'08 535xi Coolant light on and running very rough & NOT DRIVEABLE
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I still am confused about why the coolant light was on (no overheat). There wasn't any coolant on the ground or a leak. The level in the expansion tank was at the lower ball which is the minimum. Besides running very rough out of nowhere it would barely idle and was stalling. The mechanic said it started for him (naturally!) and it ran so he drove it around for about 8mi. So what does the coolant light have to do with the fuel injector problem, or doesn't it?
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what light came on?
this one?^ means low coolant
or
this one?^ means overheating
^(red color of this light means way overheated)
that could be a water pump on its way out.(all to common on the n5x motors..)
it is normal to top of a car every year or two...but it shouldn't need frequent fill ups on coolant.
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The coolant light and after it first came on I checked the level in the expansion tank (engine was cold-car had been in garage 24hrs prior). The bobber's top ball was not quite level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank (indicating that it was not quite at the minimum level that it should be). So I added 50/50 up to the max indicator (where the lower ball on the bobber is level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank opening). Then I started it and it was a rough cold start and everything was fine for a few days. I went to start it after it had been in the garage for 24hrs and was even more rough and no sooner than I was 40ft away from the garage the coolant light came on and it was barely idling and stalled. So I got it back to the driveway, which was difficult and it was barely idling. Since the engine was cold I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank and it was at the max. The coolant was still on. There was no visible leak on the garage floor or anywhere under the hood all around the expansion tank and hoses..etc.
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The coolant light and after it first came on I checked the level in the expansion tank (engine was cold-car had been in garage 24hrs prior). The bobber's top ball was not quite level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank (indicating that it was not quite at the minimum level that it should be). So I added 50/50 up to the max indicator (where the lower ball on the bobber is level with the top of the opening of the expansion tank opening). Then I started it and it was a rough cold start and everything was fine for a few days. I went to start it after it had been in the garage for 24hrs and was even more rough and no sooner than I was 40ft away from the garage the coolant light came on and it was barely idling and stalled. So I got it back to the driveway, which was difficult and it was barely idling. Since the engine was cold I checked the coolant level in the expansion tank and it was at the max. The coolant was still on. There was no visible leak on the garage floor or anywhere under the hood all around the expansion tank and hoses..etc.
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My apologies, somehow the beginning of my last post is missing. To clear up any confusion I started with this:
"I started the car and it was a bit rough and 1/4 mi away from home the coolant light came on so I turned around and came right back home. I parked it in the garage where it is level."
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The top light in my post was on? If its full could be a bad coolant level sender, as long as ita full and no overheat id bet its alright. Let me know about the recall and if you need me to install injectors for you,
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The top light in my post was on? If its full could be a bad coolant level sender, as long as ita full and no overheat id bet its alright. Let me know about the recall and if you need me to install injectors for you,
Do you have the software to run codes and diagnose the issue? As it could be a HDP that is causing the misfires also. What about initializing the new injectors? DO you have oem bmw sftware to do this?
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Yep top light. Is it easy to check that sender? Would it have come up as a fault and show on the BMW OBD reader/tool/apparatus/thingy? The guy did a scan I'm pretty sure. We're picking up the car in a few hrs so I'll hear it all straight from the horses mouth. Talk soon.
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Hit up Bobdudeman. He can do this at probably a better price. Check out his threads in services. He does great work. And is a n54 owner himself. He can also blast your intake.
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Do you have the software to run codes and diagnose the issue? As it could be a HDP that is causing the misfires also. What about initializing the new injectors? DO you have oem bmw sftware to do this?
I was planning on scanning and trouble shooting it myself to find the issues if there are others
And yes, i have the software to code the tolerance numbers to the dme
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Yep top light. Is it easy to check that sender? Would it have come up as a fault and show on the BMW OBD reader/tool/apparatus/thingy? The guy did a scan I'm pretty sure. We're picking up the car in a few hrs so I'll hear it all straight from the horses mouth. Talk soon.
Its likely a on/off sensor, two wire, it would be easy to check, and it might not show up on a scanner
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