the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
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ARP head studs and stock HG thickness? Or did I not see it correctly
That is correct.
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For the stuck piece of the subframe sleeve you can try threading in a big lag bolt and see if that gives you enough bite and leverage to remove it, unlikely but still worth a try. If that doesn't work it's time for a small hole bit or a large drill bit and just hone out the aluminum. Wear eye protection, the small pieces fly around.
I'll give that a try. Might even put a little heat on it as well.
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Fuck - you got me.
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For the bushing leftovers I usually took a small drill bit and drilled holes on opposite sides (as close to the edge as possible) and you end up with the leftovers split in two. Easy to hit them with a screwdriver (or chisel) from the edge and spin them which usually results in them dropping right out.
Did you have your block resurfaced?
As for the fuel tank nut I have some cool reverse fluted rounded nut removers that work really well for things of that nature. Hell maybe I'll even track down those vanos tools and come visit you and lend a hand.
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Late update:
Cams all twerked down. No issues there.
As for the car and the few issues there.
Gas tank bolt, I took a 12 mm deep well socket ( the nut is suppose to be a 13) and hammered it on there with an extension. Hooked it up to the impact wrench and the nut came right out! After a little rejoicing I went over to the floor jack and loosened the handle to see if it would break free...No go. Wtf! So I crawl back under there to find that I had missed a bolt and guess what, Fucking rounded!
So I grabbed my 12 mm socket and extension and hammered it on once again, hooked up the impact...
As for the sub frame bushing epidemic. I tried the threading and bolt trick. Woohoo! no success here either. Except the fact that I was able to chip off another small little piece of it.
Other then messing around with that Sunday night for a few hours no other real progress was made.
As for the holidays right around the corner, work load is slamming hard the last few days tell the weekend and then a few days to relax and some personal time and hopefully use a bit of it on cranking out some more stuff on the motor.
As for my top to do's to get done in the upcoming weeks...(goals)
- Get the damn gas tank out and Bushing sleeve
- Finish dissembling the trailing arms
- Send front and rear sub frame +trailing arms to get blasted
- Vanos rebuild
- Get cam gears installed, motor timed, and vanos installed.
- Order more engine parts
- Finish up removing whatever else in the engine bay.
- Hopefully get frames and trailing arms back to start reinforcing.
- Clean up car removing grease and grim plus small rust spots on under body
- Once brake lines and fuel lines are removed. Possibly re-undercoat the under body of the car
- Start installing/routing new brake lines and fuel lines.
- Install more engine parts and hopefully get around to start messing with the engine wiring harness.
Now there is definitely some other things in between that I know I'm missing out but just can't remember at the moment, but the plans are to follow right along this path hopefully. Time will tell.
Also, hopefully gonna be picking up the e36 m3 steering rack tomorrow, as long as the dude doesn't forget about it.
Aaaaaaand, Just checking to make sure I got the right one. Whats the part # on the m20 coolant sensor needed? Thx!
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Did you have your block resurfaced?
According to the machinist the block surface was in good shape and in no need of a resurfacing.
Hell maybe I'll even track down those vanos tools and come visit you and lend a hand.
That would be great! I could definitely use a expert look over after I time the motor to make sure everything is correct and good to go as well as getting that vanos rebuilt pronto.
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This all feels so familiar to me except for the few weekends I spent with Helicoils.
I am using temp sender # 12621710511 (brown connector with 1 pin)
Feel free to reach out to me if you are in doubt with any of the timing procedure. It isn't hard but some of the information available isn't as clear or complete as I would have liked it to be.
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These guys work wonders for rounded bolts. If you dont have a set, you are welcome to borrow mine.
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Need a set of these for the tool collection. Picture looks like the Craftsman set?
Yes. The picture I posted has a couple more sizes than my set, but my set is also like 10 years old. Has paid for itself time and time again.
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As for the sub frame bushing epidemic. I tried the threading and bolt trick. Woohoo! no success here either. Except the fact that I was able to chip off another small little piece of it.
Get a bigger lag bolt. Use an overly aggressive impact and really slam it in there, and then bash the shit tits out of it with a BFH. Heat wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Also I am curious as to why you have a build thread here and not in the "members BMWs" section? I always forget this thread exists.
Nice Progress BTW!
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👽BMW E30 325IC - Toyota 1JZ-GTE ⏰ HONDA EF9 CIVIC SI - JDM B18C5
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🤹♀️SOLD BMW E36/7 Z3 - BMW M54B25 🧓SOLD BMW E10 2002 - BMW M10M05 -
Need a set of these for the tool collection. Picture looks like the Craftsman set?
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i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.
Dan
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i think this forum is 7 for 7 on those subframe bushings being assholes. i dread doing mine in the future.
7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox
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7/8 - mine were cake, and I have a rusty shitbox
7/9. Mine came out fairly easily once I figured out the 5/8" lag-bolt, 1/2" steel rod, and a BFH trick.
Sounds like the best option for getting them out if a bolt and hammer doesn't work is just keep chipping away with drills and dremel bits...good luck!
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These guys work wonders for rounded bolts. If you dont have a set, you are welcome to borrow mine.
I have a set, and you are correct, they save lives.
The Bentley manual (E36) is perfect for how to time the M5x/S5x motors. Just ask @KaiserRolls, it's a good reference.
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The spot where the Bentley wasn't clear enough for me is the primary exhaust sprocket position and the timing chain tensioner.
Maybe im remembering wrong and its very clear in the Bentley but my biggest question was WHEN to reinstall the chain tensioner/torque the primary exhaust sprocket bolts and also the relative position of the holes/slots
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