Jake's Epic BMW 135i Build Thread! (5+ Years of Ownership)
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Nope, still on the same turbos. I checked them when I installed inlets. No shaft play, no leaking or burning oil. Just the dreaded rattle from the wastegate flapper, it's a shame because they seem to be in great condition otherwise.
Once these give up or I want even more power, I'll be going with a top-mount single
Top mount single..
I guess I'm incredibly likely that mine don't rattle at all at 99k and can hold over 19psi to 5500.
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Top mount single..
I guess I'm incredibly likely that mine don't rattle at all at 99k and can hold over 19psi to 5500.ย
Yeah, I already relocated everything when I did inlets. Easiest way to make good power
Consider yourself lucky. Holding 19psi at 5500RPM with no inlets. I can only dream...
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Took my first log last night. The car won't make over 15psi because of the shitty turbos. The wastegate flapper won't stay shut and allow them to build proper boost.
Overall, pretty disappointed. The car still pulls pretty good, but this sucks. Upgraded twins or bigger single...
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Hexon rr600 are a great DD option or the 700s if you want to go big HP with PI. Eitherway I think for the money hexon is the way to go. Otherwise if going single look for a used Motiv or VM kit. The fftec and jpworks kits just aren't that great as far as craftsman ship goes.
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Took my first log last night. The car won't make over 15psi because of the shitty turbos. The wastegate flapper won't stay shut and allow them to build proper boost.
Overall, pretty disappointed. The car still pulls pretty good, but this sucks. Upgraded twins or bigger single...
On that note we should still run this weekend LOL. Sorry to hear about the turbos tho, but thats not the worst thing. Just motivation to make it better!
sk8 or die
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Hexon rr600 are a great DD option or the 700s if you want to go big HP with PI. Eitherway I think for the money hexon is the way to go. Otherwise if going single look for a used Motiv or VM kit. The fftec and jpworks kits just aren't that great as far as craftsman ship goes.
I was looking at the RR600s today, great option for the money. Same price as VVT Stage 2 though. PURE Turbos offer upgraded twins with stock-sized inlet snouts, meaning I could re-use my inlets instead of having to buy new ones. That'd be cool.
Motiv makes an awesome single kit, but very expensive. I was thinking of piecing my own together with some parts from the JPWorks kit. I've heard good and bad things, but right now it's just a pipe dream anyways. No funds. I'll run these stockers until they blow.
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On that note we should still run this weekend LOL. Sorry to hear about the turbos tho, but thats not the worst thing. Just motivation to make it better!ย
I'm always down. I still have a dyno appointment for the 22nd, so we'll see what kind of power she puts down on 15psi. Numbers aren't going to be where I was hoping, but oh well. I already have the motivation to make it better, just not the funds
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I was looking at the RR600s today, great option for the money. Same price as VVT Stage 2 though. PURE Turbos offer upgraded twins with stock-sized inlet snouts, meaning I could re-use my inlets instead of having to buy new ones. That'd be cool.
Motiv makes an awesome single kit, but very expensive. I was thinking of piecing my own together with some parts from the JPWorks kit. I've heard good and bad things, but right now it's just a pipe dream anyways. No funds. I'll run these stockers until they blow.
Stay away from VVT. Have installed 2 sets that took a crap within 5k miles. I think hexon and pure are on the same level, so why not save some money going with hexon. If going single you either pay up or don't do it at all. There is a reason the good single kits cost as much as they do. You can find a used VM kit for about $5-6k.
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Stay away from VVT. Have installed 2 sets that took a crap within 5k miles. I think hexon and pure are on the same level, so why not save some money going with hexon. If going single you either pay up or don't do it at all. There is a reason the good single kits cost as much as they do. You can find a used VM kit for about $5-6k.ย
I don't like the way Tony conducts himself online so I don't think I could ever buy anything from him anyways.
Just curious, what do you charge for install on some Hexons (for example)? PM me if needed, thanks.
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So you have mentioned that the wastegates wont stay shut due to the flapper and worn parts correct? Would it no be possible to make some bushings for the actuator arm to the wastegate "lever" to eliminate the play? Or do the wastegate actuators themselves start wearing?ย
If I remember correctly, when I was doing your inlet I noticed that there was a lot of play between the actuator and the linkage on the turbo, if that slop was gone it would keep the wastegate flap in the turbo shut, no? -
So you have mentioned that the wastegates wont stay shut due to the flapper and worn parts correct? Would it no be possible to make some bushings for the actuator arm to the wastegate "lever" to eliminate the play? Or do the wastegate actuators themselves start wearing?ย
If I remember correctly, when I was doing your inlet I noticed that there was a lot of play between the actuator and the linkage on the turbo, if that slop was gone it would keep the wastegate flap in the turbo shut, no?Bingo. There is slop between the arm and lever. Also a little in the seat itself.
It's not fun to get at the rear turbo, but can be done. The front is impossible to get to without dropping the subframe or pulling the motor. There aren't any "off-the-shelf" solutions available, but I'm sure with some creativity... something can be made. If you're feeling creative, I'd love to test stuff out. Otherwise to me, I'm better off upgrading the turbos anywaysย at 110k miles. When doing the inlets, I checked them and they were in really good condition besides this stupid wastegate problem. No shaft play, no leaking oil on either turbo.
I made these to show it better:
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Bingo. There is slop between the arm and lever. Also a little in the seat itself.
It's not fun to get at the rear turbo, but can be done. The front is impossible to get to without dropping the subframe or pulling the motor. There aren't any "off-the-shelf" solutions available, but I'm sure with some creativity... something can be made. If you're feeling creative, I'd love to test stuff out.
http://turbolabofamerica.com/bmw-135i-535i-335i-turbo-wastegate-rattle-repair-fix/
3 seconds of google begs to differ.ย
I do recall them being in good shape, and I could see it being a lot of work to do those.
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No shaft play
Sounds terrible
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http://turbolabofamerica.com/bmw-135i-535i-335i-turbo-wastegate-rattle-repair-fix/
3 seconds of google begs to differ.ย
I do recall them being in good shape, and I could see it being a lot of work to do those.ย
I should've clarified... no fix available that doesn't require removing the turbos.
A few people have used thoseย Turbo Lab parts, but most just put in upgraded twins since they need to be removed anyways.
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Yeah that makes sense.ย
Who wouldn't want new turbos?!? Other than the wallet funding them..... -
I just wish that BMW on Victory Lane wouldn't have dicked me around when I first bought the car. It was eligible for turbo replacement but they put it off until I was over the mileage.
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this isn't your daily driver. just DIY it so you can save a couple bucks and get your new turbos sooner.
2011 E92 M3 6MT ZCP - ESS 625 supercharged
2007 Z4MRย
2003 E39 M5
2002 E46 M3
2021 X5 40i -
this isn't your daily driver. just DIY it so you can save a couple bucks and get your new turbos sooner.ย
That's the plan!
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