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Non-BMW Stuff on a BMW Forum

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  • G
    G
    gilber33
    wrote on last edited by
    #648

    Boris3 said:

    see last post here. Revshift replies on same issue

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/suspension-unsprung/brakes-subframe-arms/253855-revshift-rtab-issues

    That person has the opposite issue. Their sleeve is too short.

    I can try installing them again with their method. But even when the bushings were fully seated, and the sleeve installed, the sleeve stuck out one side 1/16" or so. I had to use a mallet to pound the trailing arms into the subframe brackets because the sleeve was that much wider than the bracket.

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    • B
      B
      Boris3
      wrote on last edited by
      #649

      Just out of curiosity if you assemble the pieces without installing them in the trailing arm, like the garagistic picture above, does the sleeve fit flush?

      1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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      • B
        B
        Boris3
        wrote on last edited by
        #650

        Reason I ask is that the trailing arms bend. It would help to rule out if the issue is the arms or the revshift setup.  No dog in this fight. I've got the Garagistic reenforced subframe and bushings in my car.    😁

        1990 325i racecar (ITS, former Spec E30); 2004 330i ZHP

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        • G
          G
          gilber33
          wrote on last edited by
          #651

          Boris3 said:

          Just out of curiosity if you assemble the pieces without installing them in the trailing arm, like the garagistic picture above, does the sleeve fit flush?

          I'll try tonight. When I took them out of the packaging I noticed that with the bushings "installed" on the bench - not in the traling arm - the sleeve protruded out quite a bit. I thought it was weird but assumed that's how it was supposed to be.

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          • straight6pwrS
            straight6pwrS
            straight6pwr
            wrote on last edited by
            #652

            so the bushings fit fine, but you've pulled one side out (and created that gap) to match it to the length of the metal sleeve?

            does the length of the metal sleeve match the gap between the subframe brackets?

            Dan
            yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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            • G
              G
              gilber33
              wrote on last edited by
              #653

              straight6pwr said:

              so the bushings fit fine, but you've pulled one side out (and created that gap) to match it to the length of the metal sleeve?

              Bushings fit into the arm fine. I installed both bushings flush. Pressed in the sleeve and it sticks out one side pretty significantly. The gap is shown between the arm and the lip of the bushing because they must have shifted around during install. I didn't intentionally create that gap there. I had installed the arms with the bushings flush against the arms and the gap at one side (as shown in my pic below). But the act of pounding them in must have created the gap where it is.  

              straight6pwr said:

              does the length of the metal sleeve match the gap between the subframe brackets?

              Not at all. I needed to use a mallet to pound the trailing arms into the brackets. Here's a rough sketch to show the difference between the bushing and the bracket. 

              8EDE1D4A-DF07-471A-85B5-5F62DD3AE5A2.jpeg

              Edit: I finally got a hold of someone at Revshift and they said that the small gap is to be expected. He said that their bushings and sleeve have a small amount of "play" in them to ensure they fit for variations in the size of the subframe brackets due to age of the car and inconsistencies in production of the car. He said that once everything is put together; springs, shocks, swaybars, etc., that little bit of gap will not affect anything. He did say he has had customers trim down the sleeve to fit their car better, but that you need to be careful doing that because you do not want to be tightening the subframe brackets against the bushings since the bushings need to rotate on the sleeve, and the not the control arm rotating on the bushings. 

              image.png

              Still a little skeptical. Part of me wants to toss in OEM rubber bushings and call it a day.

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              • The Full BananaT
                The Full BananaT
                The Full Banana
                wrote on last edited by
                #654

                Looks like they've designed them to enhance snap oversteer for additional ditch trajectory.

                Tom - I have a few BMWs, an overworked Volvo 242, and now a YouTube channel called Drive, Revive, Tinker

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • JdesignJ
                  JdesignJ
                  Jdesign
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #655

                  Just shave it down a hair and be done with it. you will find out later if it matters or not when you are winching the car from a ditch.

                  SumBunny.jpg

                  https://www.instagram.com/_jdesigner_/                                          http://nevertoolow.tumblr.com/

                  🥳SOLD BMW E24 633CSI - BMW M30B32                                          🧪SOLD HCH  ES9 - 1.3 LDA
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                  • G
                    G
                    gilber33
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #656

                    I'm taking them out and trimming the sleeves.

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                    • jc43089J
                      jc43089J
                      jc43089
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #657

                      Maybe measure the length of the sleeves on the original bushings and trim these to match?

                      2/94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
                      3/93 325i Coupe, Schwarz 2, Sketchy stance action, ebay turbo, 300k
                      '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped, sold.

                      '04 Toyota Sienna: 24V to 24V swap in progress

                      '05 Volvo V70R, 6spd.  200k
                      '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
                      '99 Nissan Maxima: 5spd, Rusty but trusty winter beater. 252k RIP.

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                      • G
                        G
                        gilber33
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #658

                        jc43089 said:

                        Maybe measure the length of the sleeves on the original bushings and trim these to match?

                        That is a really good idea had I not thrown the old ones away after I melted them.

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                        • G
                          G
                          gilber33
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #659

                          Bushings flush on the arm and the sleeve flush on one side. This is how much it sticks out. 

                          AAE83C14-D3D8-416D-81DA-99FD8489122A.jpeg
                           

                          Sleeves trimmed and test fitted. I have new poly grease coming from amazon to lube it all up. 
                           

                          33F5A060-E90C-4720-9132-A8E287094772.jpeg

                          589C3878-60A3-4233-915F-0ED45A8E50B9.jpeg

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                          • straight6pwrS
                            straight6pwrS
                            straight6pwr
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #660

                            that looks better!

                            Dan
                            yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                            • G
                              G
                              gilber33
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #661

                              Passenger footwell done. 

                              5228DEFD-60A2-4CB3-B9C8-89906EB41F4C.jpeg

                              6EDA2C61-E413-4EB8-A1C3-DEACADBD8EE4.jpeg

                              Found these two little rust holes under the rear seat. Anyone know what’s right there? Both sides have a small hole in the exact same place. 
                               

                              CA0DC3A0-D0E2-4D52-86CB-82D8622366A5.jpeg

                              872C42A4-FDD0-48F3-B406-BF4DBF82F608.jpeg
                               

                              I found this other rust hole. Any suggestions on fixing this one? Removing the battery cable to make access would be easy, but the rest of the hoses are fuel vent lines, correct? And they look like they would be rather difficult to move out of the way. 
                               

                              742C0FBD-9E2B-4C9B-9B8F-96C94353F4DD.jpeg

                              And needs a couple more coats, but the carpets are getting there. They look stripey because after each coat I have been brushing it in. It’s dry this morning and looks significantly better. 

                              444EADB3-8C8D-4371-8627-CF24D596CA1E.jpeg
                               

                              Also had some beer going while I was working tonight. 
                               

                              236FDC59-22CE-497A-8928-7044054809B6.jpeg

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                              • straight6pwrS
                                straight6pwrS
                                straight6pwr
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #662

                                not 100% sure, but the brackets for the two rear gas tank mounting bolts might be hung under those square sections. I've never had the gas tank out of an e30, so I do not know for sure.

                                this under chassis  picture leads me to believe they are, and the three rust spots you're seeing on them are the spot welds that hold that bracket on.

                                rotisserie03.jpg

                                Dan
                                yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                                • G
                                  G
                                  gilber33
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #663

                                  I believe you are correct. I looked at my posts earlier of under the car and those brackets seem to line up when comparing them to the grommets where wires pass through the floor. I was going to just do a topical patch with seam sealer, but I need to pull all the tank vent lines to fix that hole in the wheel well, so it might just make sense to pull the tank out and properly fix those two spots. They’ll be easy ones to fix. 

                                  34CB0307-ACF1-4386-9436-3921AC5161F5.jpeg

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                                  • G
                                    G
                                    gilber33
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #664

                                    Confirmed tank mounts are what’s rusted out. 

                                    89EBC727-9106-4747-9BBD-E333A207F0AE.jpeg

                                    9FED3456-1436-4AFD-87A2-41D6AD53735E.jpeg

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                                    • straight6pwrS
                                      straight6pwrS
                                      straight6pwr
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #665

                                      glad you caught this now instead of later when your tank would be riding on top of your driveshaft!

                                      Dan
                                      yajsYRL.jpg.e5f350b4dfe961d76ac8b32efce2e1a6.jpg

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                                      • G
                                        G
                                        gilber33
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #666

                                        straight6pwr said:

                                        glad you caught this now instead of later when your tank would be riding on top of your driveshaft! 

                                        I didn’t even think about that since these are the only two brackets on the backside of the tank. 😬

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                                        • G
                                          G
                                          gilber33
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #667

                                          One down. Marked some guidelines for the mount.

                                          14203B7B-17F7-4A9B-8260-146A65823773.jpeg

                                          Cut it out. Then cut a patch piece and used the mount cut out from the car for some guidelines on the patch. Cut off the actual mount and welded it on to the new metal.

                                          02B8174A-0FBE-4BFF-A922-C09F01066FD9.jpeg

                                          And then welded that into the car. 

                                          BF03D0AB-7535-4E96-8497-1D7C7E10A222.jpeg

                                          9B23AC07-0A8B-48FC-9C27-C0021B964FAE.jpeg

                                          8E331402-2F36-4E9F-8268-297EA7B2FECA.jpeg
                                           

                                          Coated the seams with seam sealer and then will do the same as the footwells and coat it with Por15.

                                          1 Reply Last reply
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