The One That Didn't Get Away [100K Mile E30 325is]
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@suspenceful can sure do some nice stuff with cameras.
Those seats look mint!
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@suspenceful can sure do some nice stuff with cameras.
Those seats look mint!
I try my best to be as gentle as possible getting in and out of them. Probably should do another leather treatment on them.
Real nice day out today. Got the rear valence painted and swapped the rear stud conversion from the Calypso car to the red one.
Then vs. now, miss the E46
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Maybe it’s from the cold the past couple of days, and not driving it due to the rain, but my clutch and throttle pedal have a small squeak like the Top Gear brake pedal on the old people car.
Might be time to replace the bushings on the pedal or break out the L U B E
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Probably EAA as well...It's incredibly depressing.
F
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Got the cluster working fully.
After some reading around, figured the problem was the batteries on the SI board giving me the issue. With the Calypso car currently sitting in a state of disarray(which I feel bad about), I thought I remembered the whole cluster from that car working. Reviewed a video that @GunMetalGrey sent me a year or so back of the first start and confirmed it did work. Pulled the clusters from both cars and just swapped the SI board from the Calypso car to the red one. Batteries from the SI board on the red car looked rough, very crusty at the ends, safe to assume that was causing the issue.
The batteries on the SI board of the Calypso car looked like the new, smaller lithium ion ones. Almost as if they were replaced at one point? @YoungCR? Don't know if between 89 and 90 they changed battery styles. Regardless, cluster works, have tach, temp gauge, and fuel economy now. Temp was sitting a little shy of center, could be off calibration, or maybe thermostat isn't opening all of the way? Want to do the full "tune up" accessory/hose replacement anyway.
Link to video, not sure the correct way to share through here without uploading to youtube.
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Had the big dent on the hood pulled and the majority of them on the doors and quarter panels. Had it taken care of this morning. Wanted to get this taken care of before I had the paint corrected.
I know most people would opt for a different motor than the M20, but I’ve really been enjoying it. Really great for the casual cruising and still comes alive above 5k. I also have the weird dichotomy of loving fast cars, but don't really have the need for speed much.
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car looks great! jealous of your fully working cluster.
i loved my m20, so smooth! its the right amount of power that you can wring it out without really going too fast. they also sound better than 24v, imho.
Dan
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car looks great! jealous of your fully working cluster.
i loved my m20, so smooth! its the right amount of power that you can wring it out without really going too fast. they also sound better than 24v, imho.
My plan is to get this motor refreshed so that it’s in good operational order for the time being. But I would like to do a mild striker build down the road. I know the cost to performance is not great, but an M20 with a little more punch and grunt would be fun.
Also, this:
I realize this is a fully built motor, sounds amazing though.
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The non-optimized 3.1 L M20 w/ 288 cams I had some seat time with was every bit as good as an S52 swap but with more character and top end pull.
As you already know, its very cost-prohibitive but overall probably about the same amount of cost and effort as a properly done S52 swap.
M20’s are easy.
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My plan is to get this motor refreshed so that it’s in good operational order for the time being. But I would like to do a mild striker build down the road. I know the cost to performance is not great, but an M20 with a little more punch and grunt would be fun.
Also, this:
I realize this is a fully built motor, sounds amazing though.
Yum, that drive by reminds me of standing on the hill before turn 5 at RA.
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The non-optimized 3.1 L M20 w/ 288 cams I had some seat time with was every bit as good as an S52 swap but with more character and top end pull.
As you already know, its very cost-prohibitive but overall probably about the same amount of cost and effort as a properly done S52 swap.
M20’s are easy.
What is needed for a 3.1? I've really only seen 2.7 and 2.9 examples.
Yum, that drive by reminds me of standing on the hill before turn 5 at RA.
It's because of the T R E E S.
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With a car as clean and low mileage as yours I'd definitely be inclined to keep the original engine. There is absolutely no shame in liking an M20, they're pretty hard to hate! I'd love one to play around with again at some point.
I totally agree that M20's (and the M30) are some of the best sounding BMW engines too, anything newer has absolutely nothing on them.
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With a car as clean and low mileage as yours I'd definitely be inclined to keep the original engine. There is absolutely no shame in liking an M20, they're pretty hard to hate! I'd love one to play around with again at some point.
I totally agree that M20's (and the M30) are some of the best sounding BMW engines too, anything newer has absolutely nothing on them.
This is the plan for the foreseeable future. My only plans for it are maintenance and an exhaust.
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I know most people would opt for a different motor than the M20, but I’ve really been enjoying it. Really great for the casual cruising and still comes alive above 5k. I also have the weird dichotomy of loving fast cars, but don't really have the need for speed much.
That's exactly why I decided to spend money on refreshing the M20 rather than doing a swap. IMO, the amount of power is perfect. You can give it the beans and have a ton of fun on the backroads while not overly exceeding the speed limit. When I had my "stage 2" S60R it was too easy to go too fast. And at the end of the day, what was the point of it? In that second it was a lot of fun, but what I could have done to myself (with 3 kids) or someone else wasn't worth it. I sold it shortly after having that revelation.
Rebuilding my m20 gave me a lot of respect for the engine and its place in the car.
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That's exactly why I decided to spend money on refreshing the M20 rather than doing a swap. IMO, the amount of power is perfect. You can give it the beans and have a ton of fun on the backroads while not overly exceeding the speed limit. When I had my "stage 2" S60R it was too easy to go too fast. And at the end of the day, what was the point of it? In that second it was a lot of fun, but what I could have done to myself (with 3 kids) or someone else wasn't worth it. I sold it shortly after having that revelation.
Rebuilding my m20 gave me a lot of respect for the engine and its place in the car.
I'm going to be doing a lot of reviewing your thread down the road.
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What is needed for a 3.1? I've really only seen 2.7 and 2.9 examples.
https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/ie-3-1l-stroker-kit-m20/
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https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/ie-3-1l-stroker-kit-m20/
Yellow text on a white background is horrid.
That being said, this is very interesting. I see they suggest a WAR chip or running MS in addition to bigger injectors. If the WAR chip is an acceptable ECU tune, that would be prefer over going complete stand alone.
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WAR chip is acceptable on an OBD1 E36, but junk on an E30. The MAF conversion is very problematic. MS2 plug and play is just fine. Get it setup correctly and a dyno tune and you shouldnt have to touch it anymore and have a much better diagnostic and logging ability. The drivability and throttle response improvement are worth it alone on a stock M20
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WAR chip is acceptable on an OBD1 E36, but junk on an E30. The MAF conversion is very problematic. MS2 plug and play is just fine. Get it setup correctly and a dyno tune and you shouldnt have to touch it anymore and have a much better diagnostic and logging ability. The drivability and throttle response improvement are worth it alone on a stock M20
The war chip is junk in general. Don't bother.
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