new to me, 98 M3
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The crankshaft is at TDC. the camshafts are locked. once you remove the timing chains you must rotate the crankshaft off of TDC. Start the wrench at approximately the lifting hook (green line) and turn it counter clockwise to the opposite edge of the head (red line). Yes, it is horrifying to rotate the crank out of sync with the cams/with the timing chains off, but it is safe. Once the crankshaft is in this position you can rotate the cams all you want. You will probably have to rotate the intake cam independently to force the VAMOS unit off of the cam anyhow since you will notice that rotating the intake cam with the VAMOS unbolted results in the whole VAMOS unit moving axially in and out on the cam.
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Definitely not timed right in the photo. The squares should be parallel You should be safe to turn it that amount without messing with the crankshaft but it doesn't hurt to be safe. Be careful not to drop the chain down the front of the engine. I usually tie a wire to it just in case.
The bolts on the exhaust cam should be loose while the vanos is installed so the sprocket that drives the intake cam can rotate as the vanos is pushed in so the cams don't move.
When you are all done assembling and turn the engine by hand 2 revolutions you should be able to put the cam lock tool back on. Then you know it is right. You don't need the lock tool, I use a straight metal ruler but if you have the blocks it's easier.
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Well, got things buttoned back up last night. Here are some steps I took. Loosened exhaust CAM bolts with crank at TDC. Pushed in upper timing chain tensioner with pin. I was able to rotate exhaust CAM with wrench to put in CAM block locks. Intake side CAM lock slid on with no adjustment needed. I did not remove any chains. Rotated CAM sprocket to right while removing vanos. Re-set vanos very carefully to insure tooth caught while rotating CAM sprocket back to left. Spline tooth caught right away. Removed tensioner pin and locks. Checked timing on TDC with several rotations. All looked good. Buttoned rest back up. Cleared codes and DME adapations.
Took car for a spin now have a new gremlin. Car idles normally while cold and during warm up. Once the car is warm when coming out of gear into neutral the rpms start to flutter. Will typically dip to around 300 rmp then spike to 900 and keeps going back and forth. Doesn't do it all the time but is pretty consistent. My normal idle was around 650 rpm or so. On first trip out dipped low enough to kill the engine. Basically getting the same codes, now with the idle issue which is new. Perhaps I still have something wrong with my install. Not sure where to go from here.
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So when it was all put together with the vanos installed and after turning the engine a few times and back to TDC the squares on the cams are straight with each other and the cam locks can be put back on?
yes
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Just out of curiosity:
Move injectors 1-2-3 to cylinders 4-5-6 and see if the Bank 1 deviation becomes Bank 2 deviation. If so you know its injector related (even though the injectors are assumed good)
If its still a Bank 1 deviation after that, move bank 1 o2 sensor to bank 2. If the deviation moves to bank 2 you know the sensor is bad even though it is assumed to be good. If it stays on bank 1 then there is excessive electrical resistance in the injector wiring, o2 wiring, or an air leak on the intake or exhaust side of cylinders 1,2, or 3
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I had some time to noodle around with this over the weekend. Here are a few observations. Before moving injectors in addition to the codes above I would get a misfire on cylinder 5. Wouldn't happen all the time, but somewhat consistent. I've replaced all spark plugs and new coil packs but code persists.
So, I removed plugs and rotated them around. 1 to 4, 2 to 5, 3 to 6 and then 6 to 3, 5 to 2, 4 to 1.
New codes come up as: Misfire cylinder 2 and 6. (2 makes some sense since I moved 5 to that spot. 6 makes no sense) I have mixture deviation on Bank 2 now vs bank 1. Also, both Cat Efficiency Bank 1,2 still. After moving them and starting the car I could feel the misfires right away. However, after car warms up it appears to run perfectly fine.
Anyway to test injectors besides sending them in to get cleaned and tested? Seems weird for 6 to go bad. That would have been in slot 1 before and I've never had a code there. I wonder if there's something up with my electrical signal to them? I probably stretching here.
Appreciate any thoughts.
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Just moved injectors. Plugs are also new. Looked fine when i pulled them for vanos job before. I didn't put them back in the same spots so the misfire staying on 5 wouldn't have been plug related. In the past i've moved those and coil packs. Code stayed on 5. So, plugs and packs should be good.
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Ok, I misunderstood. I think you have identified an injector problem if your misfire code moved with the injector. Did you happen to look for an injector dripping while you had them out of the manifold?
I think if you had a wiring harness problem the issue would have stayed at cylinder 5.
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thanks guys. Will do tonight and report back. I found it strange that cylinder 6 now had a misfire as well. I didn't check for a dripping injector unfortunately.
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There are a lot of variables in play so dont think too much of it until you clear adaptations and try again. Cyl 6 may have a good plug, good injector, but may be misfiring because of the extra lean/extra rich fuel trim on bank 2.
It would be best to send the injectors out for rebuild for peace of mind. I had a good experience and turnaround with Injector Rehab.
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Not sure what style injectors you have, but you can always check them quickly yourself with a battery and some carb/injector cleaner.
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Cleared codes and reset DME this AM. Took to work today. Start up was rough again, smoothed out after normal driving. Although I feel even after warm up the sound of the exhaust is a little sputtery. Pulled the same misfire codes on 2 and 6 and cat efficiency codes. No mixture deviation yet, but that might come on with more driving I suspect.
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Yeah. I'll start there for piece of mind. Still think it could be my vanos job. I've been reading about more steps on that and some people swear by having to test is with air for correct chain movement before buttoning up. But, not too expensive to ship off the injectors so taking those off tonight. Using this guy. I've emailed with him. http://injectorrepair.com/flow-testing-process/
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Did you use a dummy chain tensioner tool when you did your cam timing?
The fun part about my build is its OBD1 with no check engine light so if my engine runs funny then I don't get too many hints as to what it may be. Here is to hoping I fire mine up within the next month and it is perfect, and that yours is just some crummy injectors.
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Did you use a dummy chain tensioner tool when you did your cam timing?
The fun part about my build is its OBD1 with no check engine light so if my engine runs funny then I don't get too many hints as to what it may be. Here is to hoping I fire mine up within the next month and it is perfect, and that yours is just some crummy injectors.
all i used for the tensioner tool was pressed down on the upper tensioner and then inserted a small nail into the hole to hold it down so the chain had slack. That's what the beisan instructions lead me to believe is all i had to do. http://www.beisansystems.com/procedures/vanos_single_procedure.htm
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