Lifted E30 V2
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I have started thinking more about spacing the front subframe down, and adding the spacers to the strut assemblies. I know some v8 guys run subframe spacers to get more clearance for "things" and I may just do the same, but for much different reasons.
I think bringing the front subframe down 1" would be excellent, and I would then get rear subframe bushings made to match, and create a new subframe support plate under the bushings.In other words, body lift?
Obviously you're going to want as much ground clearance as possible for this car. I wouldn't make anything closer to the ground. Unless by lowering the subframe, you won't lose clearance because you'll just be raising the body.
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In other words, body lift?
Obviously you're going to want as much ground clearance as possible for this car. I wouldn't make anything closer to the ground. Unless by lowering the subframe, you won't lose clearance because you'll just be raising the body.
Yes, a body lift.
I would not change the ground clearance of the subframe, but it would increase the distance to the rockers and underside of the body. Generally it would be done to fit larger tires, but I would benefit from the height with the current tire size.
The only part I am trying to figure out is if I would lower the motor down with the subframe, or attempt to keep it at the stock height which would allow me to build the skid plate 3/4" higher than last time and increasing the ground clearance of the lowest part of the car. The only reason I question this is because I would be lowering the rear subframe, and I am not sure how the driveshaft would like the angle that would be created. I will have to measure the length that the rear shaft would be and see what kind of driveshaft angle I would be running.
Lowering the rear subframe would also help correct some of the camber and other weird things I have going on back there.
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Awesome update. I would say space out the subframe. I would assume that you could always just space out the CSB from the chasis to make the diveshaft happy again. I also want to know what flares you are going to use!

I knew that I would be able to space the chassis up from the entire driveline, but ideally I would change the motor mounts to keep the motor at the same height relative to the chassis. This would get the oil pan up higher in the car and my skid plate could be brought up 3/4". The skid plate will be the lowest point on the car, so if I can bring it up .75" and bring the body up 1" I would be in a very good place for ground clearance. It would put me at either 12 or 13 inches from the ground to the lowest point of the rocker panels.
I wish they would have put the other U joint behind the CSB (towards the diff) instead of being in the front of the CSB! I may start by spacing the rear down and seeing how the driveshaft likes it!
As far as flares go, I will probably keep that one under wraps until I have one side done.
If anyone wants a free shell, come bring a trailer to Appleton! I will need to get the E out of the shop soon

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i have no idea if this is even in the realm of sanity, but I saved my factory e34 rear coilovers if you want them. quick assumption would be you would have to cut/weld wider rear shock towers if you wanted to use them as a whole unit. or, possibly you could use just the shock as I imagine they are longer and have stiffer dampening (that's what she said) than e30 stuff due to the extra weight.
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i have no idea if this is even in the realm of sanity, but I saved my factory e34 rear coilovers if you want them. quick assumption would be you would have to cut/weld wider rear shock towers if you wanted to use them as a whole unit. or, possibly you could use just the shock as I imagine they are longer and have stiffer dampening (that's what she said) than e30 stuff due to the extra weight.
Can you measure the "eye to eye" length of the setup?
The only issue I see with using them is how much of an arc I am making with the mounting point on the trailing arm, and making an upper mount to suit this. -
will do.
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Start with the fender you don't care about. It makes life easier and less painful.
Add some tape, and a bit of sharpie.Grab the grinder, make some cuts.
Set flare on the fender. Realize that you are extremely happy with the way things are going.
Next step, removal fender from other car. Feel bad for a few moments about what you are about to do to an almost perfect fender. Clear those feelings out by realizing that the paint on the lower portion is half white and half black, and that there is a weird indent in the upper corner of the fender.
Touch the grinder to the fender, realize that what you have done is now irreversible. Then start enjoying it.
Grab some clamps, get the flare to stay on the fender.
Push the lifeless shell of the previous E out of the way, and admire what you have created.
I need to trim up the front to match the flare to the fender, but this was obviously just a quick mock up.
The fitment surprises me, and they will need very little work to fit almost perfectly.The stanceboi in me wants to lower the flares so they sit more flush with the tires, but then I remember that doing that would kind of defeat the purpose.
The rears don't make me happy yet, and I need to spend some more time with them to figure out how I want to handle that.
Some goodies should be arriving today for the car, and will give me plenty to work on this weekend!
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Are those from an XJ?? That looks awesome
They sure are!
Thanks! -
It was another good weekend for the car, as a good amount of work got done!
I started with the passenger side front suspension. I needed to take the strut assembly out of the previous E for this, and knew that it needed a new wheel bearing so I was prepared for that. I loosened up the "axle" nut and then pulled the assembly out. I was prepared to fight with the hub/bearing assembly to get it out but luckily since it was so bad it slid right off! The hub was able to wiggle a whole lot, and I'm impressed that it actually survived. The ball joint for the strut assembly was also toast, but that's no longer an issue!
This is a $20 wheel bearing/ hub assembly, so we will see how long it lasts!
Does anyone have an e90 steering rack handy? I need to measure the diameter of where the boot clamps! I want to use e90 inner tie rods for the E (due to needed length) but don't know what I will need for boots.
Thinking of pulling parts out of the old car, I yanked the pedal box out. There is a spring in there that I have not seen before. Anyone else run into these?
It's set up to assist with pushing the pedal down, which was also odd to me.Finished up the fender flare on one side, and mounted it up.
There is a small gap between the flare and the fender in one or two spots, and I think I may just leave them. The shadow in the above picture makes it look like there is a huge gap, but there isn't!
I'm very happy with the way it turned out, and will be starting on the other side soon.
I drilled some holes in my door handles instead of doing something that was more worthy of my time.
Dunno, I like it. The car is also super dirty as that picture shows!
A slightly less anticipated move had me pulling out the driveshaft again, and pulling out all of the fuel lines! Pulling the tank wasn't too bad on this one actually.. I now need to make mounting for this guy.
Hmm, what else.
Took some more stuff out of the old car and pushed it outside. Pulled the diff out of it, never the greatest job.
Ran the fuel lines through the trans tunnel again, and made mounting for that.It was productive, and thinking that tomorrow is November already scares me a touch because I want this thing ready in time for snowfall!
The other e30 was a bit jealous that it hasn't gotten any love lately. Just being beat on.
There was also some wildlife wondering what the hell I had done.
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Got the other front flare mounted. Didn't take a picture because it's the side closest to the wall.
Cut the rear brake lines out. I was hesitant to do so, but it practically crumbled apart so it was clearly for the best.
I'm running a new hard line down the trans tunnel and using braided AN lines that don't run on the trailing arms instead of the stock configuration.I'm looking forward to getting this thing drive-able again!
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you let a free thanksgiving dinner walk by. imagine an e30 guy chucking a control arm like a boomerang to hunt urban turkeys.
the flares are going to be perfect.
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I couldn't get over why this picture looked so familiar and I figured it out. The basket weaves look really similar to the mesh wheels you could get on jeeps in the late 80's and early 90's and since e30's are a box just like XJ's it reminded me of this:

This car is awesome. I didn't realize the door handles were metal either, those holes are pretty cool. I always thought they were just some dense plastic or something
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I have worked on this very little lately, that or have just been doing stuff that takes a lot of time and doesn't look any different when done...
I have gotten the fuel lines ran under the car, and new lines ran where the fuel tank used to be and up into the trunk. I cut out the spare tire well and need to make a plate to cover that and provide clearance for the sump of the fuel cell. I will also be mounting the fuel pump and filter to the same area.
I also ran the brake line for the rear of the car through the trans tunnel, and back to the factory T above the diff. I hate hard lines is what I have concluded.
I also started slicing and dicing e90 and e36 tie rods to make something that will be long enough for the e46 control arm swap.
I plan on getting this back on the ground and driving by the end of the holiday weekend, so there should be more updates (with pictures) soon!
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For the tie rods was it e90 inners?
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