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  4. My slow e30 project.

My slow e30 project.

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  • B
    B
    B C
    wrote on last edited by
    #25

    UUC.jpg

    image.thumb.png.4d39ecd91e43827722aadd88222a6ec4.png

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    • Ryan...R
      Ryan...R
      Ryan...
      wrote on last edited by
      #26

      I don't think I've ever purchased anything from them.

      My IS lip, fogs, and some tinty stuff showed up. Now I just have to find my motivation to go down and start working on the car again..

      2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

      2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

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      • jc43089J
        jc43089J
        jc43089
        wrote on last edited by
        #27

        snap said:

        UUC.jpg

        image.thumb.png.4d39ecd91e43827722aadd88222a6ec4.png

        They run sales sometimes.  I have their aluminum flywheel/ E34 M5 clutch combo on the engine that is going into the van, best upgrade I ever did on that car.  It is so much better to drive.  If they weren't so expensive and a bunch of work to install I would put one in my high mileage beater.

        2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
        3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
        '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

        '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

        '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
        '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
        '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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        • Ryan...R
          Ryan...R
          Ryan...
          wrote on last edited by
          #28

          Race car stuff...

          Installed the new catback, thinking I'll be due up for a new universal catalytic converter, my try my luck with some long time headers at the same time.

          Installed strut bar, stayed process of removing extra weight from the car. Eventually a passenger seat will be reinstalled, looking at aftermarket options for seats.

          Also realized my car has an open 4.10 rear diff according to the tag.. mitac hasn't worked the entire time I've owned the car, but it did always feel like it was revving quite high at 65/70..

          e61e559da64fcc220f285ceb5d7badc6.jpgaba54c4c6686a89cbc6004c2d5e830b5.jpgf5e312fdb3a411aa3ba2bfdb380189df.jpg

          Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

          2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

          2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • Ryan...R
            Ryan...R
            Ryan...
            wrote on last edited by
            #29

            Even with that relatively small amount of weight removed (going to attempt to weigh what's removed so far), the car does feel "better" which may all just be in my head, maybe not :) 

            Next up I'll be removing the sound deadening material from the rear seat area, re-taping the wires to make it look cleaner, removing carpeting and sound deadening material from the trunk, and removing the AC components as they don't work anyway. Once the interior stuff is removed I'll likely be repainting it red when I repaint the car.

            2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

            2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

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            0
            • KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRollsK
              KaiserRolls
              wrote on last edited by
              #30

              Ryan... said:

              , re-taping the wires to make it look cleaner, 

              Please don’t use tape, use split loom harness

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              • Ryan...R
                Ryan...R
                Ryan...
                wrote on last edited by
                #31

                KaiserRolls said:

                Please don’t use tape, use split loom harness

                That would work too, the stuff I was thinking of wasn't actually tape, it looked to be more similar to a thin foamy type tape, if that makes any sense. I saw a couple guys on R3V use it and thought it looked clean.

                I also just use this, then zip-tie/electric tape this closed over the wires:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085CJ4RK/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38Z015AJ7I755

                2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

                2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • B
                  B
                  B C
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #32

                  I dont care if its not a substantial gain on a dyno or racetrack, feeling tiny improvements here and there is very satisfying.

                  Certain long tubes may be a PITA for sway bar clearance and may scrape on the ground from when I had researched them. Im excited about this thread because NA M20 builds are almost non-existent around here.

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                  • Ryan...R
                    Ryan...R
                    Ryan...
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #33

                    snap said:

                    I dont care if its not a substantial gain on a dyno or racetrack, feeling tiny improvements here and there is very satisfying.

                    Certain long tubes may be a PITA for sway bar clearance and may scrape on the ground from when I had researched them. Im excited about this thread because NA M20 builds are almost non-existent around here.

                    I'm pretty excited about where it's headed. Once I got it into my head that I wasn't going to trick myself into thinking a turbo was going to happen (I've been down that road before, at least 800 times), I've become more excited about achieving smaller gains and just having fun with it. I don't need a rocket ship here, and I've finally got a clean base car to just play with.

                    That being said, I know that I'll be looking long and hard at Megasquirt and ITBs down the line. Before that though, I'll likely reach the point where I just yank the engine out for a refresh because it's hella dirty and I'd want everything up to spec before dumping money into the aforementioned upgrades.

                    2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

                    2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

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                    • B
                      B
                      B C
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #34

                      Reliability is king.

                      The best E30 I ever had the pleasure of driving had a built NA M20 and there was no want for more power. it was perfect.

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                      • KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRollsK
                        KaiserRolls
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #35

                        Ryan... said:

                        That would work too, the stuff I was thinking of wasn't actually tape, it looked to be more similar to a thin foamy type tape, if that makes any sense. I saw a couple guys on R3V use it and thought it looked clean.
                         
                        I also just use this, then zip-tie/electric tape this closed over the wires:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085CJ4RK/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A38Z015AJ7I755

                        That’s the exact stuff we use. It closes on itself. Only reason you’d need tape or a ziptie is to make sure the ends don’t shift around, which shouldn’t happen if it’s sized correctly

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                        0
                        • Ryan...R
                          Ryan...R
                          Ryan...
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #36

                          snap said:

                          Reliability is king.

                          The best E30 I ever had the pleasure of driving had a built NA M20 and there was no want for more power. it was perfect. 

                          Precisely, I fully intend to go play around at Blackhawk while retaining the ability to drive to/from work in the warmer months. I don't want to play around with a finicky turbo setup or monster power build.

                          KaiserRolls said:

                          That’s the exact stuff we use. It closes on itself. Only reason you’d need tape or a ziptie is to make sure the ends don’t shift around, which shouldn’t happen if it’s sized correctly

                          Perfect, I didn't know it would close on itself..

                          2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

                          2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

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                          0
                          • B
                            B
                            B C
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #37

                            I personally think the IE shorties are the best headers for the M20. They improved on the design of the MSDS headers, they will not be a PITA to remove, and will flow substantially better than stock. I was actually thinking about running the IE shorty headers and modifying them for turbo use.  Get a set for cheap, get them ceramic coated, and enjoy them not being a pain in the ass.

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                            0
                            • Ryan...R
                              Ryan...R
                              Ryan...
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #38

                              snap said:

                              I personally think the IE shorties are the best headers for the M20. They improved on the design of the MSDS headers, they will not be a PITA to remove, and will flow substantially better than stock. I was actually thinking about running the IE shorty headers and modifying them for turbo use.  Get a set for cheap, get them ceramic coated, and enjoy them not being a pain in the ass.   

                               

                              That may be a good option... I will need to replace the cat anyway, so I could just have my exhaust bro fab up a mid section with a universal cat connecting the headers to my existing catback...

                              2021 Gladiator Willys -- 6 speed manual, 33" Falken AT, 3/4" level

                              2021 Low Rider S -- Stage 2, 117hp/128ft lbs

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                Boris3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #39

                                As Snap said reliability is the key. Granted wrenching is fun but it's no fun if the car is breaking down on you especially if you've paid for track time.

                                1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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