E30 M50 tear down kinda thing
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I actually weight lifted quite a bit once joining the military. I know for a fact I'll be able to out deadlift you. But aside from that, I've got goofy long arms, that suck for benching.
Twas a joke. I dont actually lift. I dont care who can lift more. Its lifting.
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bro, you dont even lift?
Ever since age 19 and 5 months I decided that rolling the window down and jamming my arm down on the lock-pull was a more effective way to make my biceps bulge for the delight of wimmen
Every time.
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My new upper tensioner came last week, and pelican even sent an e46 m3 sticker along with it. This will be going on my evo hood hanging in my office at work.
Also polished the copper nuts that came with my exhaust manifold stud kit.
Heres a before and after
I also have a question for these, since I wasnt able to find anything online. Do you just put the new studs in hand tight with loc-tite or something? The studs dont have an allen head on the end so it will be hard to get a lot of torque on them.
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i like your polished nuts
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use a jam-nut configuration to install the studs. 2 wrenches, 2 nuts, snug them down against eachother, then you can use a wrench on the 2nd nut you installed to drive the whole thing since nut#1 will be blocking it from climbing up the threads.
In my 30 seconds of searching this is the closest image I can come up with to demonstrate what I am saying.
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use a jam-nut configuration to install the studs. 2 wrenches, 2 nuts, snug them down against eachother, then you can use a wrench on the 2nd nut you installed to drive the whole thing since nut#1 will be blocking it from climbing up the threads.
The kit came with jam nuts to get the old ones off. You just use the jam nuts to put the stud in as far as it will go? Any loc-tite needed?
Also Brian, thank you for answering a large majority of the questions Ive had throughout this whole tear down.
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Install the studs with a little bit of blue loctite (high temp is preferred but blue should work fine) all the way in until they stop turning and add just enough torque ("not-going-anywhere" Newton Meters of torque) to create some compression forces on the threads to keep it from loosening on itself.
The way I have always done things is that the exhaust stud is held in by the compression forces generated by snugging it down, the threadlocker is there to add a bit of tack as a backup, but primarily to provide some protection against corrosion and to help it be removable in the future without breaking as easily.
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