http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/3942623212.html

But for you lazy folk I'll paste the text:

1992 BMW 318is

2-door coupe, E36 body style
- 1.8L Inline 4, 5 speed manual transmission
- 165xxx miles
- Sterling Silver Metallic/Clear Coat paint
- Gray cloth interior
- Pass through rear seats
- Original engine/transmission/differential
- Oil Changed every 3,000miles/6months
- FULL service history from my ownership, some records from previous owners
- Body is solid with no serious rust
- Regularly average 30+ mpg per tank
- Interior 9/10
- Exterior 7/10
- Extremely reliable
- Enthusiast owned

I had no intentions of selling this car for a long time but I am buying another bimmer and do not have the space for two. I have invested well over 2k in parts to make this car as perfect as possible and I have saved every receipt and invoice. It is a very good candidate for a swap as well.

Maintenance in the last 2 years/20k miles (In no particular order, possibly forgetting something as well):

- Power Steering return line
- Trans ouput seal
- Flex disk/guibo
- Oil Pan gasket
- Shift shaft input seal
- Both differential output seals
- Both front control arms (inner and outer ball joints), replaced with Meyle HD with solid metal ball joints
- Powerflex street polyurethane front control arm bushings
- Radiator
- Water Pump (with cast metal impeller)
- Thermostat
- Upper and lower radiator hose
- Expansion tank 
- Fan clutch
- Fresh BMW coolant
- All cooling system gaskets
- All 3 belts on front of motor
- intake boot
- Bosch spark plugs
- New Fog light bulbs
- Air Filter
- Cabin air filter
- Powerflex rear trailing arm bushings
- Rear shock mounts (Meyle HD upgraded mounts)
- Rear shock mount reinforcements
- Oil changed every 3,000 miles/6 months with Castrol GTX (filter replaced every time)
- Clutch slave cylinder
- Fuel line between hard line and motor

Parts included but not installed
- Rear brake dust shields (left and right)
- Parking brake springs and hardware
- Reverse Light switch
- Rear 3.45 differential (open) with less than 100k
- Two output shafts with less than 100k
- Set of 4 near perfect 15" BMW bottle cap wheels with old tires

Upgrades:
- Solid metal ball joints in front control arms
- Heavy duty rear shock mounts and reinforcement plates
- Polyurethane rear trailing arm bushings
- Polyurethane front control arm bushings
- 17 inch Mille Miglia MM-11 wheels with low profile tires
- Memphis Audio 3-way 6x9 rear speakers (rear decklid adapters so they are hidden, no cutting for install)
- Pioneer tweeters
- Alpine Head unit
- Headliner recovered in matching gray suede as well as door panel inserts
- Custom door panels (I have the originals, they just need to be refurbished)

All parts installed are either BMW or other OEM equivalent

Cons:

- Needs a windshield
- AC does not work, may only need a recharge

I also have a set of four Blizzak snow tires on 15 inch steel wheels that I could include for a bit extra since they need to be shipped from Pennsylvania. 

I am asking $3300 but am willing to negotiate

Please email or call or text 414-7zero4-00two5 for any questions or picture requests

What do you guys think? Any input is appreciated

Earl said:

How much will you be asking for it?

I had it advertised for about 2900 last summer without the 17's and with a few problems that I have since corrected and I had a bit of interest but I decided to keep it. Since then I have done a decent amount of maintenance and improvements. There really aren't many 318's around in good shape for sale so I don't know If I am being reasonable or total pie in the sky when I say maybe $3500 (asking price) with everything including all the extra parts/sets of wheels/bentley manual/etc. I am definitely willing to negotiate as I would rather it go to a good home. I am unsure as of right now if I will actually sell it, but I will try and make a decision this week.

jc43089 said:

When you put the plastic skirts on do the jacking holes line up with the ones in the body? I have a 94 and might put some on. Just curious because bavauto sells some plastic skirts but warns that the holes will not line up.

They do, mine lined up perfectly. I don't know why they told you otherwise. The post 95 cars that came with the skirts from the factory are the same underneath, they just have holes drilled into the body to mount the skirts. My skirts are OEM so there might be a difference if the bavauto ones are aftermarket so I would ask why they say that

jc43089 said:

When you put the plastic skirts on do the jacking holes line up with the ones in the body? I have a 94 and might put some on. Just curious because bavauto sells some plastic skirts but warns that the holes will not line up.

They do, mine lined up perfectly. I don't know why they told you otherwise. The post 95 cars that came with the skirts from the factory are the same underneath, they just have holes drilled into the body to mount the skirts. My skirts are OEM so there might be a difference if the bavauto ones are aftermarket so I would ask why they say that

Snap said:

so we aren't friends then

Nobody said we weren't friends!

m42b18 said:

Haha different car, its a white 1991 318is slick top that spent most of its life in Florida so it's basically rust free.

so we aren't friends then     

Snap said:

Well at $1300, I am practically giving it away, but I am just glad it will be going to a good home.

Haha different car, its a white 1991 318is slick top that spent most of its life in Florida so it's basically rust free.

m42b18 said:

Ok, so a really good friend of mine who has been on the fence about selling his e30 is finally selling it. The car is in really nice shape with next to no rust and a ton of maintenance done to it. The only problem is...I'd most likely need to sell the e36 to buy it as I could never afford two bimmers. What do you guys think I should do? I really love this car and don't want to sell it (I've also got way more money in it that I should), but I've always lusted after an e30 and this one is almost too nice to pass up, especially for what he wants for it. 

Well at $1300, I am practically giving it away, but I am just glad it will be going to a good home.

someone said:

very nice. 

this thing is clean!

someone said:

How did I miss this build thread? Loving it!

Thanks guys! The pictures definitely hide some things but its certainly coming along nicely in my opinion. I can't wait to lower it but unfortunately that's probably a long way off still haha

this thing is clean!

For the audio input, the car already had an XM radio reciever installed under the glovebox and I found that the connection to that could be modified a bit to accommodate a 3.5mm stereo jack. I picked up a few little adapters since I couldn't find the proper adapter I was looking for and ended up with this

I then routed the cable under the center console to the ash tray between the driver and passenger seats

I am always finding reminders if how nasty this car was before I got it, that is all dog hair. When I bought the car, the entire interior was covered in it. 

I left enough wire to be able to hold my phone when it is plugged in yet little enough that I could tuck it into the compartment in the ash tray and hide it when I wasn't using it. All in all it is pretty stealthy and works perfectly. 

I used some auto polishing compound and a microfiber pad to buff the headlights. Here is a before and after, I tried to show the difference in how well it worked

Before:

After:

suspenceful said:

I vote Plastidip them black.

How much would you want for just the wood template?

I'm thinking the same thing. 

And I'd rather not make a template out of wood since its pretty time consuming to cut, but I could make one out of a heavy cardboard or foam-core board, that way you could make a set of panels out of any material you'd like. It would be pretty sweet to see them made out of aluminum or something. And I have no idea what I would want for a template, PM me an offer and we can go from there

m42b18 said:

Awesome. After having a number of things not line up on my car because it is a '92 I can never be too sure anymore. 

The reason I ask is because I have seen people do these without needing to cut the hole for the window motors. I just figured mine stuck out farther, but I guess they just bent the panel around them or something (which I wouldn't do, I feel like that could cause problems). On mine, the board is 1/4" thick and then the motor sticks out maybe another 1/4", the MDF is surprisingly rigid for the size of the panel so bending it around would be a pain 

On another note, should I paint/plastidip the handles black? I feel like they stick out (in a bad way) because they are a brushed silver right now

I vote Plastidip them black.

How much would you want for just the wood template?

Earl said:

All coupe door panels are the same.

Awesome. After having a number of things not line up on my car because it is a '92 I can never be too sure anymore. 

The reason I ask is because I have seen people do these without needing to cut the hole for the window motors. I just figured mine stuck out farther, but I guess they just bent the panel around them or something (which I wouldn't do, I feel like that could cause problems). On mine, the board is 1/4" thick and then the motor sticks out maybe another 1/4", the MDF is surprisingly rigid for the size of the panel so bending it around would be a pain 

On another note, should I paint/plastidip the handles black? I feel like they stick out (in a bad way) because they are a brushed silver right now

m42b18 said:

Thanks! And I'd think about it actually, assuming the doors are set up the same between years I could make a template or something (for a coupe) and then making more sets would be fairly straightforward 

If anyone knows the answer to this... mine is a '96. I don't see why they would be different.