http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j292/alwaysoffboost/?action=view&current=MVI_0774.mp4

Bassboy3313 said:

Ffffffffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!!!!!!!!!!

get your butt off the computer and do your homework so we can wrench on your car this weekend

DeathByNissan55 said:

Yey, alright my Datsun vs your bimmer, let's do this !

Just dont blow the welds on your intake manifold.

I will probably put the hood back on tonight so I can start driving it to work tomorrow.

You should rock it without the hood for awhile to show that thang off!!

Now you just gotta get to a damn meet!

The car is AWESOME! I feel like a man now that my man-pedal swap is complete. Another automatic E30 off the road.

Everything looks and feels and drives perfect! Just need to go back out, clean up the shop and check for leaks.

Since the fuel rail inlet is nearest cylinder 1, cylinder 6 will have the greatest pressure drop and in theory will risk running the leanest. It is also just downstream of the stock H pipe where the factory O2 sensor reads from. The geometry change will help promote a little turbulence for more complete measurement and may get a whiff of the front bank of 3 cylinders in between pressure pulses. In a perfect world (when I build a fancy exhaust system) the wideband would be reading all 6 cylinders from an X or H pipe but I think the positioning is pretty optimal for the factory downpipe.

I painted the exhaust and let it molest a corrugated drain pipe for a bit and packed it up to get welded.

Still looking forward to having the project complete this Saturday.

Bassboy3313 was helping me again this weekend (couldn't have made such progress without him, he has been a HUGE help).

He was connecting hoses and wires in the engine bay while I was adding fluids, connecting the clutch line, mounting the shifter, the power steering pump and lines. We installed the new driveshaft, the exhaust heat shields, the M42 radiator, then I realized I got the wrong hose splice piece to make the M42 radiator work so we had to make a trip to the store. My father-in-law insisted that we take his 335i which caused us to arrive at the store much faster than we should have

We then realized that another hose needed a splice and had to make yet another trip. I think if we didn't have the 2 unexpected trips to the store we would have finished it all in time on Saturday but the extra few days of downtime allows me to get the wideband bung welded in so im ready to rock for this coming Saturday.

The good news is that the car fired right up once everything was connected so I can sleep well at night knowing that I didnt kink any wires too badly or get anything mixed up

What's left:

-Install hood

-Bleed brakes + clutch

-Bleed cooling system

-Install front wheels

-Install drivers headlights+grille

-Put interior together

-Mount exhaust

spent a good 10 hours on the car today.

We installed a new steering flex disk and got the steering linkages all put back together. Installed new grommets on the brake fluid res. POR15'd the muffler brackets and drilled out the broken stud on one of them. Changed the rear main seal, installed the new oil pan with baffle and windage tray. The gaskets were being stupid so I am just running RTV and praying that it doesn't leak. The lightened flywheel, new clutch and pressure plate went on and then of course the transmission. Then the engine and trans went in the car.

I got my new driveshaft this week. I did notice a hose that needs replacing so I need to get that, connect everything , add fluids, bleed brakes clutch and coolant, and get the M42 radiator to fit. I still need to weld a new bung for the wideband before the exhaust goes in.

I expect to be driving the car next weekend !

I finished the input and output seals on the transmission and installed the last few bits to refresh the shift linkage such as a new shifter bearing cup and selector rod joint.

I inspected the timing belt, water pump, cap and rotor to see how they are holding up after 10k and to make sure no oil was on the belt from a slow mystery oil leak. The cap and rotor looked worn pretty badly for only 10k. The belt was fine. I took the time to install the factory clips and retainer for the CPS and oil pressure sender wires that run through the pulleys and installed a bunch of other broken OEM clips and pieces. I soldered the oil pressure sender wire because it was taped together.

I installed a new high pressure hose on my steering rack since the one I had before was not the right hose (much too long).

I then changed a few of the coolant hoses that I hadn't changed before, and cleaned up the work area a bit.