well take care of it before then.
Old one out
New one in
I also realized that the lower connection to the intercooler is plastic, so I will likely be finding a replacement for that.
Picked up some heavily discounted inlets because I can't help myself.
Those will likely go in some time this week.
I also fixed the rusty plate holder that was dripping rust and had the plate held in with cable ties.
Jake pointed out how spotted my rotors were getting, which isn't surprising given the fact that they seem to start vibrating fairly aggressively when hot, and the whole brake setup has never been that great in my opinion.
I may end up changing out the pads and rotors. We shall see.
I am pretty sure the exhaust gaskets I just did are blowing out again as well. Time to find MLS variants
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Sweet.
That lower charge pipe is an upgradable option via VRSF. I'm sure you can contact them and they will sell it individually if you want it.
PS: Make sure the allen screw is tight in the charge pipe. A lot of them are sold loose, then eventually fall out and people get a massive boost leak.
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Sweet.
That lower charge pipe is an upgradable option via VRSF. I'm sure you can contact them and they will sell it individually if you want it.
PS: Make sure the allen screw is tight in the charge pipe. A lot of them are sold loose, then eventually fall out and people get a massive boost leak.
Yeah I found the lower pipe as a standalone from them this morning.
I assume you are talking about the two small set screws in bungs on the upper pipe. I tightened them down, and could see that being a real problem if you didn't lol. Thanks for the heads up!
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My passenger side headlight was aimed at the ground yesterday.
Either the adjuster popped out, or it was grumpy about the humidity.Time will tell.
New brake rotors are needed badly, it pulses now and the wheel shakes under braking, very similar to the first time I test drove it.
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The brakes were getting irritating so they got replaced.
I forgot to buy wear sensors, but it looks like the plugs were cut and the sensors must have been coded out at some point because there are no sensors and no codes.Centric high carbon rotors with EBC red stuff pads. I also adjusted the parking brake while I was in there, and everything is feeling much gooderer.
Only one rotor retaining screw gave me hell.
Tried drilling and that wasn't going super well, so I welded a bolt into it, and twisted the bolt head off, then welded a nut to it and luckily that solved the problem.
Initial impressions of the brakes are good, they bite better than whatever was in there before and the lack of a shaking steering wheel is oh so nice.
Headlight returned to normal operation as well.
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Nice. The wear sensor wires are probably shorted. If you cut off the sensor and twist/solder/crimp the wires together, the light goes away.
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They were shorted after the plug so new sensors could be put in if you wanted. I inspected the brakes frequent enough between regular rotations that I didn't find them necessary.
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Nice. The wear sensor wires are probably shorted. If you cut off the sensor and twist/solder/crimp the wires together, the light goes away.
a design that BMW hasnt changed since the 70s. i'm honestly surprised they didnt muck it up with some techno-wizardry sensor apparatus that needs coding.
Dan
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They were shorted after the plug so new sensors could be put in if you wanted. I inspected the brakes frequent enough between regular rotations that I didn't find them necessary.
I did the same thing on my car
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a design that BMW hasnt changed since the 70s. i'm honestly surprised they didnt muck it up with some techno-wizardry sensor apparatus that needs coding.
That gave me a horribly great idea. They should put a sensor inside the caliper that measures the extension of the piston. So you have to replace or rebuild the caliper when it fails. Also it will need a module too control the inputs because it's tied into the abs system.
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