'88 E30
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Went to a friends shop today that has all the necessary tools (20 ton press and the space is heated) we hammered out both hubs with a socket, extension & dead blow. Only one hub held on to an inner race. After the hubs were out we popped the snap rings out and pressed out the wheel bearings. We put the hub/inner race combo in a vise and slowly hammered it off after heating it (kind of a pain in the ass)
Finished product before cleanup & por15
Popped off the ebrake hardware and dust shields
I will be cleaning up and re using the hubs per snaps advice
Can't feel those lines, but will be cleaning them up so they aren't visible
While we were there we also got the old bushings out of my lollipops. Either tonight or tomorrow I'm going to burn out the rubber bushings from the trailing arms
On Tuesday I get the last of my chassis reinforcements in and I'll be having those welded on by my friend. After all the welding is done I'll be cleaning them up to get everything ready for a few coats of por-15.
Still need to get the axles off of the diff/clean diff etc.
And still need to keep slowly collecting parts & address the rear brake lines and a bunch of other crap. It never ends
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What are you going to go for the hand brake? I saw that Wilwood makes parking brake calipers and I was thinking about fitting one
Honestly. Probably nothing.
I keep debating wether or not I should just put one back in
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Actually I can't. I ran the hydro lines thru the ebrake cable holes because I'm an idiot lol
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You can get a locking hydro brake to act as a normal handbrake
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You can get a locking hydro brake to act as a normal handbrake
Yeah. K sport or whatever makes one that locks. The hydro I have doesn't lock. I have 6 different gears I can put it in to stop it from rolling away
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Thats how I handle it too *thumbs up*
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Ready for reinforcements! (Garagistic just released some more, so I may re visit the front subframe) but here they are ready to go
Also got the axles off the diff
And had some stainless lines made today. Idea is to go right from the T where the main line comes to the union and run stainless all the way to the caliper
Was under the car and 4' should be long enough. We'll see how it works
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I know that braided lines have less flex than rubber but there's no way it is comparable to a solid line. Any concern about a loss of braking power?
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maybe. The way I look at it is I'm replacing about 20" of rubber with stainless & as for the remaining hardline.....one of my hardliners coming from the T was pinched flat....soooo hopefully it feels better after replacing it lol.
Side note: when installing my hydro many moons ago, I found a bunch of pics/threads were people would run stainless line from the hydro (mainly for looks in the cab) and didn't run into issues of being able to lock up the rear brakes.
I guess what I'm trying to say Pat is, I have no idea but I am definitely interested to find out haha
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I like you answer lol. I wish you had a more solid before comparison for an indefinite answer instead of a pinched line.
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I like you answer lol. I wish you had a more solid before comparison for an indefinite answer instead of a pinched line.
It's pancaked m8. Idk how it didn't leak
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Garagistic is really good at releasing brand new shit a day after I place my order.
Reinforcement plate for the control arm/ball joint spot. I will probably end up buying it because I have all my shit out of the car already. And I'm a sucker, what can I say
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Does that spot usually crack? I don't recall seeing anyone having issues at that point. You would think the control arm would break before that cracks lol
Exactly my thoughts. Maybe in extreme applications of rage drifting and or fuckery (AKA you crash into a curb) it would crack
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maybe the squirrel was trying to acorner balance the car for you?
Quoted because I find this amusing, and no one else made comment.
Bravo, Dan, Bravo. -
Quoted because I find this amusing, and no one else made comment.
Bravo, Dan, Bravo.thanks! i was a little surprised no one laughed at that one.
Dan
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