The One That Didn't Get Away [100K Mile E30 325is]
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I wouldn't be shocked if it was never level from the factory. You might be attempting a level of exactness and execution that BMW never meant to achieve. God speed.
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I wouldn't be shocked if it was never level from the factory. You might be attempting a level of exactness and execution that BMW never meant to achieve. God speed.
I was gonna say if the paint hasn’t been damaged around the mounts then it’s always been that way or moved slightly.
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I was gonna say if the paint hasn’t been damaged around the mounts then it’s always been that way or moved slightly.
Doesn't look like it has. I'll have to give it a try.
*Edit; I do not have slots. I have like a pirate hook looking deal on the lower bolt.
Pic from tonight.
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I know nothing about photography but Mikes comments reminded me of this
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Hopefully this doesn't come off as me sounding like a dick...
The framing is excellent, but I would have been more aggressive with the crop. Lots of space around the edges that isn't doing much.
I agree that cropping it frames it in a better sense, but it also feels more closed in. Wanted the surrounding area and the car to almost be equal in the focal points of the image.
Here's another from last night. This is pretty good area for pictures actually.
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Test fitting the wheels with different spacer sizes.
Stock:
5mm Spacer:
10mm Spacers:
Didn't realize how much rear camber I had. Guess that's why people get the adjustable subframes.
Should clarify, I am using the two 5mm spacers from either front wheels to test this. Obviously I would like to run a 10mm spacer, but the fenders would need to be rolled, possibly even pulled. Also the fact that I would need the spacers to have the wheel hub bore on the wheel side and the hub bore on the hub side. I'm at the end of hub lip room to fit my hub adapters on. The 5mm spacer I would probably need to roll the fender a little to be safe but would probably be the best bet.
But might hold off, considering selling these wheels and buying some other ones that are 25mm offset, so would need a 10mm spacer to get the same effect.
Does anyone know if there was ever a reasoning for only half of the rear fender being rolled from factory?
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Damn, 9 year old tires!?!?
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Damn, 9 year old tires!?!?
Yep, they are @GunMetalGrey's from a long time ago. I don't think they have many miles on them, plenty of tread, and think they were always stored in a climate controlled area. I don't push the car and never drive in the rain, but they do need to be changed soon. I was thinking about selling these wheels to change it up and would buy Toyo R1R's as replacments tires as they are one of the few tires that are offered in 225/45/16, which I want to stick with.
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Damn, 9 year old tires!?!?
This guy date codes.
perfect for a burnout video that could be uploaded to youtube and posted to this thread
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Yep, they are @GunMetalGrey's from a long time ago. I don't think they have many miles on them, plenty of tread, and think they were always stored in a climate controlled area. I don't push the car and never drive in the rain, but they do need to be changed soon. I was thinking about selling these wheels to change it up and would buy Toyo R1R's as replacments tires as they are one of the few tires that are offered in 225/45/16, which I want to stick with.
What wheels are you thinking? I might've missed it.
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What wheels are you thinking? I might've missed it.
These ones. Real RS’s aren’t in the budget and seem to be impossible to find in 16” 4x100. Want to give the mesh look a go as they seem like the perfect wheels for the E30 and I think this darker bronze color would contrast well with the red of the car. However, might not be able to do this color. Only seen this color in 25mm offset and with my spacer testing today, I don’t think I can do more than a 5mm spacer to be able to run the hubcentric rings.
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Doesnt Wibimmers have a bad history of Red E30s attempting to do a burnout and broken axles?
Yikes
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I'm unfamiliar with who this is referencing.
But I am a pussy so I don't do burnouts. Have mechanical empathy.
I broke an axle like 4ish years ago at the last Wibimmers meet I ever attended. Can’t go back to one, it’s bad luck now
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I broke an axle like 4ish years ago at the last Wibimmers meet I ever attended. Can’t go back to one, it’s bad luck now
I take the blame. I was bad luck that day and no car has a very fun time propelling my large frame around.
There seems to be some issues with the site this morning. the burnout video @SteelBlue posted isnt working or maybe some mods deleted it or something because I dont see it.
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Does anyone know if there was ever a reasoning for only half of the rear fender being rolled from factory?
In my opinion the 5mm spacer fits the best, you'd have to smash the fenders to not rub with that 10mm fitment. I was wondering the same thing when I rolled mine, my guess is that they are rolled in the back half because of how the car narrows slightly toward the rear? That or they just knew we all were going to run some meaty fitment down the road and did us a solid by doing half the work ahead of time.
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Looks good with the spacers, 5mm seems to both accomplish safe fitment as well as scene points.
I am slightly confused though as I had to roll the fenders to get those rears to not rub, and I was also running a 16x8 +20. -
I apologize for the wall of text, I start writing updates about this car and next thing I know it's an essay.
Brought the car back over to Auto Clinic as I had noticed one of the sway bar bushing mount tabs had not been put back into the subframe when they had done the oil pan. I asked if he could do a "PPI" of the car while he was at it. Didn't have to pay for it, but he went over the whole car to essentially give me a break down of things that needed attention right away and things that could maybe wait. Things that needed attention right away, high and low pressure power steering lines from reservoir to pump. I purchased the parts and they did the labor. One reason for this, no space at the shop to do any work...two, car was already there, labor was cheap enough, why not. Also had them replace the reservoir cap and gasket as they were like $5 for both parts. Should take care of my usual drip spots in the garage as I guess these lines were on their last legs. Was trying to source this leak but had a hard time determining the source as they fluid would change colors as it dripped through the dirt and grime on the car.
Things that can wait:
Diff refresh. Needs new output and input shaft seals. Pretty gunky around each of these spots, but it's not anything serious. Asked what this would cost and figured it would be something I could do this winter on my own.
Trans refresh. Input selector shaft seal seems to be the main culprit of this one by my estimation. Whenever it would get pulled, I'd have a complete reseal done in addition to a complete shifter refresh. As well as a rear main seal replacement and anything else that could be taken care of while doing this. I don't want to pay for this to be done, but I'm likely going to have storage unit, don't have a trans dolly, and pulling the trans in the car is just a bitch. Since I don't plan on pulling the motor soon, likely the route I'll have to go.
Exhaust. After the resonator, there are two flanges on the stock exhaust where it meets the axle back portion, one of these is cracked in half. I have a slight exhaust leak, can't smell anything, no obvious leaking sounds, but it's kind of apparent when I drive past a wall or something where I can hear the echo. I'm fine leaving this for now as my plan is to replace the whole exhaust, maybe next spring. Ireland Engineering long tube headers, Vibrant resonator and muffler. Have the same guy that fabbed my S52 exhaust do this one for the M20.
I think the guys at the shop like that I'm taking on ownership of this car because this was in my passenger seat when I picked the car today.
I also got to grab a bunch of these PCA magazines from their lobby.
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