the one and only e30 s52 engine swap
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Came in yesterday
And all the pistons are installed and torqued to spec. Double checked, triple checked, quadruple checked, quintuple checked, sextuple checked, septuple checked, and octuple checked the torque on the main studs and rod bolts before confirming the Bottom end is done.
Now that the pistons and crank and what not are done its time for cleaning more parts and ordering gaskets and seals.
So, while I waited for the rings to show up I began to get needed things done, first up, drill oil pump nut...
Probably one of the hardest things I've ever had to drill because of the angle and it would have been easier if I had a vise for the drill press but all in all it ended up turning out half way decent and saved myself a ridiculous $14 to buy one.
NAlso began cleaning the metal plate that covers the crank (not really sure what the name of it is) and timing cover. (Not done yet)
Also noticed something on the timing cover....something that worries me....
Am I gonna be finding another timing cover? It still seems solid and strong I wonder if getting it bead blasted or something would get rid of it.
On another note.......E34 OIL PAN!!!!!!!
Man, what a joke. WHAT A FLIPPIN JOKE it is to find one of these for a decent price, that's all. I'm just happy the struggle is over.
List of parts to order next...
Cometic headgasket
Rear main crankshaft seal kit (part #: 11142247867)
Front crankshaft seal
Stewart water pump
Timing cover gaskets
Oil pump pickup gasket and oil pump gasket
Oil pan gasket
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Man oh man is it ever hard to get an E34 oil pan. You have the couple of years they made the M50 E34, then out of those, the ones that made it stateside, then out of those, the ones that arent currently being driven and havent been sacrificed for their oil pans by all the other E30 swaps.
I was dealing with a guy known as “most reliable paul” to get a run of new E34 pans made but he has really dropped the ball.
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Can anybody by chance tell me where I can find or what the part number is for the gasket that goes between the oil pump and motor block? Or is there not suppose to be a gasket there? All I seem to find is the pickup to oil pump gasket.
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So got home earlier then normal today and with a little motivation left in me I decided to clean the garage a bit and get parts organized, VERY very happy that I did.
I completely forgot about these little guys. I still can't stop thinking, imagine if I had this thing all together ready to go and I found them then or even worse! after its in the car and I start the frickin thing, bye bye motor. Even though I disliked the fact that I had to pull the crank and bearings back out after its been all torqued down I'm thankful I caught it now.
Everything is back together now and torqued down as before, this time the right way.
For other progress I got my oil pump cleaned up and installed (not torqued down) as well as my oil pickup tube.
Still waiting on my gaskets and seals to show up, tomorrow gonna drop off the oil pan and timing cover at the machine shop for a nice acid bath and should get it back by the end of the day, then gonna work on priming and painting the pan which will be bmw blue to match the valve cover (Which isn't painted yet, but will be).
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nice progress!
as far as getting a built engine out of your basement...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/how-take-motor-out-basement-357271/
please consider one of the two of you has to go backwards up stairs. a fully dressed s50 is north of 400 lbs. short block is less, but either way its a small object so that makes it harder.
(have a plan B )
Dan
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nice progress!
as far as getting a built engine out of your basement...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/general-discussion-debate-40/how-take-motor-out-basement-357271/
please consider one of the two of you has to go backwards up stairs. a fully dressed s50 is north of 400 lbs. short block is less, but either way its a small object so that makes it harder.
(have a plan B )
Actually I've been doing some more thinking on that and I think I might have a pretty good idea. No matter what u do, the engine is gonna be awkward to carry and hard to support between two people. So, instead of carrying it why not just leave it right on the engine stand. People on that thread were saying to put the motor on a refrigerator dolly and maybe a come along to winch it up with plywood on the steps. How about I just hook the come along to the neck part of the stand and pull it up backwards on plywood? For the other side of the come along, there's a closet at the top of the stairs. If I took a thick heavy piece of wood and cut it just long enough to fit behind the back side of the frame and maybe supported it with 2x4's so it didn't fall, wrapped the strap around the piece of wood, and cranked her up the stairs, what could go wrong? For safety precautions I'll station a friend at the bottom end so if something were to fail he can catch it.
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I highly doubt your door frame or that piece of wood would survive that whole ordeal lol
Ye of little faith
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Ive lifted a few motors out of basements before. Each time the theory was to have more people available to lift it than needed. But then again, there was never any planning ahead or thinking about it like you are right now. What about one of those mover lift strap things?
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the fact that you have to concoct some elaborate plan is a red flag to me. however, this is the internet and we need to be entertained, so, carry on.
Dan
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update:
Parts were pretty dirty and brake cleaner wasn't cuttin it. dropped off the oil pan, timing cover, and thermostat housing at the machine shop and picked them up the next day.....
Although the acid tank did a hell of a job getting rid of all the gunk, it still doesn't get rid of corrosion and there is only one true fix for that on cast aluminum.......bead blasting
New seal installed...
Oil pan primed and painted. Used self-etching primer for better stick on the aluminum
I knew something was up when I torqued the bolts down. All that's going through my head is "Why the hell are the studs 2 threads short??" So, after spending a half hour reading forum threads and researching I found that arp, for some reason made their studs to short. Some people mentioned they threaded the stud a few turns out so that the nut reached all the threads. Others mentioned they took the washers out. I didn't like the sound of neither of these and instead got a handful of steel balls, 1/4 inch in diameter from bicycle bearings and dropped them in each of the holes, you could say it did the trick.
Before:
After:
On another note I received my gaskets from ecs tuning. Everything looked good except for something I noticed on the oil pan gasket.
Now, I know I didn't order a victor reinz and I even double checked on the website and the order receipt. So I gave them a call, and they confirmed that a mistake was made and they will send me another gasket right away and I can keep the gasket they sent, so i thought "excellent, no problem there." two days later I got the gasket in the mail, pulled it out of packaging and checked the same spot on the gasket, and once again it said victor reinz. After thinking it over I decided I'll give the gasket a try and not go through the hassle to get a third gasket. If you wanted to know, the gasket I ordered was a febi and the price differences from that and the victor reinz was like 2 bucks so big whoop, as long as it don't leak.
Back when I disassembled the motor, I ended up breaking one of the chain guides clips that hold it to the stud. So last weekend I spent my Saturday morning at my local junk yard pulling a m50 apart on an e34 to get another chain guide...It also still had its oil pan...and it was cracked.
It was well worth it cause it saved me 30 bucks from buying a new one.
pump installed, nut tightened to 18 lb ft and wire tied to the sprocket....safe and secure.
chain guides installed and good news! nothin broke.
Timing cover installed with new gaskets and some right stuff by permatex to keep them sealed. All the bolts torqued to 11 lb ft...
Question....got troubles with the oil baffle.
As you can see, the baffle won't bolt down because the arp main studs are interfering. Do I need it? I can modify it so that it does work but I wanted to check if its necessary to have, for some reason I couldn't find any info out there on this piece.
Next things on the list...
Install rear crank seal
Possibly Getting my cylinder head back this week sooooo...order head gasket, as well as
Stewart water pump
gasket for oil filter housing
vanos gasket
Obd1 coolant hose adapter
aaaaand maybe a few other things I can't think of at the moment.
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