Build Thread?
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I have a flaring tool but it doesn't work well with US sized brake lines so I am hoping to find something close in size pre-flared at the parts store today.
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http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-front-to-rear-brake-lines-rear-hard-line-delete-82-91-bmw-e30/
No clue if it's a reputable company, but it's kinda intriguing.
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Picture of brake lines being replaced (after removal)
After about 3 hours I finally came up with this, and it was stupid. Though in the long run it will be worth it.
After doing this I went to get the subframe back in and ran into the subframe lower plate (?) not lining up on the drivers side but being fine on the passenger side. Don't know why, and will be looking into it tomorrow.
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Is the diff bolted up in that picture?
Or just say f it, drill new holes and send it home
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(Jk)
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After doing this I went to get the subframe back in and ran into the subframe lower plate (?) not lining up on the drivers side but being fine on the passenger side. Don't know why, and will be looking into it tomorrow.
How long was it on the jack stands?
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GunMetalGrey said:
After doing this I went to get the subframe back in and ran into the subframe lower plate (?) not lining up on the drivers side but being fine on the passenger side. Don't know why, and will be looking into it tomorrow.
How long was it on the jack stands?
It's been in the air for a couple weeks. I never really though about the chassis shifting though...
My plan is to lower the subframe to ensure the metal pin the presses into the chassis is in straight. I would find it hard to believe it isn't, but double checking doesn't hurt.
I checked the bushings quick and everything seemed concentric.
If everything checks out there I may bolt it up snug and set it down slowly and see if that side shifts over.
Thanks for the thought!
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Got the subframe in, the side plate went it fairly easily after I set the car down. I did just remember that I forgot to tighten the diff bushing down.
The end result of camber appears to be a bit more drastic than I was thinking it would be. I measure with my phone for extreme accuracy and I was getting about 0.2 degrees of negative camber. Here is a low quality picture!
I'm happy to have the car back on the ground, as I can start pulling the engine now to get that ready for boost again!
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I feel somewhat accomplished on what I got done this weekend.
It was very odd taking this car apart and dealing with a bit of road grime, that doesn't normally happen!
Test fit the new radiator, and still don't know what I'm going to do about an expansion tank. I was thinking about doing an aluminum e36 one but I don't know if it will be thin enough to fit without hitting something. Any suggestions are welcome!
I'm excited to have a larger radiator that should actually have the capacity to keep the engine cool.
Started by pulling the motor (after the front fell off) and I managed to yank the core support without removing the fenders which was quite nice.
Pulled the motor out with relative ease and didn't do too much tensile testing during the process.
I did find something as the motor was coming out that I haven't noticed before. I was pressing my hand against the steering u-joint while undoing fuel lines and noticed that it was moving. I gave the joint a wiggle and sure enough there is play in the upper joint. So that needs to get replaced! New ones are NLA unfortunately. Pic of coupling in question. If you have an upper u joint without play please let me know!
oofta that's blurry.
Separated the trans and the motor and inspected the flywheel and clutch. I'm not overly sure how I feel about it. The flywheel looks like it wasn't all mating evenly, but the clutch disk shows that it was.
Opinions?
The pressure plate side looks fine and worn in well.
After that I disassembled more things and pulled the head off. This was slightly sad as everything had been working fine!
All of the top end stuff was fine, and the block cleaned up well as it had been decked last year.
Now to get the new head gasket setup and install that.
I was mildly annoyed when I was rearranging my shelves to fit more parts and moved one of my ECU's over to another shelf. I got confused because I thought my ecu was still in the car and I had just moved the 413 with the TRM m52 chip in it. I went to the car and pulled the ECU out.
I was using a plain 413 all summer.... I had bought a $250 chip that was setup for an m52 on a 413 with some other changes, and never used it because I forgot that I fired it up on the stock one first. That was annoying to say the least! I will never get to use it either
I just wonder if the car would have felt a significant amount better with that or not, and now I'll never know!More next time!
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early e30 or e30 m3 coolant tank near the driver's strut tower?
Dan
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early e30 or e30 m3 coolant tank near the driver's strut tower?
I am trying to find a bolt in solution, as the thought of welding brackets in makes me cry a little bit inside.
I'm wondering if I couldn't sneak an aluminum (slightly thinner?) e36 expansion tank on the DS of the radiator and just make a bracket or two for that.Maybe @Earl could chime in about converting from an expansion tank to an overflow tank? that would solve most of my issues I believe.
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I'm like 50% sure the e30 m3 one just bolts to the battery tray, no brackets required.
Dan
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Stick with an expansion tank, also stick with a system from an e30 or a self bleeding type of aftermarket expansion tank there are tons to choose from. Why go back to a manual bleed system. I did a cooling overhaul on a late e36 and did the "Euro" e36 m3 coolant system which is a late e30 expansion tank mounted in the area between the strut tower and firewall on the right side with OE brackets. It worked excellent, just fill it and go.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
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Stick with an expansion tank, also stick with a system from an e30 or a self bleeding type of aftermarket expansion tank there are tons to choose from. Why go back to a manual bleed system. I did a cooling overhaul on a late e36 and did the "Euro" e36 m3 coolant system which is a late e30 expansion tank mounted in the area between the strut tower and firewall on the right side with OE brackets. It worked excellent, just fill it and go.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
I am running into the issue of not having enough space and not wanting to weld anything in. I can't put a tank behind the ps strut tower and the downpipe runs right past that location and would put the coolant hose way too close.
Any suggestions for aftermarket expansion tanks? I haven't really found any for less than $250. -
That should link to recirculating style tanks on summit, pick your shape/size/fittings. Most look like they would mount to the firewall nicely. Try to mount it as high as possible but it is not necessary to be higher than the rest of the cooling system. The small line from the top of the radiator constantly flows a small amount of coolant (and air if there is any) to the expansion tank and fluid is drawn from the bottom of the expansion tank leaving the air in the expansion tank.
Most important thing to look for is the connection point for the radiator small line is low on the tank or has a tube going to the bottom like the OE tank for an m20. This is so if the tank is not at the highest point in the system when you shut the car off that air doesn't go back through the line into the radiator. It wouldn't wreck anything but it would give you a false level reading when checking the level. Then when the car is started it will bleed itself every time and the level will drop.
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I'm like 50% sure the e30 m3 one just bolts to the battery tray, no brackets required.
Not only has my battery tray been cut to match the body lines underneath, but my down pipe also runs through where the battery used to be.
Best picture I have that shows the issue.
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That should link to recirculating style tanks on summit, pick your shape/size/fittings. Most look like they would mount to the firewall nicely. Try to mount it as high as possible but it is not necessary to be higher than the rest of the cooling system. The small line from the top of the radiator constantly flows a small amount of coolant (and air if there is any) to the expansion tank and fluid is drawn from the bottom of the expansion tank leaving the air in the expansion tank.
Most important thing to look for is the connection point for the radiator small line is low on the tank or has a tube going to the bottom like the OE tank for an m20. This is so if the tank is not at the highest point in the system when you shut the car off that air doesn't go back through the line into the radiator. It wouldn't wreck anything but it would give you a false level reading when checking the level. Then when the car is started it will bleed itself every time and the level will drop.
Those bottom fittings are quite small compared to what the hose size for the expansion tank that BMW uses!
This still feels different though, as it doesn't look like this would be a way to fill the cooling system, or would it? I am clearly confused here.
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