Anyone have lifter buckets for sale, I believe any late ones will do, m/s52, m54.  Or should I just buy new ones?

I'll bring the welder!!

mfg saved big money!

My relative owns a body shop down on 38th and National called Platinum Collision Center. They do great work and could easily paint a door you find at a junk yard for a good price. I had them paint the gas tank on my Triumph Daytona and it turned out great!

Here is a pic of the new antenna on the car. [image: post-2724-0-74715600-1381978379\_thumb.jp]

6670charger said: I'm feeling pretty awesome. it's what the thread is all about  [image: ]

So where do you get a Spectra tank?  I went to their website, and they don't seem to offer anything for the E30 in gas tanks in their on-line catalogue.  Is there some other vendor?

jc43089 said: Also try putting the torx bit in the screw and then tapping on it with a hammer before trying to turn it, sometimes the jarring will help.  Yep.  Will try that too.  Plan on working on the distributor tomorrow.  If all goes well, and doesn't take too long, I may delve into the rest of the project too.

Snap said: Just do it.  [image: stock-nike-logo.jpg]

reseat the hose and run 2 clamps with the adjusters staggered

Pm me and maybe we can work something out.

Thanks.  That at least helps me understand how the seats come apart should I have to go that route.  I have power to the switches, as they light up when I turn them on.  Just don't feel any real difference in seat temperature when the switch is in the on position. i assume that the forward-most switch on the console is for the driver's seat.  Guess I should make sure of that as I've never found any reference anywhere, even in the owner's manual that specifies which switch is for which seat.  I've tried both switches, though, and neither seems to make any real difference in seat temp.

Yes, bushings can fail in 40k miles. Not unheard of. Especially if the diff mounts were on their way out. Usually if your subframe bushings are bad then your driveline mounts will be suspect. I've went through motor mounts in my E46 330 (s/c'd) in a year. I had the powerflex rear subframe bushings which seemed to be fine after about 35k miles and 40 hours of track time.

I will take you up on that if I can't get them in redneck style.

It sat on a trickle charger from 9/21 to today. The battery voltage was 14.2v when I tried to start it. All electronics work and the starter kicks in with no issues but it is not engaging the flywheel. As far as why we had a loss of oil... I looked everything over and cannot find an obvious leak. The ps hoses were wet and the crank pulley had a little oil on the bottom of it. I am baffled at this point which is why I want to start it to see if I can ID a leak from underneath.

ECS tuning carries the headlight lenses for a decent price

I was figuring that much think I'm gonna go for the manual seats with leather also e28 is really coming along and looking damn sexy

For future reference, other than what was said here, I have a couple misc things to add. I have had my share of e30 m20 no starts. 1. If no crank, there is a wire that connects to the starter sometimes refered to as the "exciter" wire. Sometimes it gets corroded or loose. It has a 90* crimped connector on it. 2. There needs to be oil in the engine and the oil level sensor on the top of the oil pan needs to be plugged in. The car wont get an injector pulse. 3. Loose cap and rotor. Be careful with those bolts for the upper timing cover, they attach to the aluminum cylinder head. If they are loose, your going to missfire. 4. The crank position sensor and reference sensor connectors on the engine harness are very close and can be swapped accidentally. 5. Some years had an injector harness connector. This can get filled with corrosion and cause no injector pulse, but rare in my opinion. 6. Major vacuum leak.

I have the centered hole m3 ones, I took them to my neighbor's auto shop, he knocked the old ones out with the air chisel and put the new ones in with a bottle jack type of press.  My wife makes them a batch of cookies and we are even lol. I cut the rubber out with a box cutter. [image: MIAHELPING015\_zps4a72662c.jpg]

Update, just to further clarify.  Head is on and car is running like a champ.  M50 cams and trays are slightly different than m52 but the profile is the same.  The later cams are fatter for less vibration or something like that.  And the trays have material removed to accommodate the thicker cams.  Long story short, run an early head and get an extra temp sender port.