2.1 high boost m10
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What boost? Lets assume i am building NA 100hp 2.1 liter m10 for now.
Lets get back to the question.
A. Deck the block to achieve zero deck
B. Mill the pistons to get the zero deck
C. Let the pistons poke out the block and use thicker HG
Also the reason for the vw type 1 pistons is that they are cheap.
$350-420 for a set of four forged mahles or JEs is really attractive when you compare it to a 800-1000 for a set of custom ones
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How about milling 1.5mm from the piston? They are claiming the got some extra meat to allow for valve pockets
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I would use the thicker headgasket.
If you are running e85 stick with the higher compression.
If for whatever reason you want to switch it up you can always tear it down with the HG. Shaving the piston however you can not.
People may say you are doing it the hack way by using the thicker HG, but you are just doing it different than oem. There is more than one way to microwave a cat.
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How about milling 1.5mm from the piston? They are claiming the got some extra meat to allow for valve pockets
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Maybe... I'd want a drawing or something more to go on than the blurb.
If that's a picture of the actual kit, I'd check on the pins too. I know when you order custom pistons, you can choose different pins for lightweight/high rpm, or something a bit more stout for boosted applications.
Good luck with the project btw. I've read a lot about engine building over the years, but don't have much experience myself. Some day I'd like to get crazy with the cheez whiz and build something cool like this.
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Well instead of machining the top of the piston and the valve reliefs down I made a custom MLS head gasket to keep valve clearances tolerable. Also made longer dowels for the Cylinder head alignment. I am not ver familiar with the M10 engine. A few things to keep in mind is make sure you have The extra slack in the timing chain or belt. Try to keep enough clearance between the valves and piston for thermal expansion.
1976 530i e12
1990 325ix e30
1992 325i e36
1995 740il e38
2001 330xi e46
^More to come
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Jeff has very solid advice here. Distance between crank and cam centerlines is quite critical in maintaining proper tolerances so your pistons do not eat the valves for lunch, preventing detonation during periods of high load with low(ish) RPM etc etc.
Also, Get the Mahle or JE custom pistons, W do it right the first time and then smack the redline silly with the tach needle for years to come. Wiseco also makes a decent product. I opted for factory Goetze rings when putting my M30B34 back together and she purrs like a kitten.
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