upgrading just the front bar is one way to help correct oversteer.

YoungCR said: @The Full Banana made an adapter plate for a getrag to mate to one of the volvo motors.  Yup he is sporting getrag 265 mated to volvo whiteblock.  I guess ill rotate it and if it wont work i will move to Australia. or cut the bellhousing and reweld it at proper angle whichever comes cheaper.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll have to check on the battery. It cranked for a long time, but has always seemed a little sluggish.

as HipMF stated, I had this happen once in a blue moon, but never could even look into it because it would be gone before I could. for the brake light circuit code, try re-seating the taillight brake bulbs. historically, that always worked for me. I think they shake loose and the slight short causes the code.

It's something that isn't commercially available, but would be a fun time to make happen. I could stare at RealOEM for awhile and probably come up with something.  2" is a reasonable amount

straight6pwr said: this question was refreshing. the standard e30 message board wheel fitment question goes like this: "GUYZ, CAN I FIT ET -50 ON MY E30 WITHOUT ROLLING MY FENDERZ? I FOUND SOME IN A DITCH AND WANT TO RUN THEM. WILL IT RUB?" Everyone tells them no, they do it anyway, then post a pic with "HeY gUyS wHaT wIdE BoDy ShOuLd I gEt?!?1" [image: image.png]

Appreciate all the replies. I believe that blank rotors(zimmerman from FCP for that warranty) and the Stop Tech pads are the way I'll be going. I have 3 $10 gift cards for Turner Motor Sport, so I'm going to buy the lines through them.

How annoying. I would make sure the spare you had is in working order. I just went through an issue of replacing a switch with 3 bad ones not knowing they were bad causing me to think it wasn't the switch. I would also put my vote on the drivers door switch as it is used the most and likely the first to wear out.

vbhargava said: Thoughts on this procedure? https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=246743 That's the way to go if you want to spend the money and do it right. 

+6 on alignment. I string align all my cars because its too expensive to pay someone who does a shit job. I cannot tell you how many times I have dropped a car off for a 3 hour alignment just to drive it home with the steering wheel 20 degrees off center.

New SI board batteries too?

Ideally I could get it done at a shop in a few hours, but I suppose I could have a shop remove the DME and send to someone else. I don't have a good place to work on my car, as I live downtown Milwaukee. It is also my only car, so it's not ideal to have it out of commission for multiple days.

Nothing so spine crushing. The used shorter Konis I picked up were revalved for the old GC e30 M3 kit at 550/650. Got a deal on the new GC NASA SE30 coilover sleeve and spring kit so will start out with 525/700.  Merl picked up the full GC race package with race valved konis and 650/900 for his e30.  Should be interesting. Next up alignment and corner weighting.

You's guys R da bess ️

snap said: http://maksinjection.com/?product=bosch-0280-155-746-19-injectors-set-of-6 There are a few different injectors that would, I have run about 7 different types of injectors and for an M20 with chip tune, these are the best.  maksinjection can be mediocre in communication or product quality. ive dealt with them on 4 or so occasions. I have had injectors they have serviced that were stuck open. They replaced them but at times they were difficult to contact.   Ultimately they are cheap and worth the gamble.  Otherwise search for Bosch 0280 155 746 injectors on Ebay and see if you can find a matched set from a reputable shop like injector-rehab.com or others  This is all a good upgrade but you will get used to the power pretty shortly and need more.  Thanks @snap . Agreed on the power problem, at some point I switch to the E39 M5 when speed, handling, and power are craved. That being said the E30 is still my most entertaining car.

Ended up ordering the M20 RHD flywheel. It looks like the solution to the clutch conundrum comes from an S14, although ECS still can't seem to decide whether the disc is sprung or not... [image: OKlAKkj.png] Edit: I guess it should be noted here that, according to the internet, the M20 flywheel, clutch and throwout bearing stack is slightly shorter than the M42 setup, which is why the longer e21 323i throwout bearing is normally required. Aaaaand the ring gear is different, which requires an M20 starter. Once I have everything in-hand I intend to assemble it all on the bench to make sure everything lines up between the stock M42 stuff and my hodge-podge setup.

RobZR said: How's around lunchtime?  I'll just take a loooong lunch and stop over. I'm good with that.  I'll PM you my phone number so you can let me know your eta.

I cant help much with location, but I can suggest you start a list and work your way down till you find the closest option? Big bear (Oconomowoc) Offsets Garage (might?) JR @ Midcoast (West Allis) International Auto (West Allis) Bobby @ Apex Auto (Madison) Sikandar Govani @ HI-Performance Fabrication & Tuning (also know as national muffler and brake) (Milwaukee)

straight6pwr said: nice work! looks like you went with the 3800k? I love the near halogen color, and they are brighter than the whiter colored bulbs. Thanks! Those were the halogen bulbs I used for testing before committing to buying xenons. I went 5800k per my usual.  Jdesign said: These look great. any pics of what they looked like on the back of the headlight housing? I don't have any pictures of the backs, it honestly looks the same as stock though.  I forgot to add the pictures with new bulbs in, so I threw those up in the original post.

If I had room for it I'd pick it up in a heartbeat just to have an extra. Because e30. Great price!