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E30 Fuel Pump

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  • 6670charger6
    6670charger6
    6670charger
    wrote on last edited by
    #1

    Having an issue with the fuel pump in my 88 325ic. The pump isn't working because there is a short somewhere; the fuse keeps blowing out. It's in the shop right now, but, wondering if anyone else has had this problem and can give me some ideas to pass on to the mechanic that might help speed the process? I've read that there may be two fuel pumps, one internal to the gas tank, and one external? Right now, they're not sure if the short is in the electrical somewhere, or in the pump itself. I'm inclined to believe that it's in the electrical, but I'm no electrical expert.

    Thanks.

    88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

    66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

    Appleton, WI

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • B
      B
      Boris3
      wrote on last edited by
      #2

      According to Bentley: "in cold weather, water in the fuel may freeze in the pump, causing the circuit to overload and the fuse [#11] to fail."

      Possible?

      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • B
        B
        B C
        wrote on last edited by
        #3

        Nice find!
        Sounds like a good starting point.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRollsK
          KaiserRolls
          wrote on last edited by
          #4

          Could always put an additive in the fuel that has isopropyl alcohol in it.

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • jc43089J
            jc43089J
            jc43089
            wrote on last edited by
            #5

            Isoheet, ftw in these cold temps.  I put a bottle in with each fillup when it is this cold out.  It's only about 2.79 usually.

            2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
            3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
            '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

            '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

            '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
            '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
            '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • 6670charger6
              6670charger6
              6670charger
              wrote on last edited by
              #6

              I'll have to check tomorrow. The car has been inside all weekend, so it'll be interesting to see if it starts. Kept blowing the fuze every time they checked it last Friday, and I think it was inside all day at that point.

              Thanks for the info!

              88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

              66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

              Appleton, WI

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • B
                B
                Boris3
                wrote on last edited by
                #7

                If it doesn't, try the easy stuff first: change the fuel pump relay and check the connection plug at the fuel pump.

                1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • 6670charger6
                  6670charger6
                  6670charger
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #8

                  Could a bad relay cause the fuse to blow?

                  88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

                  66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

                  Appleton, WI

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • jc43089J
                    jc43089J
                    jc43089
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #9

                    Not likely, usually a failed relay won't close (connect the circuit) meaning no current flow.  Too much current is why a fuse blows, either pump is shorted causing high current or a wire is shorted to the body.  The resistance of the pump and its wiring can be measured from the relay socket, I will go measure mine tomorrow unless someone can get it sooner, then your shop will at least know what it should be.  From a quick search it appears that only early e30's had dual pumps, and the late ones like yours and mine have just one in the tank.  Somebody chime in if I am wrong.

                    RelaysECU-Fuel-E30E28-6001.jpg

                    2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                    3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                    '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                    '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                    '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • B
                      B
                      Boris3
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #10

                      Don't know. Short somehow? I've seen bad or loose relays cause all sorts of running/starting issues with e30s. Anyway, easy enough to check and rule out. That and fuse 11 are always the starting points for fuel supply issues.

                      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • B
                        B
                        Boris3
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #11

                        Couple threads for ideas:

                        Wiring issues

                        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=258998

                        http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104196

                        Clogged fuel filter issue

                        http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1884741-What-can-cause-fuel-pump-fuse-to-blow

                        1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • jc43089J
                          jc43089J
                          jc43089
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #12

                          I just checked on my 7/88 325i and the resistance from the relay socket on pin 87 to body ground was 1.5 ohms.  This should be measuring through the pump and back through the body, if the value is lower then more current will flow.  12V / 1.5ohms = 8A, this would seem about right, is it a 10A fuse?  Definitely check for sort circuits in the places mentioned in the linked threads.  Very easy to have damaged insulation on a 25 year old car.  Mine has an orange relay BTW.  Hope this helps, let me know if there is anything else I can check.

                          2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                          3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                          '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                          '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                          '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                          '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                          '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • 6670charger6
                            6670charger6
                            6670charger
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #13

                            Just got the word from the shop. It was the pump shorting out. Oh well. Was hoping to avoid a $350 bill, but, I guess I can't dodge all of those bullets. Have done so with every other one so far.

                            Thanks for all of the info folks! I'll hold onto it for future reference.

                            Eric

                            88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

                            66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

                            Appleton, WI

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • jc43089J
                              jc43089J
                              jc43089
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #14

                              Good deal, glad it's figured out, at least the pump is accessible under the back seat rather than having to drop the whole tank.

                              2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                              3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                              '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                              '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                              '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                              '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                              '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • B
                                B
                                Boris3
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #15

                                Good to hear they pinned it down. Any sense of why the pump was shorting out and where exactly the short was?

                                1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • 6670charger6
                                  6670charger6
                                  6670charger
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #16

                                  Boris3 said:

                                  Good to hear they pinned it down. Any sense of why the pump was shorting out and where exactly the short was?

                                  Yes. Turns out that at some point, don't know who, where, or when, the bottom of the gas tank got dented at a point directly in line with the pump. This resulted in the strainer getting broken off, and over time, the pump must have sucked up some dirt or gunk in the tank which overloaded it and caused it to short out.

                                  88 325ic, Cirrus Blau; 120,000 miles

                                  66 Dodge Charger, red/black, mileage unknown

                                  Appleton, WI

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0

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