Boris3 said:

That must have been one fat squirrel!!! 

Speeds may have been a factor as well

Car has been washed, gassed up with stabil and in it's spot for the long hibernation. Mirrors are tucked, it's official!

YoungCR said:

Very cool! Never thought I’d see Dibond used on a car lol. Did the paint hold well to the edge? 

It is hit or miss to be honest. It will definitely need to be re-prepped and painted at some point. Kinda testing it this summer to see how well it handles the rock chips and such, then will see what it needs over winter.

Once I had it where I thought looked good, I went to a local sign shop in New Berlin and had them cut me some rough sized aluminum composite. Also know as poly-metal. It's two very thin sheets of aluminum with composite plastic sandwich led between them. Super lightweight yet strong and sturdy.

I traced out the templates and cut the pieces out of the poly-metal with an oscillating tool.

I used the stock mounting screw locations to also secure the splitter pieces which worked out well. Sanded them down and gave em a coat of semi gloss black paint and done. 

Paint isn't perfect as the coating on the poly-metal was still uneven even after sanding. Good part is I can always unbolt it, sand again and repaint down the road. 

I think it turned out nice. The subtle look goes well with the car I think. On to the next project, whatever that may be.

I think it turned out pretty awesome. The angle of the last pic was off since I was on a step stool with car on the lift, lol. But it's centered over the strut and hole is big enough to fit your hand in and adjust comfortably. 

The cap snaps in snug and pry's off with a small amount of force, which is perfect. I'm happy with it.

Took a chance to design some 3d printed access caps that can be installed in the carpet humps that cover the strut tops. Will allow dampening adjustments for coilovers or regular access to the strut tops for replacements or repairs without the need to remove the interior. 

First go around was a little ambitious with a threaded cap into a flange set that sandwiches the carpet for mounting.

Got the opinion of a true mechanical engineer (aka Brian) who gave me the idea of making it a press fit with oring instead of threads. Made designing and printing easier. Also added a slot on the side for a flat head screwdriver to pry cap off when removing. Seems to work pretty well. 

Next up is test fitting to the carpet and if all is good, getting these printed in ABS for longevity and heat resistance.

Also started repairing the new door panels I picked up. The mounts tend to tear away from the press board material that the panels are made out of. So I got some epoxy, 3d printed some new ABS mounts and secured them back on. 

Just gotta do the same with the one map pocket that got detached and I can move onto customizing the door panel inserts to walnut brown for my interior color scheme.

Checked the fuses, radio fuse was blown. Good, easy fix. Nope wasn't the issue although probably part of it. Did some googling and came up with the rheostat inside the headlight switch that dims the dash lights easily fry apparently. 

One fix is jumpering some pins in the headlight switch to bypass the rheostat. Tried that and I was able to turn the entire car on by pulling the headlight knob out. Ummm, no thanks! Reversed that.

Another fix is completely disassembling the headlight switch to solder the broken area and everything should work as normal. Let's give it a try!

Disassembled the switch

Found the spot on the rheostat that fried. Hard to see but it's the very first coil of the spring behind the silver tab.

Soldering this small is nearly impossible for my giant solder gun, so big blob it is. 

I tested the continuity between the end of the tab and the other end of the coil spring wire. Looks good to me. 

Threw it back together and into the car. All works as it should! Sorry no pics of that yet. Glad I was able to save some cash as every part of this car seems to be priced like gold. We shall see how long it lasts now.