GunMetalGrey said:

I'm a bit confused by this statement.
You got a component system, and didn't run the crossover? Are you not using the tweeters on the 9630?

At any rate, I have the same speakers in the Titan (to replace one blown speaker...) and have been pleased with their quality and ability to handle high volume with great clarity. 

To connect the crossovers with the door speakers, they both have to route to the cross over. One way shape or form, some wire has to pass through the door for either the tweeter or the door speaker. I was not about to drill a hole through the molex connector in the door loom(which is how I saw people were doing it). And I don’t want to have a miscellaneous wire hanging in the door. Next time you’re back, you can hook it up and route it for me

I am using the tweeters, just have them connected to the factory tweeter harness.

Thank you to @YoungCRfor creating a separate thread for this. What I should have done from the beginning.

I said I would be done with mods, and I kind of lied. Albeit, this one isn’t a new item, but more of a rerouting. I was tired of having my phone cable strewn over my center console area from having to plug into the Sync ports at the front of the console. I also couldn’t ever close this roll top door at the front of the console due to this cable running out of it. The importance of the cable, is that it connects my iPhone to the truck to utilize Apple Car Play. Since this isn’t a 2021, I do not have wireless Car Play and have to have a hard wire connection like a peasant.

The solution? Drill.

Pulled the shifter trim surround off and was able to make some small holes in a couple of places to allow me to snake the iPhone cable through the structure of the center console to allow me to still use the function of the cable, but have it “hidden”. 
 

This took me about 10 minutes, $2 in grommets, and made my center console area way more orderly. Love the result.

SteelBlue said:

This came with crossovers, but trying to route the wires is not something I am interested in taking on at the time being. Future project.

I'm a bit confused by this statement.
You got a component system, and didn't run the crossover? Are you not using the tweeters on the 9630?

At any rate, I have the same speakers in the Titan (to replace one blown speaker...) and have been pleased with their quality and ability to handle high volume with great clarity.

GunMetalGrey said:

^That looks great sir
And we know I'm a condescending asshole who never has anything nice to say, so this is high honors. 

This is my first attempt into car audio so ordering through Crutchfield was a big help and the included adapters made things really straight forward for the door speakers. Tweeter and center console was some pretty straight forward butt connections.

This came with crossovers, but trying to route the wires is not something I am interested in taking on at the time being. Future project. You can see there’s a pretty significant difference in just the speaker build alone:

Overall, worthwhile improvement. Significant increase in just overall sound quality and texture, which is exactly what I wanted. A little additional bass as well. After doing this, I think a sub is required. Kicker makes a powered sub that fits behind the rear bench seat that looks just like the OEM style ones.

REKIII said:

Agreed on the interiors.  Ford is way ahead.  Looked and looked for an F250 Lariat Black edition Diesel and couldn't find one, dealers that had them wouldn't deal on my truck, dealers that didn't were offering me the moon for it....so weird.  So, I found a Sierra and made a deal.  Very weird, but I made out OK.

Your coworkers truck looks great!  Ask him if he's interested in a RPG bumpstop kit, or fender liners, or mudflaps, or 2" drop shackles or Cobb Tuner.  All new in box (except the cobb, I'd have to see if it can be sold or if it's permanently married to my old truck).  I have some parts to get rid of..... hahaha.

Same experience looking for an F250 XLT diesel in velocity blue.  I came across a couple where the “market adjustments” were astronomical as well. I’m holding out for a bit since my F150 still does what i need it to.

Your coworkers truck looks great!  Ask him if he's interested in a RPG bumpstop kit, or fender liners, or mudflaps, or 2" drop shackles or Cobb Tuner.  All new in box (except the cobb, I'd have to see if it can be sold or if it's permanently married to my old truck).  I have some parts to get rid of..... hahaha.

GunMetalGrey said:

You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about? 

Exactly.

SteelBlue said:

Gen 2 raptor is the dream for an unnecessary daily driver. Not a huge fan of the newer GM interiors, think the Ford ones are better.

Funny enough a co worker has pretty much Raptor I want, in the same color as well.

You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about?

REKIII said:

I'm getting all jelly with your ford mods.  Recently sold my Gen2 Raptor and picked up a Sierra.  What a different world.

Huge pile of mods to do to it to 'make it mine'  Should be fun, but I do miss the Ford.
Love the color of yours, great choice on the wheels!!!

Gen 2 raptor is the dream for an unnecessary daily driver. Not a huge fan of the newer GM interiors, think the Ford ones are better.

Funny enough a co worker has pretty much Raptor I want, in the same color as well.

Huge pile of mods to do to it to 'make it mine'  Should be fun, but I do miss the Ford.
Love the color of yours, great choice on the wheels!!!

KaiserRolls said:

Keep the air dam. Looks great 

I plan to keep it.

Train keeps rolling with the modifications. This one both functional and aesthetic. @patsbimmer1 has me able to actually see properly at night time now with these Alpharex LUXX LED protector headlights. I swapped the halogen bulbs for some LED ones in the stock housings when I first got the truck. Albeit an improvement, it was incremental. These headlights actually have a defined cut off point and do a great job illuminating the road. After driving my moms new Acadia that had good headlights, I’ve needed that for my own vehicle.

I think the black housings, projector “eyes”, and DRL planks fit the truck well without looking overly aftermarket.

I was very much against having to use an additional wire harness for the DRLs as I want to have as minimal intrusions to the actual functioning parts of the vehicle and to not have a rats nest under the hood. Think the tuck job came out well and was able to make a couple small notches in the fuse box for the trigger wire to run through that still allows the box to seal properly.

The look was exactly what I was going for and I am really glad I took a chance on the bronze, think they great on the truck. Wheel to tire to wheel well ratio is perfect IMO, no rubbing at all.

GunMetalGrey said:

I look forward to seeing the new wheels on! 
I'd say the new decals look just fine, and I agree that they are far better than the stock blue ovals!

I enjoy that we are all here because at some point we were working on BMW's, but at the end of the day it doesn't matter what we own, because it will be getting modified. 
 

It’s fun to try new things

I enjoy that we are all here because at some point we were working on BMW's, but at the end of the day it doesn't matter what we own, because it will be getting modified.

I had the windows tinted with 3M ceramic because I didn’t realize how much more heat comes in with the larger windows on a truck. Really like the look as well. 70% on the windshield, 20% on the front door windows, and then 70% on the rear door windows and back of the cab over the factory window tint to even out the fronts. 
 

Two of the wheels have arrived, hoping the two others will be here tomorrow or Friday. Will get them mounted on the tires whichever day they come in and then hopefully on the truck that same night. Getting close.

YoungCR said:

Looks great, wheel liners especially. Ive always felt that should've been a factory thing especially in snow climates.

Don't worry, it's a $325 option on a new truck!

Did a mechanical decon of the paint two weekends ago and did one layer of Jescar paint sealant and then two layers of Collonite 845 wax on top. Will keep me sane until I get the truck corrected in the spring and then coat it.

Rear wheel liners. Minimize some dirt getting into places and just looks cleaner in my opinion.

Before:

After:

Front struts came in. Ceramic coated front and rears.

Bed decals removed. I was semi torn on this because I didn’t not like them, but I think with these fender badges having the red accent around them for the “sport” edition, it looked a little busy on the side. I like the way my parents truck looks with bed decals. Can always added them back if I want.

Exhaust tip was crusty, was going to repaint it black, but essentially had to destroy it to get it off because it had welded itself to the exhaust pipe. Just bought an eBay one, looks good to me. I don’t know how far out it should stick? This looks fine to me, but maybe it needs to get pushed in further.

Sold the truck cap a few days after getting the truck. Purchased a Truxedo ProX-15 bed cover. Like that it sits a lot more flush. These tonneaus are crazy expensive for some of the nicer one. This one fit the bill being about $500.

And my ricer mod. Found these emblem decals on Etsy for $20, figured for that little it was worth a chance. I didn’t dislike the blue oval, but wanted to see what it would like in this color rendition. I like it, but don’t love it. Real way to do it would be to pull them out and disassemble the badges and paint them. They’ll do for now.

Suspension installed hopefully soon. Just waiting on the wheels to come in, was approved for sponsorship on these new to market wheels. Went a little outside my normal comfort zone on the color, but I think it will come together nicely.