e34 Touring

KaiserRolls

Second one, the mount is awesome and will probably work great to be honest. I have just had 0 luck with hard mounting GoPros to anything ever. I always end up seeing the vibration come through the picture (if that makes sense) but then again, the e34 is comfort and class in a nice package, so who knows. Helmet mounts are nice because your head sort of acts as a gimbal. The suction cup mount is okay for vibration. The rubber suctiony part helps knock down some vibration.

patsbimmer1

What if you put some rubber around the seat mount area to help absorb the vibrations.

KaiserRolls

That would probably help. I am interested to see the video, I've always wanted to make a mount for inside the car but I suck at things.

Dan make this one next:

It goes on your roof and points forward at all times due to wind and science

Boris3

Headrest mounts are pretty common and go from $45-100 from venders or can be diy out of pvc, wood, etc. Search camera headrest mount. Straight6pwr has a good design.

Vibration with this approach though depends on how solid the seat back is, especially in an older car and the passenger seat being empty.

KaiserRolls

Boris do you have any in car footage? What mount do you use/did you make your own?

Dan as soon as you can upload footage share that stuffs. I need to make an in car mount. Helmet mounted GoPro worked well for motorcycle, but didn't transfer to well to in car stuff

Jdesign

Genius. I am curious to how the footage turns out vibration wise.

Boris3

KaiserRolls, my setup is in a gutted and caged race car with an old GoPro Hero2 attached to the cage cross bar, so not much help. Clamps to the bar and has a 4" tall post piece that that attaches to the camera. I'm switching to a beefier IO Port roll bar mount this season since my run ins with the gators at Blackhawk Farms in my last race last season led to some strange camera angles (my youtube channel is hrfe30, gator effect is in the Loooong Race Part I video about 12m in and gets worse with a couple of T6 gator run ins later on).

As i mentioned in my last if you google "camera headrest mount" you'll see some options on attaching it to passenger seat. One DIY design has a crossbar that attaches to the headrests.of both seats to be more stable...potential Darwin award with that one. The GoPro Suction cup mount seems to hold up well for folks, attached to the roof or sides depending on the angles you want. Some racers use that setup for a supplemental rear facing camera on the roof/trunk

straight6pwr

rich - your videos look great, definitely a stable setup except when attacked by a gator.

mine, not so much on the first attempt - lots of camera shake! when the car isn't moving, i'm not getting any vibrations, so that's good at least. the whole setup has a bit of axis rotation and a lot of springing action of the aluminum arm. the position of the camera is also far to close to me, as my face and shoulder are in the frame. v2 here we come.

straight6pwr

so i removed the 'extension' part of the mount and added a second cross bar to make the whole thing very solid. no more springing action. a bit more difficult to mount, but since size is now small enough i can leave it mounted to the car semi-permanently and not worry about safety or it being in the way. its is only about 1" wider than the shoulder of the seat.

the 'ground clamp' is conducive to having a bar on both sides.

i also liked pat's idea of isolating the whole thing with rubber to maybe reduce small vibrations. some cheap rubber washers in the parts aisle did the trick:

safety first!

installed pics, and a test video coming tomorrow. going to film my commute to work and see how it looks.

straight6pwr

more R&D needed. v2 certainly much better than v1, but still getting shaking over bumps, which is every 1 second on Milwaukee roads. it makes it look like i'm driving a car with stiff race suspension offroad. from my research it seems like everything needs to be rock solid to help keep the camera lined up with the car. i'll be investigating the tripod mount/screw to see if it has some give and looking at the passenger seat to see if there is a way to reduce bouncing there. maybe remove the rubber isolation strips. obviously, the seat back has a bit of play in these old BMWs, so i'm thinking some ratchet straps from the seat to the rear bench area to put a little tension on the seat to hold any movement to a minimum.

mitch your prophesy is coming true.

KaiserRolls

Not so much a prophecy, just bad experiences lol

patsbimmer1

This might be worth it in your quest for mounting excellence.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-182590-gopro-grab-bag-of-mounts/

KaiserRolls

The amount of money GoPro makes off of Chinese molded plastic parts is unreal. $20 for like 5 things that cost maybe a nickel to manufacture

straight6pwr

patsbimmer1 said:

This might be worth it in your quest for mounting excellence.

https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-182590-gopro-grab-bag-of-mounts/

thanks, but I have all those and some RAM ball mounts for my fishing setup. nothing that clamps to a bar the size of the headrest post, so that's why I had to get more creative.

KaiserRolls said:

The amount of money GoPro makes off of Chinese molded plastic parts is unreal. $20 for like 5 things that cost maybe a nickel to manufacture

its true! but alternatives are everywhere so it can be avoided.

straight6pwr

got some work done on the nice spring-ish weekend. sometime a couple weeks ago on one of our -20 deg days i pulled up to a drive-thru window and hit the down window button. well, the windows were froze to hell, but the one-touch decided to flex its muscles and kept on pullin. BANG! it sounded like it ripped the bottom of the window off!! i was expecting the worst, but it turned out not bad. the regular bent itself and ripped the plastic guides out of their track. bent it back and clips in place, done. i also put some silicone in the window tracks and channels to hopefully reduce the chance of this happening again.

next problem I've been waiting to fix is a coolant leak/underheating issue. i was loosing coolant somewhere near the engine fan, because it was being splashed around the engine bay leaving tiny white dots everywhere. shortly after that started, i notice that suddenly my car wasn't hitting operating temp even in idling in traffic. thermostat was stuck open and the housing was leaking, so nice two-fer fix here.

don't forget the wussy torque of the bolts:

easy job on the m60. remove the clutch fan. remove the airbox/elbow. remove the bolt holding the dipstick, then all four bolts are accessible with a 10mm socket + extensions. upgraded to a metal housing from the stock plastic. forgot to order a new lower rad hose at the same time, oh well. now she's running perfectly again and i have my heat back.

Earl

My e34 did the same thing with the window regulator lol

straight6pwr

Earl said:

My e34 did the same thing with the window regulator lol

i hate the one-touch. it always goes all the way up or down exactly when I don't want it too.

jc43089

Touch lightly to just move the window a small amount.

straight6pwr

jc43089 said:

Touch lightly to just move the window a small amount.

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jc43089

That's how the e36 buttons work, with a slight press it will move until you let go and a press past the click will do one touch, and the rears will one touch down but have to hold for up so you don't squish your kid.

WIBIMMERS

e34 Touring