chit chat thread
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Good deal. The econo power battery is a refurbished unit from Interstate. I have an account with them and those batteries are only $35 regardless of the size with a 1 year warranty.
Interesting, well it didn't stand up to being hooked up backwards.
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Interesting, well it didn't stand up to being hooked up backwards.
So is it fixed now? New battery and fuse and on you're on your merry way?
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
So is it fixed now? New battery and fuse and on you're on your merry way?
No tried a new battery dome light and dash lights come on, key no turn. Main fuses are under passenger carpet and some panels hopefully Sunday I'll be able to go outside.
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Dug into it today, simple fix eliminated. It appears someone else has dug into this already. Some of the nuts and such were put on hand tight the fuse covers were all removed. The main fuses are good. I couldn't get my star diagnostics to hook up when I looked at it. Going to try a few things but if it doesn't work, stripping her.
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Did some more checking of stuff on the van. Spindles are a straight line through the strut attachment, hub, and ball joint so no geometry changes by swapping left - right. The ball joints are different and need to be kept on the correct side but it needs new ones anyway.
Bolted on the other side. I need to swap calipers too because of the bleeder location and also how the hose comes out. But the stock hose will work fine. I also need to swap the struts so that the sway bar link mount is on the front too. The sway bar is curved to go around the steering rack. I will just fabricate mounts for the BMW steering rack and Toyota sway bar in front.
Steering rack, you can see how it's totally in the way here. The rear driveshaft went between the subframe and steering rack so that is roughly where the centerline of the crankshaft needs to be.
And with the steering rack and sway bar removed. I know I will have to notch the subframe for the oil pan/bellhousing. I might removed the whole rear part and make a bolt in part that attaches to the body mount bolts. Not totally sure yet.
Hoping that the shop I am working at has some lift availability next Saturday to try fitting the engine and building engine mounts.
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Rear sump. The front sump would not have given me enough clearance anyway and the rear sump is what I have already. My wife said whatever is cheaper to get the van on the road. 1200 to rebuild the Toyota transmission and probably another 300 minimum on engine seals and "while it's out" type things gives me some room to work with. And I can sell the 3MZ engine, it ran excellent, 172k miles. It wouldn't be cheaper if I didn't already have a whole BMW drivetrain ready to go. After work I need to shorten my m54b30 cam gear so I can get it closed up. This engine is the one from my 94. It's .020 overbore, light pistons, UUC flywheel w/ M5 clutch and the m54b30 intake cam. Hopefully the stock tune works ok with the bigger cam? Thoughts? I never ran it with the cam yet. Still won't be quite the stock 3MZ-FE power but good enough.
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Dug into it today, simple fix eliminated. It appears someone else has dug into this already. Some of the nuts and such were put on hand tight the fuse covers were all removed. The main fuses are good. I couldn't get my star diagnostics to hook up when I looked at it. Going to try a few things but if it doesn't work, stripping her.
Super big bummer.
https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/ http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/
🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32 🧪SOLD HCH ES9 - 1.3 LDA
👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
☠️BMW E36 318i - Ford 5.0 FE302 🚴♂️ GT-Labomba - 26x2.75 Freeride
🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Wait...so what is going in the 94?
Nothing right now, it's from the Arctic Gray sedan I took apart 2 years ago and I thought this would be fun and might as well use the engine in the meantime. It will probably go back in it someday. I still need to get my shop done before I can finish it. And we are making a push to pay off our house in the next couple years so I may or may not fit the concrete work in this summer which is the next step. It depends on how much overtime I work.
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Rear sump. The front sump would not have given me enough clearance anyway and the rear sump is what I have already. My wife said whatever is cheaper to get the van on the road. 1200 to rebuild the Toyota transmission and probably another 300 minimum on engine seals and "while it's out" type things gives me some room to work with. And I can sell the 3MZ engine, it ran excellent, 172k miles. It wouldn't be cheaper if I didn't already have a whole BMW drivetrain ready to go. After work I need to shorten my m54b30 cam gear so I can get it closed up. This engine is the one from my 94. It's .020 overbore, light pistons, UUC flywheel w/ M5 clutch and the m54b30 intake cam. Hopefully the stock tune works ok with the bigger cam? Thoughts? I never ran it with the cam yet. Still won't be quite the stock 3MZ-FE power but good enough.
Bigger cams in the bmw world is different than bigger cams in the ls world.
they will work fine on stock tune just like any engine mod is best with a tune.
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Bigger cams in the bmw world is different than bigger cams in the ls world.
they will work fine on stock tune just like any engine mod is best with a tune.
Good deal! I'll just giver. I cut the cam gear down last night, it cut no problem on a lathe with carbide tooling.
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Going to look at an '06 530xi with a guy from work tonight, he would like to buy it if it is nice. I think around 160k on it. Any odd stuff to look at with the N52 and AWD? I think they are asking 4900. It has an oil leak, filter housing I assume which looks really easy on the N52, and also the window has a crack but not sure how bad.
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Going to look at an '06 530xi with a guy from work tonight, he would like to buy it if it is nice. I think around 160k on it. Any odd stuff to look at with the N52 and AWD? I think they are asking 4900. It has an oil leak, filter housing I assume which looks really easy on the N52, and also the window has a crack but not sure how bad.
I've been doing a lot of reading/research on N52 powered cars since I'm casually looking for an e91. All N52's seem to have a problem with broken bolts on the valve covers and oil pans that cause oil leaks. These bolts are made of aluminum and I guess they eventually fatigue fail as a result of all the heat cycling. The valve cover gasket isn't horrible to do, but the oil pan requires the subframe/etc to be removed and is a fairly substantial job. The most important thing to be aware of on an '06 is the head bolts as they are also prone to breaking. It seems that BMW fixed this problem for the '07+ models. Not sure how you'd check for it though. Other common failure points are the electric water pump ($400 for just the part from BMW, $300 aftermarket) and thermostat.
I've also heard from Andy and others that have experience with these that if the serpentine belt fails, it can get pulled behind the crank pulley and through the front crank seal and potentially destroy the engine. So check on the condition of the belt/tensioners, if they're original at 160k I'd consider replacing them asap.
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FWIW, I've had multiple serpentine belt failures on the variety of E82 and E9X cars I've owned. None of them got sucked in through the front seal.
It CAN happen, but isn't the common result. For peace of mind, I'd inspect and replace the belt if you see any wear signs. Doesn't hurt to replace OFH gaskets if it is seeping or weeping oil. Over time, the oil can drip on the belt and that isn't good.
I did the oil pan gasket on my 135i when the subframe was down while replacing turbos. It was leaking. I think the valve cover gasket was seeping as well. Both should be inspected. When you change the valve cover gasket, inspect the cover itself. They are plastic and can have very small cracks (bad), or can be warped. It is best practice to replace the cover and the gasket at the same time... even though it hurts the wallet.
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Good stuff, thanks! Good bargaining point if something like the valve cover is cracked etc to know how much parts cost. According to realoem this one has a metal valve cover, looks like that ended mid year '07. I wonder if while doing the valve cover gasket it would be wise to replace the head bolts one at a time?
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