Migrating The Family truckster E38 to ?
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N54's are great but there are going to be things that become consumables that you never expected. Ignition coils every 40k - 80k, water pump every 50k - 60k, injectors possibly once and spark plugs every year just off the top of my head.
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I have been reading up on the N54 quirks and it seems to be M54 issues + Injectors, turbos, wastegates, etc. these all seem to go by 100k mi. and many get replaced under extended warranty/recall. Finding the right one is going to be the key. The "right seller" will have pored a ton of money into all these repairs and want out.
The E60 question is harder to answer. the common advised solution is "buy an extended warranty" I would expect the common brakes, bushings and ball joints, but what the ##$@ is a $1500 hydraulically assisted sway bar. On top of EDC shocks.
The E60 community is nothing like the E34 & E38 groups even though the cars are getting old, not many people wrenching on these like the older cars.
Found the "So You Just Bought an E60" write-up, and it's making me grey just looking at it.
I see a lot of seat time in front of the PC coding the car. not just wrenching.
Anyone got hands on experience in the E60 world? What falls apart in the Rust Belt beyond the usual list?
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It sounds like you are looking for someone to say "it's not as complicated as you think" which is true. You just need to invest in new tools and broaden your skill set to include computers for some items. Also, yes, cars that were expensive new still have expensive parts on them that may be expensive when replaced 10+ years later. New BMW's don't really rust either because of the materials used. They corrode if they aren't washed regularly but that only makes disassembly difficult.
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Actually, I'm looking for the opposite, someone to tell me "forget it, stick with what you know (E3X cars). Why would you want put yourself through all that" .
Yet, as long as she is driving a Bimmer, she is more understanding to my addiction and the rest of the fleet. Happy wife, bimmer life.
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Actually, I'm looking for the opposite, someone to tell me "forget it, stick with what you know (E3X cars). Why would you want put yourself through all that" .
Yet, as long as she is driving a Bimmer, she is more understanding to my addiction and the rest of the fleet. Happy wife, bimmer life.
We're saying the same thing just different ways. So, buy the damn car and spread your horizons.
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I have been reading up on the N54 quirks and it seems to be M54 issues + Injectors, turbos, wastegates, etc. these all seem to go by 100k mi. and many get replaced under extended warranty/recall. Finding the right one is going to be the key. The "right seller" will have pored a ton of money into all these repairs and want out.
The E60 question is harder to answer. the common advised solution is "buy an extended warranty" I would expect the common brakes, bushings and ball joints, but what the ##$@ is a $1500 hydraulically assisted sway bar. On top of EDC shocks.
It it is better to get the higher mileage car that has already had all the major repairs done then the low mileage one that is going to need them. As long as the body isn't rusting and showing signs of wear.
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That's the only way to go. Buy them @130k with good service history and all the normal stuff done. You get it for about $3k less and save $2k getting it all sorted. All for another 40k on the clock. I have followed this recipe for a decade. The rust problem is solved by not buying local.
Now off to find the right car. No big hurry.
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Found a nice '10 535i Msport with full dealer service records and got some questions before I buy it. Looking for group input.
Car has 120K mi and full dealer service. 16k OCI, no trans fluid service, brakes done, VC replaced, OFH leak fixed, Expansion tank done, Fuel and ignition system replaced, O2's replaced.
No record of repairs to water pump, turbos, or suspension, and has a light oil pan leak.
Should I use the needed service to negotiate a better deal or cut and run?
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I figure the oil pan gasket is a low $, high DIY scale item compared to other big ticket items on these.
The turbos and trans would be my big worries with the factory OCI's
The turbo isn't an issue on these. Even when neglected the single turbo on the n55 didn't develop the same issues as the twins on the n54. Trans isn't an issue either. There was a concern with the trans not staying in sport mode but it's easily fixed if you know how to solder.
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I thought E60's only got the N54. never seen one with a N55.
You're right! My fault, I was thinking it was an F10 not an E60. In that case, your turbo's may be an issue at some point. You could try and negotiate it but if they're not making any noise I don't know how many lot's are going to really make up the cost to repair in the sale price. My comments about the trans remain the same.
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I hate cars in the mileage range you are looking at here. It is simply statistics that 120k miles on a 535 without any major stuff being broken/fixed yet is a significant risk for bigger repairs coming soon. Anything to the contrary said by anyone who talks about their personal experience with a small handful of cars is anecdotal at best. Many cars simply are at risk to start needing some bigger ticket items between 100-125k miles, give or take. To me it's worse with these later model vehicles because there is just more to go wrong over time as a result of ever-increasing features and tech. There is a reason that extended manufacturer warranties run out between 72k and 100k. The price on that car has got to be just absolutely dirt cheap and I still wouldn't touch it.
And that's saying a lot coming from a guy who is about to spend $1600 to "proactively" replace rod bearings because he drives a car that is known to eat its own $15k engine.
2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
2007 Z4MR
2003 E39 M5
2002 E46 M3
2021 X5 40i -
The 80-120k mi car market is the no go zone in my book. The premium on cars under 100Kmi is almost 50% over those above 120k, and for that you get to repair all the parts that wear our from the 1st 100k of use. The car in question has already incurred ~$8k of dealer service in the zone, yet by my estimate it still needs ~$3k(dealer $) of immediate needs and additional $4k(dealer $) of proactive/ risk repairs.
DIY allows me to bring all that down to a manageable $1500 part cost , rest is sweat equity.
As most people would say " you have to be insane to own these out of warranty". With DIY and group of friends stricken with the same disease we can make this work for ~25% of the MSRP
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I totally agree with the thought that paying a huge premium for one with slightly less miles is not a good deal. I would rather get a car that needs some work for much cheaper than one that is pretty good now but you will be replacing all the same parts very soon anyway.
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I am impressed that you had the diligence to wait for nearly a full year to the day to get the right car. This thread started last year in March LOL. Glad you found something.
2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
2007 Z4MR
2003 E39 M5
2002 E46 M3
2021 X5 40i
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