2010 328i M Sport // Build Thread
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Totally worth it, but sadly they don't offer the alum skid plate kit for the M Sport trim
I'll have to do some more research and see if anyone makes one!
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Well that seems like poor oversight
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Little update after taking off the plastic under-tray. Seems as if the item in the road actually hit the center support so hard it bent it INTO the front subframe, denting it. Doesn't seem to have bent it or thrown anything out of alignment, but I'm certainly no expert. Anyone have any advice or insight on the severity of a hit like this?
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Holy cow!
Right?! By the sound of it I was surprised it didn't shoot right through the floor lol. I immediately pulled over, shut the car off and crawled under expecting oil to be everywhere. I suppose this is better than if it hit the oil pan or trans huh!
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Other than you knowing it's there that shouldn't hurt anything.
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Little update after taking off the plastic under-tray. Seems as if the item in the road actually hit the center support so hard it bent it INTO the front subframe, denting it. Doesn't seem to have bent it or thrown anything out of alignment, but I'm certainly no expert. Anyone have any advice or insight on the severity of a hit like this?
A solid smack!
You should be fine, I'd just glance there in say 6 months to make sure it isn't wearing against it / wearing a hole through it.
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Other than you knowing it's there that shouldn't hurt anything.
A solid smack!
You should be fine, I'd just glance there in say 6 months to make sure it isn't wearing against it / wearing a hole through it.
Always a bit spooky when alum parts get hit that hard! I appreciate the insight guys, just going to replace the steel center brace and under tray and call it a day
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Time to tackle the big chungus of N52 oil leaks. Could BMW have achieved the 50/50 weight distribution without putting the pan directly above the subframe/steering rack? Of course not! It was a fairly minor leak and the under tray caught all of it, but just don't want it leaking on my driveway. Luckily the car had the valve cover, spark plug tube seals, both eccentric shaft seals and oil filter housing gaskets replaced in the last 7k miles. Feels worth it to button up the last of the oil leak possibilities.
Little before and after of the oil pan gasket and hardware replacement. Nice to no longer piss oil everywhere
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A fresh undertray after fixing the oil leaks has to feel wonderful!
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A fresh undertray after fixing the oil leaks has to feel wonderful!
Like a clean pair of underwear after trusting a fart
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Sell it to me
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Sell it to me
Ah see but then I'd have to officially take the loss of overpaying for the car! Only half joking but, I really do love this thing. It's in storage since it felt wrong to expose it to it's first winter when I have that extra parts bin of an M3 I've been driving
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I drove the E90 on and off through the past couple years virtually without issue... until recently. It developed a rare issue where the car would completely lose power after turning it off. A single jump start would fix it, and it would run fine again for several months. It was like it was bridging the gap of a shitty connection somewhere. I didn't think much of it, but it ended up killing the cars electronic footwell module. This ECU is supposedly very susceptible to voltage spikes killing it. Sadly this thing controls headlights, blinkers, central locking system, windows, amongst a ton of other critical stuff. I tried replacing the FRM with a used one and coding it to the car, which did work for 24hrs. Sadly, for god knows what reason, that one shit the bed too. I sent off the original FRM to an ECU repair shop, to which they pinged me today saying they could not figure out what is wrong with it. So the car sits for now
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Sounds like a super annoying issue. I would get a voltmeter and see if you can find the OEM voltage inputs and outputs and test for variations. Ive been there, voltage issues are a pain.
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Have you checked the ground strap under the car going from engine to frame?
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Sounds like a super annoying issue. I would get a voltmeter and see if you can find the OEM voltage inputs and outputs and test for variations. Ive been there, voltage issues are a pain.
After some testing I did find that the original source of the electrical issue was stemming from a faulty battery - I think from improper winter storage which was my fault. It was a 2022 date stamp so I was pretty surprised! Sadly since I was too lazy to test/fix this sooner, it fried the footwell module
Have you checked the ground strap under the car going from engine to frame?
I didn't think to check the ground strap, but after an absurd amount of testing I did figure it out finally. In the end it was more difficult to fix the damage caused by the faulty battery than it was to fix the original issue. That's what I get for being lazy!
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