E30 M52

[m42b32]

DrLeadFoot said:

Snaps at 24 valves and I'm soon to be at 16

You'll love the M42 swap! It's not too fast, but really fun to beat on

[DrLeadFoot]

m42b32 said:

DrLeadFoot said:

Snaps at 24 valves and I'm soon to be at 16

You'll love the M42 swap! It's not too fast, but really fun to beat on

Lol, can't wait!

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[B C]

The wiring harness cover wasn’t meant to be. 2 of the 3 pieces will stay but the main front/center piece just needs more wire bending, squeezing, and smashing than I can feel good about. Braided split loom it is then.

This post from R3V makes me feel better about the struggle

I have also ordered a few misc bits such as the beauty cover nut covers, throttle linkage clip, new rear roundel, aaand the thickest available spring pads for the top and bottom on the rear springs just to give myself hopefully an extra 3/8” or so more height in the rear for a tiny bit more rake.

Not a lot left to do until exhaust parts and brake MC show up

[KaiserRolls]

Snap said:

The wiring harness cover wasn’t meant to be. 2 of the 3 pieces will stay but the main front/center piece just needs more wire bending, squeezing, and smashing than I can feel good about. Braided split loom it is then.

This post from R3V makes me feel better about the struggle

I have also ordered a few misc bits such as the beauty cover nut covers, throttle linkage clip, new rear roundel, aaand the thickest available spring pads for the top and bottom on the rear springs just to give myself hopefully an extra 3/8” or so more height in the rear for a tiny bit more rake.

Not a lot left to do until exhaust parts and brake MC show up

Condom motorsports makes some spring pad risers for the rear

[B C]

Good to know. This old rubber is pretty worn out and permanently deformed so I dont mind replacing it. That may be a next step though

[B C]

Figuring out some of the final details on the exhaust system....its the last significant task left on this swap before the car is drivable

Besides that its just installing the valence+hood and putting a few finishing touches on things

[B C]

In case anyone else here doing a 24v swap, either now or in the future needs a solution for the y-pipe, this is mine.

-Vibrant 10356 Y-pipe (SS), 2.25” ID inlets, 3.0” OD outlet

-Vibrant 63004 3” Flex pipe

-Summit Racing M18x1.5 SS O2 sensor bung (SUM-G2990SS)

-2.25” OD .120” wall (2.010” ID) mild steel DOM tubing

-2.00” OD .065” wall mild steel DOM tubing

-2.00” Band clamps (butt-joint)

-3” SS V-band flanges (piloted!!!)

The rest of the exhaust system is carried over from my turbo setup and is 3” stainless exhaust pipe, a 12” Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator, Vibrant Streetpower muffler and actually because a 24v sounds like a bowl of raspberries I will be adding an additional 18” Vibrant bottle resonator.

The y-pipe is decently thin wall at .049” that isnt uncommon for exhaust tubing but considering that the inlets are nearly touching, getting a weld all the way around could be tricky. That isnt my main issue though. The main issue is the header outlets. They are 2.0” OD tubes but strangely one of them tapers down to 1.75” OD. I dont understand why.

I will be cutting the 1.75” section off so I can just have (2) 2” tubes to work with.

To adapt the Y-pipe inlets down from 2.25 ID to 2.0 OD I inserted the 2.25 OD .120 wall tubing in as far as I could (very snug fit, had to heat the y-pipe up in the oven a bit after deburring the edges to get them to slide together)

Once I did this I sawed the tubes flush (see the image below with one sawed off and one just about to be) and ground them smooth.

.

This leaves me with heavy wall inlets that are better for welding and has a 2.010” ID which allows me to telescope the tubes yet again by inserting the 2.0” OD .065 wall tube and weld all 3 tubes together with plenty of space to get a complete weld bead in the middle.

2.0” OD tube inside the y-pipe with the sawed off reducer (the edges are blended so it just looks like one heavy wall tube instead of the .049 wall y-pipe and .120 wall DOM tube together)

Next I will drill the hole for the O2 bung then crawl under the car to take some measurements, then I can drop by our favorite resident bass fisherman for some welding [emoji16]

[KaiserRolls]

They taper because the stock midsection is a slip fit with a clamp

[i_love_cars]

I have recently seen this engine bay in person and can confirm there is an actual 24v engine in it, and things do look as clean as the photos(hopped) suggest. There will be cruises soon, I just know it.

[Jdesign]

I second the size differences because of a slip fit. If you use thinner exhaust tubing/piping, you can buy an expanded kit from HF and I have found that to work wonders when making misc tubes fit together. It seems like you have a very good and ultimately better solution though

[HipMF]

Someone mentioned tubing expanders, so I'm posting this. Possibly NSFW...?

7hOXm1o.mp4

Attachments:

• 7hOXm1o.mp4

[B C]

That was awesome!

[Jdesign]

That's sweet. It reminds me of this CNC tubing bender.

[m42b32]

Jdesign said:

That's sweet. It reminds me of this CNC tubing bender.

Awesome! You could make some wild headers on something like that

[B C]

DANGIT, BOBBY!

I am installing my brake master cylinder right now and the charcoal canister wont fit anymore and needs to come out (okay, its out) and as im installing the two nuts that hold the master cylinder on, one of them is just spinning. 🤯

So I am inside cooling down so I dont rage and just stick an impact gun on it out of spite.

Im going to assume it is splined like a wheel stud and will try pulling the stud towards the front of the car before cursing up a storm and pulling the manifold and booster out.

*serenity now*

[KaiserRolls]

Jb weld

[B C]

I cut the spinning nut off with a dremel and ground away some paint for a tack weld. I believe I should have enough clearance for a small tack since the master cylinder has voids.

[Jeff]

Snap said:

I cut the spinning nut off with a dremel and ground away some paint for a tack weld. I believe I should have enough clearance for a small tack since the master cylinder has voids.

Depends on if the taaack weld you lay on there matches or has a smaller radius then the chamfer on the master cylinder. I suggest you get a set or these to make sure.

[HipMF]

also, aren't there meltable things inside the booster? Like a big diaphragm? Don't put a hole in it with a piece of weld spatter.

[GunMetalGrey]

Snap said:

 Between a reman. booster (not a 36 year old used one)

A 36 year old used one is probably sounding pretty good right about now eh? 

Looks like a bit of weld should help, or JB Weld!